From Cigliuti's Bricco de Neive vineyard, relatively young vines on a sandy soil. Supple for Barbaresco, gorgeously gourmand and moreish, yet dryly taut and satisfying. Aged in 2000 litre slavonian oak foudres.
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The 2010 Barbaresco Vie Erte hits the palate with serious tannins and structure. Here the flavors are intense, alive and wonderfully nuanced. Dark red and black stone fruits, leather, smoke and savory herbs form an attractive tapestry of nuances in an attractive, cellar worthy Barbaresco endowed with a cool sense of tension and energy that will delight classicists
94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Oct 2014)
Cigliuti: Full Wine List and Profile
Our introduction to the wines of Cigliuti was a bottle (followed over the ensuing months by several more) of their ‘Briccoserra, a 50/50 Barbera and Nebbiolo blend, many years back in Giuseppe Turi’s restaurant ‘Enoteca Turi’. We had remained fans from a distance, and are delighted now to be able to work so closely with the family. Sisters Claudia and Silvia Cigliuti have now taken over the running of this vineyard from their father Renato. He was the first member of the family to begin bottling his own wine, back in 1964, roughly the same time as other pioneers in the region like Giacosa, but the family can trace its roots on this land back to the late eighteenth century. Most of the vineyard and the winery is on the Serraboella hill, looking over Neive from the east, and it is the Barbaresco Serraboella which is the flagship wine of the estate. This hill, composed of calcareous marl and tufa soils, gives classic wines which combine the textural finesse of clay and the length and longevity of wines from limestone. The vineyards are tended by the family, by hand, with low yields to ensure full ripeness every year.
It is often lazily asserted that if Barolo is the King of Piedmontese wines Barbaresco is the Queen; which can unfairly suggest Barbaresco as the lesser of the two - it certainly isn't - and suggest a more feminine style to Barbaresco - which is rather hard to discern in reality. It is more in the way of a dual monarchy - two Kings, or Queens if you prefer, both can be big, both can be highly seductive. This is the intense and sensual world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours. In this case we have a brace of wines from Cigliuti, wines that are surprisingly open in relative youth but offer much promise for the future; and a trio from the butch solid grippingly tannic world of Sottimano which cry out for a cool dark cellar and some patience.
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