Domaine Laurent Martray

France, Beaujolais

It is a great relief when you eventually track down the bubbly and charming Laurent Martray at his home down a muddy track just over the crest of the hill of Combillaty. He only produces from 9 hectares of vines, half of which he owns, and half he has been renting and working as his own for more than 12 years. They are all in the top Brouilly terroir of Combillaty. He normally produces about 700 cases in total. The Vieilles Vignes is aged in large oak 'foudres'. The combination of old vines and great winemaking makes Laurent Martray less vintage dependent than many Beaujolais producers. His wines have a fabulous depth of fruit with unusual purity and elegance - very impressive stuff.