Charles Lea's Wine List

Wines I Like - Autumn to Winter

At last a new version of this to match the season. I'm in Beaune for the (rainy late October) weekend, having failed to fit all the appointments I needed to do into one week. So after a three and a half hour walk from my hotel round the top of the Montagne de Beaune and back I feel justified in thinking that's enough rain for today. The vineyards still have some great autumn colour, but they are beginning to look a little bedraggled.

In this list you will find many of the wines we considered for inclusion in the mixed red Rhone and Italian cases which we've recently advertised. Both produce lots of perfect wines for this time of year, but of course I'm in Burgundy, and while I know some people despair of ever being able to afford to drink Burgundy again, there are some real treats which should not be ignored at the more affordable end of the price range. On Friday I visited Philippe Huguenot and Maxime and Romain Derey in Marsannay, and was again struck by the value these two domaines offer, from the Derey's Bourgognes which come from the vineyards which stretch up into the suburbs of Dijon, to the best vineyards of Marsannay and Fixin.

Philippe reminded me that when the appellations were established in 1936, Marsannay said 'non merci' - the growers there were enjoying their proximity to the market of Dijon, and also to Dijon station, so that their wines were easily distributed to the restaurants of Paris, and they felt no need of appellations. In the end they did not get the appellation Marsannay until 1987, so it's no wonder they slipped back in the pecking order.

Now plans are afoot for Premiers Crus in Marsannay as early as 2026, so you can expect Marsannay to begin to re-establish its old position. Take advantage of the relative cheapness now. Philippe's Cote de Nuits Villages 'La Créole' also comes to an end, promoted to Fixin (as it should have been at the original classification) - buy it at this bargain price now.

In the evening at dinner I tried three different Bourgogne Rouges which served as a reminder that there's so much joy to be found even in the young vintages sold here (22s, 23s and good grief 24s). We are privileged we are in the UK to be able to buy 2020s in all these Marsannays - it's a full-bodied vintage, so perfect for this time of year.

Then of course there's claret, and some really great odds and ends from elsewhere, but I'm in danger of recommending the entire list - which of course I do. Experiment, experiment, experiment, it's the fun of discovery and a big part of the fun of wine. Have fun!

Charles Lea
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