CLOS DES LAMBRAYS

2008 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Morey Saint Denis
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 14%
Vineyard Clos des Lambrays

Thierry likens his 2008 to the 1990. A total of 34 hectolitres of rosé was made from the grapes rejected on the sorting table, so the final quanitity is quite small. In need of a racking when I tasted, there is good cherry fruit here, but rather masked by a nettley tang. Palate ripe, suave, taut attack and slight asperity at the edges, but still vinous and complete and long, and the edges will be rubbed off with the final months of élevage. L&S (Dec 2009)


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Medium red. Almost a confectionery sweetness to the aromas of black cherry, cassis and dried flowers. Fat, sweet, lush and fine-grained; this really fills the mouth with perfume. The berry, pepper and mineral flavors are complicated by a saline, earthy nuance. Finishes with superb breadth of fine tannins and excellent persistence. When I asked Brouin what would happen to the peppery acidity of 2008 with aging, he opened a bottle of the 1998 Clos des Lambrays, which showed a tannic edge but maintained a silky texture with mellow spice, truffle and molasses notes and plenty of energy for further aging. I would not have described this wine as peppery, and Brouin added that the 2008 began life with more fruit than the earlier vintage. Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Mar 2011)

This is spicy and dark on the aroma with slaty notes and freshly ground black pepper. Much more compact on the palate than the premier cru with more richness of fruit and matter. There is a mineral, herbal note. Good depth and dimension and more fruit around the core. Sappy tannins. Firm power on the finish. A big step up in quality. From 2017 Rating: 18.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Jan 2011)

Good full, deep red. Deep, sexy nose combines black raspberry, pepper, spices, flowers and pungent smoky minerality. Quite explosive and complex in the mouth, with terrific palate-staining sap and energy to its flavors of sweet red berries, pepper and minerals. Finishes with superb length and grip, and an ineffable earthy perfume of red fruits, pepper and underbrush. Interestingly, Brouin compared this wine to the 1990 "in its balance of tannin and acidity." A very promising wine in the making. Rating: 92-94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Mar 2010)

Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.

The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.

This wine isn't currently part of a mixed case, but you can always browse our full selection of mixed cases here.
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