CONDRIEU

Pull the cork on a bottle of 2012 Condrieu from Pierre Gaillard and what you first sense is certainly more reminiscent of Gewurztraminer than Viognier. As an entrée it serves up scents of lychee and rose petal, both of which make me think of Alsace far more than the vineyards on the steep upper slopes of the Rhône. What is perhaps more notable, and which contributes more to the pleasure of the wine, is the finely defined character these aromas have, framed as they are by hints of spring flowers and lightly mineral, flinty hints. This latter note in particular seems very classy and characterful bearing in mind that Viognier can tend towards the leaden. Not here though, and with more time in the glass it begins to show aromas I would more readily associate with the variety in question, including notes of peach skin, pithy fruit, and pine kernel, and memories of lychee and rose soon fade into the distance. On the palate it also seems more as we should expect, with a gentle flesh, aromatic as per the nose, with peachy Viognier fruit. Importantly, it has a good grip to it, a light minerality and some appealing acidity too, and it seems very fresh as a result. I would even go so far as to describe some tension in this wine, which is not something you see in Viognier everyday. Despite my initial misgivings and varietal confusion, this is an exceptionally good wine which should keep Condrieu fans happy, and would probably do something to silence critics of this variety and appellation as well. It is an aromatic delight which I would certainly recommend to all. Rating: 17.5 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Sept 2013)