CHÂTEAU TROPLONG MONDOT

A vintage where the best wines are all about nuance and understated charm, here you get plenty of grilled sandalwood, charcoal, campfire smoke. Well built if a little constricted in its tannic hold, and the oak dominance becomes clear as you head through the palate, with things closing down on the finish. Give it time to open, and allow the cassis, tar and black truffle to arrive, clearly settling in for the long haul. No question that Troplong in those days turned Merlot into a Cabernet-style powerhouse, and this character is still clear two decades after bottling. Has impact, with estate but not vintage signature, I would wait a little longer before drinking, or give it a long time in a carafe. 100% new oak, Michel Rolland consultant. Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 91 Jane Anson, Decanter (Jul 2022)

The 2001 Troplong Mondot, which is almost entirely Merlot, has a little more amplitude and personality on the nose than the previous vintage, offering a mélange of red and black fruit, blood orange and a sprinkling of white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity. It tightens up in the glass, turning slightly powdery in texture, and delivers dark cherries, sloe and fig with good persistence. Like the 2000, this is quite precocious and forward, but it shows more tension and complexity toward the finish. Still solid after two decades, this should be decanted or left for another 5­–7 years in bottle. Drinking range: 2023 - 2043 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Sept 2021)

This estate continues to merit substantial praise. Let's hope in the upcoming revised Classification of the Wines of St.-Emilion, Troplong Mondot merits elevation to Premier Grand Cru Classe, which it has deserved for some time. Not far off the pace of the spectacular 2000, the 2001 is performing even better from bottle than it was from cask. A gorgeous perfume of plum jam, creme de cassis, flowers, licorice, black fruits, a hint of graphite, and well-integrated wood notes is followed by a medium to full-bodied St.-Emilion with superb texture, great flavor purity, and tremendous harmony as well as elegance. Remarkably approachable despite its impressive concentration and well-concealed tannin, this is a beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2017. Rating: 93 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (Mar 2005)