GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

(from two parcels, one 50- and the other 60-year-old vines): Good medium-deep red. Reduced aromas of redcurrant and nutty oak. Smooth and lightly saline in the mouth, with modest acidity to the redcurrant and smoke flavors; doesn't quite come alive. More saline than fruity on the finish, with dusty tannins. Rating: 86-88 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2014)

(from Les Seuvrées and Les Murots; 100% whole cluster). An overtly spicy and floral nose displays moderately high-toned red berry, earth and underbrush aromas that express a softly sauvage character as well. There is lovely delineation to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess a cool and admirably pure mouth feel, all wrapped in a gorgeously complex and lengthy finish. This is an excellent Gevrey villages. 2019+ Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin Cuvée Bertin shows lovely depth in its layered, expressive fruit. The aromatics are bright and high-toned, but they also are on the border of what most people would find acceptable in terms of volatile acidity. It will be interesting to see how the 2012 develops over the coming years. Virgile Lignier's 2012s are terrific, but this is one wine I recommend tasting before buying if possible. Drinking range: 2016 - 2022 Rating: 89-91 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jan 2014)