CHÂTEAU CLIMENS

2007 1er Cru Classé Barsac

Origin France, Bordeaux
Village Barsac
Classification 1er Cru Classé
ABV 13%

As one does I tasted at least nine different casks picked on different days and at different times. Each in their own way was very exciting, all had wonderful fragrance some had power and some had more racy elegance. I finished up with what Bérénice felt might be a possible blend although it is in her view too early to finalise. It was lovely; the complexity of candied peel and rich apricot underpinned by fragrant lemon a wine with great length of flavour. 2016-35 Rating: 92-96 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk (Dec 2013)


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Rating: 98-100 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com

Bérénice Lurton refuses to submit a sample of a wine which is not the final blend, so I tasted nine different elements: two from the first trie or selection, three from the second trie, one third trie, one mixed assemblage from the first and third pickings, and one from the first and fourth. The impression was of an incredible mosaic of contrasting yet complementary elements, combining great concentration (mostly wonderfully perfumed) with beautifully unctuous textures and complex fruit flavours, often very honeyed; all marked by a glorious freshness and purity. Residual sugar levels are around 150g at present. It is hard to imagine much better wine than this. Rating: ***** 19.5 www.decanter.com

As usual, no finished blend of this wine was available for tasting. Instead we tasted five different possible ingredients, and this year a first possible pre-assemblage blend - one of 39 pre-assemblages. It is truly sobering to think how much wine must be expectorated before Bérénice Lurton and her team are happy to bottle a final blend. The most thrilling was a sample picked on 17 Oct as part of the relatively big second trie, or passage through the vineyard. It had a heady aroma of hazelnuts and was amazingly substantial in terms of both body and richness, the keynote of the best 2007 Sauternes. A slightly dry finish (something evident on the Yquem 2007 too) but so fascinating in terms of its array of elements. The wines from the first trie were much lighter and simpler but had great clarity and freshness while the third trie?s produce seemed lighter than the second too. But overall, this should be a very promising year for Climens. 2018-35 Rating: 18 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com

Château Climens

Barsac Premier Cru 1855 The name "Climens" appears to be derived from a local dialect word meaning unfertile land. It is one of the two Premier Cru properties in Barsac (the other being Château Coutet), although the golden age for Climens came later after Henri Gounouilhou bought the estate in 1885, guiding it through phlloxera and oidium, managing to expand the vineyards and, on occasions, rivalling even Château d'Yquem. In 1971, Château Climens was purchased by the great Lucien Lurton and is now run by his daughter Bérénice. The 30ha of vineyard are planted entirely with Semillon. The yield for the Grand Vin is very low, averaging 7hl/ha. The grapes are fermented in small barrels (a third new each year) and aged for 20 to 24 months before release.

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