Mâconnais

Domaine Daniel Barraud

Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank. In a recent tasting conducted by Bourgogne Aujourd'hui magazine of wines from the 2001 and 2006 vintages, and up against some Côte d'Or Premiers crus, Daniel's 'En Buland' achieved one first and one second place overall, reinforcing our long-held belief that these wines are amongst the top whites in Burgundy, and not just the Maconnais.

(Sold under the name of Daniel's son, Julien). This is the only one of Daniel's wines which sees no barrique, being aged in a combination of stainless steel and large foudres. Bright and breezy, fresh ripe fruit with a confident pace and feel.

Appetising sweet-edged fruit, ripe with a sappy texture. Really quite full and fat, but also poised and precise.

Very pure, appealing streamlined fruit, with something that recalls polished leather, there's slickness allied with a strength of texture and length.

Attractive pear and citrus fruit, delicately nuanced and with a supple, softly-flowing feel.

Undoubtedly richly oaky, but the oak is all well-combined and merely brings out the emphatic personality of this strikingly ripe and forward wine. Les Pommards has always done this - round and gloriously full.

At once densely rich and still balanced, fresh, pure, long. Old vines intensity and textural richness allied to a deep but rocky soil giving plenty of mineral drive. All in balance and very long.

Intense, still tightly-wound, very mineral (as the name implies). Very energy-filled and directed, the rapier amongst these old-vine cuvées.

Almost like the Verchère amplified, but with perhaps even greater sense of minerality. Ripe and even sun-dried fruit aromas along with stones and cool river freshness. Beautiful delicacy as well as amazing richness. Gorgeous.

The sheer size of this wine is there as usual, it's a big wine, and yet... it seems surprisingly even more mineral than les Crays this year, with a directed force and which nevertheless floats across the palate rather than pile-driving its way. Balanced and pure and unbelievably long.