POMMARD
2011 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Pommard |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Rugiens |
To begin with this seems almost bizarrely soft and sexy, but then the tannins kick in and the fruit bulids and intensifies. Really dense and exciting, mineral. Spicy too on the finish, and there is still a sweetness to the tannins. 'Tannins de Piedmont', says Yves. L&S (Jan 2013)
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The 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens from de Courcel shows too much stem addition on the slightly green and earthy nose. The palate is medium-bodied with rather dry tannin, lean and woody towards the charmless finish. Tasted at Flint Wines Burgundy 2011 tasting. Drinking range: 2018 - 2020 Rating: 85 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2019)
Good bright red. Complex, ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, iron, minerals, spices, pepper and truffley underbrush. The sweetest, supplest and most refined of these 2011s, offering lovely harmonious acidity to its red fruit, red licorice and mineral flavors. Really coats the mouth and vibrates on the long, firmly tannic finish, which features a late burst of ripe but lively red fruits. Winemaker Yves Confuron says the 2011s here have similar precision to the 2010s but more middle, although he believes that the wines have shut down following the September 2013 bottling. Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Mar 2014)
The nose is full of ripe fruit a mix of fleshy black and slightly fresher red. Fruit ripeness enriches the palate a lovely depth of flavour all backed by fine tannins. The finish has a bit more power and depth of flavour. 2015-22 Rating: 93 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk (Dec 2013)
Domaine de Courcel
One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.
The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
2016 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
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Thump - in contrast to the Vergers. This is immediately much firmer. Really lovely fruit, but you can sense the toast here, a good spiced edge. More darkness, black baked damson and more intense, a touch of more bitter f...(read more)
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2013 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand
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Powerful nose, and immediately appealing in the mouth. Lovely balance - a real straight-up classic - damson and cherry fruit with well-judged oak all coming together to make a very handsome fellow indeed, straight-backed...(read more)
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