BOLLINGER

2002 RD Extra Brut Champagne Bollinger

Grapes Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Champagne
ABV 12%

Tasted at Bollinger in March 2014 just before the official first release - this was a real treat. Fresh, driven and powerfully mineral - tasting young, despite its fabulous age this will no doubt settle down in 6 months or so to be a wonderful, intense yet balanced Champagne. So many layers of flavour are just bursting to unleash themselves and the evolution of this magnificent vintage is clear to see. Having tasted older vintages of this I was expecting a more savoury, 'mushroomy' character but was pleasantly surprised by the bright fruit and lovely notes of uncooked brioche dough. Very special stuff. L&S (Mar 2014)


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("R.D." stands for recently disgorged; this starts as a Grand Année and is allowed to mature for an extra 8 to 20 years, sometimes more, though in the case of the 2002 it was disgorged in October 2013; 60% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay). Fully mature aromas are comprised by really lovely brioche, citrus and baked apple nuances. There is a notably refined bead to the mousse that is dense yet a little aeration allows the beautifully delineated yet subtly shaded full-bodied flavors to shine before culminating in a beautifully long, complex, intensely yeasty and classy finish. As the R.D. almost always is, this is full-flavored yet it arguably drinks like a blanc de blancs because of its purity and subtlety. In a word this is gorgeous. Note that I have experienced some bottle variation with some bottles seeming to be distinctly more youthful than others. Drinking range: 2020 - Rating: 94+ Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2020)

The most remarkable thing about the 2002 Extra Brut R.D. is how tense and structured it is. Despite having been disgorged over two years ago, the 2002 is very much tightly wound. After several hours, the power and resonance of the vintage start to come through, along with the natural richness of Pinot from Aÿ. Whereas most 2002 Champagnes are quite ripe in profile, the 2002 R.D. has plenty of depth, but it is depth through concentration as opposed to elevated ripeness. The low dosage style further adds to that sensation. Hints of chamomile, sage, dried flower and red fruits emerge over time, but only with reluctance. I would prefer to cellar the 2002 for at least a few years. If that is not possible, readers should open the wine at least a few hours in advance. Even so, the 2002's best drinking lies somewhere in the future. My sense is that the 2002 will be at its best between the ages of 20 and 30. Disgorged: September 11, 2015. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 95 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)

A fine example of power married to elegance, this is impeccably balanced, with a mouth-watering palate of crème de cassis, toasted brioche, fleur de sel and crystalized honey flavors. The rich, smoky underpinning is carried on a finely detailed bead. Disgorged March 2014. Drinking range: 2014 - 2030 Rating: 97 The Wine Spectator, www.winespectator.com (May 2017)

Champagne Bollinger

Jacques Bollinger, who was born at Ellwanger in the Kingdom of Wurtemberg, came to Champagne in 1822. In 1829, together with Hennequin de Villermont and Paul Levieux Renaudin, he founded the Champagne House of Bollinger Renaudin at Ay. The Bollinger family have managed the House ever since. Despite Paul Renaudin dying without issue, his name remained on the label until the 1960's. Pehaps the most famous member of the Bollinger family was "Lilly" Bollinger who married Jacques' great grandson and took over the Company when he died in 1941. She is responsible for the famous quote "I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty" Except in the very best vintages, only the first pressings are used (the rest being sold off) and Bollinger still carry out first fermentations in oak. Bollinger own around 160ha of vineyard which account for about 60% of their requirements. They are planted to about 60% Pinot Noir.

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