MEURSAULT
2009 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Meursault |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Charmes |
Bright, bottled, crytalline sun. Not as fat as the Genevrieres, dryer, but more energetic, aerial and intense. Really very stony this year. Remi has made this cuvée entirely in one of his new 900 litre foudres. L&S (Jan 2011)
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The 2009 Meursault Les Charmes is the richest of these 2009s from Jobard. It boasts gorgeous depth in its radiant, expressive fruit. This is a decidedly flashy, extroverted wine endowed with tons of class and elegance. I have a slight preference for some of the more focused wines here in 2009, but there is no denying the Charmes. It is fabulous. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jan 2012)
This is quite a bit riper than the Genevrières with a layered nose of mostly yellow orchard fruit, in particular peach and apricot together with a hint of melon. There is excellent richness to the round and mouth coating medium weight flavors that possess lovely intensity and punch on the dry and well balanced finish. This delicious and classy effort should also reward 5ish years of cellar time. 2014+ Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2011)
Good pale yellow. Pure but reticent aromas of citrus oil, lemon ice and vanillin oak. Rich and sweet on entry, then powerful and a bit more aggressive in the middle, with noteworthy density and ripeness to the citrus peel and orange oil flavors. Finishes broad and long, with the slight youthful aggressiveness of the vintage. Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2011)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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