POMMARD

2009 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Pommard
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13.5%
Vineyard Grand Clos des Épenots

A ruby; a big, gleaming ruby with a richness of depth and a colour that is deep and dark at the centre. Precisely-cut, flashing edges, a solid, satisfying weight. Concentrated and yet perfectly translucent, glowing, leaving a mysterious complex shadow behind. L&S (Jan 2011)


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There is a lovely depth of fruit that packs out the nose and enriches the palate. Black fruit dominates but there is enough mulberry and red cherry to give freshness and balance. The flavours linger on the finish. 2013-18 Rating: 92 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk (Dec 2013)

(from an enormous 4.8 ha parcel with vines ranging from 50 to 65 years of age). Here too there is a hint of menthol to the less elegant but more complex nose that displays a dazzling array of spice, floral, earth, underbrush and red currant aromas. There is outstanding richness to the powerful and velvet-textured big-bodied flavors brimming with ample amounts of dry extract that relegate the firm tannic spine to the background on the mouth coating and hugely long finish. This is a burly and quite serious effort that is not especially rustic though one that will require plenty of cellar time to reach its peak. 2029+ Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2012)

(from an enormous 4.8 ha parcel with vines ranging from 50 to 65 years of age). Here the nose is less elegant but more complex still with a dazzling array of spice, floral, earth, underbrush and red currant aromas that lead to rich, powerful and velvet-textured big-bodied flavors brimming with ample amounts of dry extract that relegate the firm tannic spine to the background on the mouth coating and hugely long finish. This is quite a serious effort but it’s not especially rustic and this too will require plenty of cellar time to reach its peak. 2024+ Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (May 2011)

Domaine de Courcel

One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.

The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.

The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.

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