Gamay

A grape variety reviled in most of Burgundy, but revered in Beaujolais (which is only technically part of Burgundy anyway). The grape variety (probably) originated in the village of Gamay in the Côte de Beaune but fell foul of the Dukes of Burgundy who outlawed it in favour of the noble Pinot Noir. Small pockets hang on in Burgundy proper – mostly for the production of the instantly forgettable Bourgogne Passe-tout-Grains – it is grown in the Loire and the Mâconnais, and in spots in the New World, but it only rises to majesty and importance in the granite hills of Beaujolais. From the lightest and fluffiest simple Beaujolais to some really quite classy, and often surprisingly age-worthy, ‘cru’ wines, Beaujolais Gamay can be quite a sensation with lifted bright fruit. Younger, simpler Gamays may be drunk lightly chilled for maximum refreshment, whilst grander examples take on a the silky polish almost akin to Pinot Noir. Perhaps a little debased by the Nouveau phenomenon, Gamay is slowly creeping back into fashion as the world seeks a lighter style of red wine.