2008 CHÂTEAU CALON SÉGUR 3ème Cru Classé Saint Estèphe

Very dark crimson. Savoury and quite complex. Dense and layered with some real integrity. Very St-Estèphe. 2018-2030   17.5

Mme Denise Capbern-Gasqueton is 85 and still very much in charge. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. A new winemaker was brought in from 2006 aiming to work on the Cabernet Sauvignon, to extend the ripening process – as he had done at Ch Margaux. They changed the team – the new head of vines is ex-Ch Margaux and another important member of the team is ex-Ch Latour. Yield was 40 hl/ha, 50% went into the grand vin. 80% new barriques. Deep crimson. Very different. Spicy sweet nose – very fluid. Quite a contrast to the austere Montrose we have just tasted! Quite rich and supple and fireworks. Round and rather glorious though not at all tarted up. Very fresh. Firm and with great spin though no compromises. Very classic. A very confident vintage for Calon-Ségur. 2018-32

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% petit verdot; a 50% selection for the grand vin; 80% new oak) Deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of blackcurrant, sweet spices and milk chocolate, nicely lifted by hints of minerals and graphite. Enters the mouth creamy and fruity, with flavors of small berries and plum, then turns somewhat tighter and distinctly minerally on the long, smooth, restrained finish. This is classic claret, a wine admirably combining grace and power, and just one of a string of very fine wines from Calon-Segur in the last ten years. Denise Capbern-Gasqueton is still very active (at 85 years of age) in the day-to-day running of the winery, helped out brilliantly by technical director and winemaker Vincent Millet, who told me that "the long autumn saved us: in 2008 we started picking the cabs on the day we had finished in 2007."   90-93/100

Based upon 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a deep garnet core. The nose has a distinct earthiness to it. Blackberry, a touch of pain grille and black pepper. A little rustic but charming. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, quite spicy and lively, blackberry, a touch of raspberry coulis and wild strawberry. Firm grip, masculine as always. Fresh with a touch of soy towards the bitter “chunky” finish. Quintessential Calon.   90-92/100

Perhaps that explains the elegant, but rich style of the 2008 Calon Segur, which is dominated more than usual by Cabernet Sauvignon. Cropped at 40 hectoliters per hectare, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. Its sweet perfume of black currants, tobacco leaf, and licorice is followed by a wine with superb purity, good freshness, and a full-bodied style with ripe tannin as well as a long finish. Somewhat reminiscent of the 1996, although this vintage carries a much higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 should be relatively approachable given the sweetness of the tannins, and will evolve for 20-25 years. Calon Segur’s harvest took place between October 1-16, not particularly late in the context of this vintage.   90-93/100

Deep purple, pure, rich and aromatic blackcurrant fruit with a touch of wild roses, extremely elegant, harmonious with immense charm and sufficient depth to last a long time. The Lafite of Saint-Estephe. Drink 2015-30.   18.5*****

Very pretty spicy aromas, with currant and blackberry. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a delicate velvety texture. Balanced and easy, with a medium finish. 80 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 percent Merlot and 2 percent Petit Verdot. This is much more Cabernet than normal.   88-91/100