URBAN MALBEC

But best value seemed to me to be this seriously charming young Malbec. It was grown at 1,100 metres and aged in French oak barrels for just three months so it has a little structure but the sheer purity and exuberance of the fruit far outweighs any tannin at this point. There's even a little grace note of something that reminds me of the savoury tobacco-leaf scent of Tempranillo, for which O Fournier are famous in Mendoza but I think it is described as 100% Malbec. Although there has been a general move towards refinement of late, there is no shortage of Mendoza Malbec that strikes my palate as a bit too alcoholic or sweet. This wine is billed as 14.5% alcohol but doesn't taste that potent. It also finishes admirably dry and has far more grunt and real personality than made-to-order Argentine Malbec. I see to my chagrin that this is not the first time I have chosen this wine as a wine of the week. The very youthful 2008 vintage of it was my pick here in October 2008. Is it me or O Fournier who is predictable? I hope it's them and would drink this happily any time over the next two years. Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Aug 2013)