Côte de Beaune

What a difference 12 months makes. We remember seeing the empty cellars of Rossignol and Courcel last year and wondering if there was enough to go around. Thankfully the cellars are full again and our Beaune based producers have big smiles back on their faces. It will be Pommard and Volnay that get the limelight in 2017 but don't over look Chorey, Savigny, Pernand, Aloxe and Chassagne - these red fruit dominated wines were full of charm and will offer excellent quality and value.


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Domaine Joël Rémy

A family domaine that extends back five generations to 1853, but which Joël has modernised considerably over the past twenty years, installing new fermentation and ageing equipment. Over the years his vinifications have changed, and the wines have a lot more immediacy and precision. The quality of fruit is not in doubt, as lovers of his Bourgogne Rouge from year to year will attest, and a lot of work in the vineyard contributes to this, including leaf-thinning towards the end of the growing season. In the winery he has installed a vibrating sorting table, and the only filtering is by a lens filter at very low pressure to avoid de-naturing the wines. All offer quite striking value.

In 2016 Joël was joined full-time by both his children, Maxime and Manon. There is a renewed air of excitement and ambition here, and the 2017s continue to show the confidence that Joël has brought to the winemaking.

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Pinot Noir Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Pinot Noir Domaine Joël Rémy

Joël has absolutely nailed it once again with this. It smells youthful, but the palate is impressively intense. The fruit is nice, pretty, 'just' well-ripened. Red berries. Good lick of acidity too.Joël has absolutely nailed it once again with this. It smells youthful, but the palate is impressively intense. The fruit is nice, pretty, 'just' well-ripened. Red berries. Good lick of acidity too. Easy, balanced and juicy. What more can you ask for with Bourgogne Rouge at this price? Drinking range: 2019 - 2024L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHOREY LES BEAUNE Les Beaumonts Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 CHOREY LES BEAUNE Les Beaumonts Domaine Joël Rémy

After the Brilliant Bourgogne Rouge, this is darker, drier and more intense - tangibly more serious. Some hawthorn and a damson edge which mingles with the sweeter, dark-red fruit well. All motorsAfter the Brilliant Bourgogne Rouge, this is darker, drier and more intense - tangibly more serious. Some hawthorn and a damson edge which mingles with the sweeter, dark-red fruit well. All motors along nicely with a good clean flow. Persistent. Good energy. Lots to enjoy. Pretty wine with a serious side. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Fourneaux Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Fourneaux Domaine Joël Rémy

This comes from a plot just next to the ‘Cross of Pernand’ on the road to Pernand-Vergelesses Darker and again a step up in intensity. Some grip too - fine grained tannins build. Dark berries andThis comes from a plot just next to the ‘Cross of Pernand’ on the road to Pernand-Vergelesses Darker and again a step up in intensity. Some grip too - fine grained tannins build. Dark berries and crunch but there is a ripeness too and a good helping of generous, ripe matter. This has direction and elegance. Good and pleasing Savigny. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Cent Vignes Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Cent Vignes Domaine Joël Rémy

Very different site to where Joel's Avaux comes from. This parcel is not on the Pommard side. There is much more pep and bounce. Good juiciness and intensity. But there is more structure too anVery different site to where Joel's Avaux comes from. This parcel is not on the Pommard side. There is much more pep and bounce. Good juiciness and intensity. But there is more structure too an almost angular feel at this stage. Solid again, but more power here and drive than the Avaux - good stuff! Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 ALOXE CORTON Les Combes Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 ALOXE CORTON Les Combes Domaine Joël Rémy

After the Beaune Les Cent Vignes - this Aloxe is more hairy, with more acidity and a more mineral side. Its all here and there's a good buzz to it. Purple fruit and a firm scrub of grip tells of moreAfter the Beaune Les Cent Vignes - this Aloxe is more hairy, with more acidity and a more mineral side. Its all here and there's a good buzz to it. Purple fruit and a firm scrub of grip tells of more to come in time. Fruit-pot middle is good and inviting. Nice feel and bright push. Will take a moment and then reward greatly. Another bargain for drinkers from Joel Remy. Drinking range: 2022 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD Vignots Domaine Joël Rémy

2017 POMMARD Vignots Domaine Joël Rémy

Nose here has damsons and green herbs - the palate has brightness and kick. Goes more plum-skin and red cherry juice. Nice and focused, but seems young. This has push and plushness in good measure.Nose here has damsons and green herbs - the palate has brightness and kick. Goes more plum-skin and red cherry juice. Nice and focused, but seems young. This has push and plushness in good measure. Very ripe tannins are silky and barely there. This parcel is just under the woods at the top of the côte. Warm and south facing vines give that supple, crowd-pleasing feel in a vintage like 2017. Very pleasing. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. Now he has decided to leave, making a token 1800 or so bottles in 2016, before starting in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.

Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2017 he used no S02 until just before bottling, but if there's some botrytis he will add it earlier.

Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET ROUGE Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph is not really aiming for huge complexity with his reds, but croquant Pinot character, and this has a lovely briary Pinot fruit, and a suave, firm feel - to drink from 2020.Joseph is not really aiming for huge complexity with his reds, but croquant Pinot character, and this has a lovely briary Pinot fruit, and a suave, firm feel - to drink from 2020.L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Hubert Lamy

A domaine with 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are spread over Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Olivier Lamy's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2017, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The 2017 whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness. 2017 brought no relief from the recent small harvests - thanks to early frosts which nipped the buds, yields were 10-20hl/ha in the Bourgogne and village Saint Aubins, so volumes are still decidedly short.

Olivier says of the vintage '2017 will be a solar year but very balanced with ripe wines at the beginning of the mouth and finishing on freshness, minerality, tension and a lot of energy. The élevage will be 24 months without any new wood to keep more freshness. The wines are nicely balanced, revealing aromas of citrus fruits. They are pure, fresh and mineral wines. Their chiselled and precise character means they will keep well.". As for the reds, he says 'This vintage gave very healthy red grapes, so a good proportion of the whole bunches was kept in vatting. Ruby colours, a complex nose, floral, fruity and spicy, the concentration in the mouth and soft and pleasant tannins characterise these wines which express nice notes of fresh fruits. All finesse, they show all the elements of great Burgundian red wines.'

Domaine-Hubert-Lamy
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge Goujonne Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge Goujonne Domaine Hubert Lamy

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Goujonne Rouge, is raised in 20% new oak with 50% whole bunches, has a delightful red cherry and cranberry scented bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with crispThe 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Goujonne Rouge, is raised in 20% new oak with 50% whole bunches, has a delightful red cherry and cranberry scented bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, quite sharp on the entry but with fine precision on the finish. Fine. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 86-88 Neal Martin, vinous.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SANTENAY Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SANTENAY Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

One of the great vineyards of Santenay, steeply sloped especially towards the top. Olivier has high-density planted at the bottom. Deep colour, juicy and rich, with lots of limestone and energy.One of the great vineyards of Santenay, steeply sloped especially towards the top. Olivier has high-density planted at the bottom. Deep colour, juicy and rich, with lots of limestone and energy.L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.

Domaine-Fernand-Laurent-Pillot
2017 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Lots of good concentration to the Bourgogne Rouge. Some crunchy red fruit in the mid-palate. A smooth seamless wine that has you reaching for another sip. Cherry on the finish. Joyful fruit. VeryLots of good concentration to the Bourgogne Rouge. Some crunchy red fruit in the mid-palate. A smooth seamless wine that has you reaching for another sip. Cherry on the finish. Joyful fruit. Very drinkable already. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 SANTENAY Prarons Dessus Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 SANTENAY Prarons Dessus Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Deeper colour. Soft inviting nose. Some flesh on the palate is kept in check by noticeable dusty tannins. The red fruit is speckled with mineral notes. Poised acidity throughout. This should onceDeeper colour. Soft inviting nose. Some flesh on the palate is kept in check by noticeable dusty tannins. The red fruit is speckled with mineral notes. Poised acidity throughout. This should once again offer good value on release. Adrien oversaw some technical changes this year to how they put this together. Keeping the juice on the skins for 3-4 days longer than normal - but with less forced maceration and punching down. The extra time with skin contact connects tannins to colour, so perversley makes it seem less tannic. He also reduced the new wood component somewhat across all the reds - because 2017 is such a good, juicy vintage.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge Vieilles Vignes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge Vieilles Vignes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Again good density - slightly more serious than the Santenay in structure, so the fruit is less open for now, but more intense and longer.Again good density - slightly more serious than the Santenay in structure, so the fruit is less open for now, but more intense and longer.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 VOLNAY Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The 'village' Volnay has a brisk red fruit feel to it. Medium bodied, the wine has a mineral edge to it. Red cherry and cranberry. Stones and pebbles. A well made, balanced Volnay that will put aThe 'village' Volnay has a brisk red fruit feel to it. Medium bodied, the wine has a mineral edge to it. Red cherry and cranberry. Stones and pebbles. A well made, balanced Volnay that will put a smile on your face. From four parcels of vines, of which two, Brouillards and Ronceret, are classified Premier Cru.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD Tavannes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD Tavannes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Plenty of dark fruit on the nose. Sweet dark fruit on the palate. Welcoming prickle of tannin. A good slick, plump feel. The acidity dances alongside the glossy fruit. No big oak. This is one of thePlenty of dark fruit on the nose. Sweet dark fruit on the palate. Welcoming prickle of tannin. A good slick, plump feel. The acidity dances alongside the glossy fruit. No big oak. This is one of the best Tavannes I have tried from Laurent. L&S(Oct 2018)

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Half-bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Rouge 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Only four barrels of the Morgeot rouge was made in the last vintage. Laurent looks much more relaxed this year. There is plenty of sweet dark fruit on the palate. Some grip and structure from theOnly four barrels of the Morgeot rouge was made in the last vintage. Laurent looks much more relaxed this year. There is plenty of sweet dark fruit on the palate. Some grip and structure from the tautening tannin and vibrant acidity. The concentrated fruit flavours sing. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Boucherottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Boucherottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Boucherottes is just below Clos des Mouches. Dark colour. Scented nose of floral and juicy Pinot along with blackberry fruit. The juice is slick and glossy. Sweet dark fruit. Lively in the mouth,Boucherottes is just below Clos des Mouches. Dark colour. Scented nose of floral and juicy Pinot along with blackberry fruit. The juice is slick and glossy. Sweet dark fruit. Lively in the mouth, silky and fresh and round. The acidity dances on the palate and the tannins give a gentle drying tautness to the finish. Can be drunk young. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos du Verger Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos du Verger Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Restrained nose. Velvety, silky texture from the clay in this vineyard. Dark fruit flavour. Harmonious, juicy, easy to like.Restrained nose. Velvety, silky texture from the clay in this vineyard. Dark fruit flavour. Harmonious, juicy, easy to like. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Enticing fine fruit nose with a touch of smoke. Refined palate. Good structure to the dark fruit. There is substance and freshness, but it is the elegance of this site which comes out above all. WillEnticing fine fruit nose with a touch of smoke. Refined palate. Good structure to the dark fruit. There is substance and freshness, but it is the elegance of this site which comes out above all. Will repay a short time in the cellar. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Produced from old vines, some dating back to the 60s, the Rugiens tops the table in a line up of impressive Pillot Pommards. Striking nose of rich fruit. On the palate there is complexity already.Produced from old vines, some dating back to the 60s, the Rugiens tops the table in a line up of impressive Pillot Pommards. Striking nose of rich fruit. On the palate there is complexity already. Rich and round, then real density and the tannins firm up in the concentration. Terrific energy throughout. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine Henri Germain

Jean-François Germain has been joined over the course of 2018 by his daughter Lucie - who is now helping to run this small (6.5ha) domaine.

The Chassagne vineyards came through his mother, a Pillot, and Jean-François is married to François Jobard's daughter, so they are quite intertwined with some of our other producers. In terms of winemaking the Germains are always happy to let nature take its course, and in the vineyards they follow as natural a system of viticulture as possible.

These are concentrated, tightly wound wines from one of Burgundy's coldest cellars. Slow to develop, they show wonderful crystalline purity. New wood is used sparingly.

Domaine-Henri-Germain
2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Bressandes Domaine Henri Germain

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Bressandes Domaine Henri Germain

Rich, dark-fruit nose with a hint of honey. The texture is slick and weighty. Some complexity to the fruit already. The dark berry and wood notes blending well together. The acidity comes in at theRich, dark-fruit nose with a hint of honey. The texture is slick and weighty. Some complexity to the fruit already. The dark berry and wood notes blending well together. The acidity comes in at the end and creates a crisper feel. Red fruit on the finish. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Henri Germain

Perfumed nose. There is elegance to the sweet red fruit. The juice is concentrated but not dense. Mixed berries along with a hint of oak rounds it out. Attractive style. Perfumed nose. There is elegance to the sweet red fruit. The juice is concentrated but not dense. Mixed berries along with a hint of oak rounds it out. Attractive style. L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

After hail and frost had savagely cut the production here in four out of the previous five vintages, it was smiles and relief all round this year. In 2016 Nico had just five barrels of 'Village' Volnay, but the 'perfect' 2017 vintage has yielded 39 barrels form the same ground. How Nico has managed to keep smiling through the last few years is anyone's guess, but that's Nico. It can only be hoped that with the only slightly smaller 2018 harvest now in barrel, these troubles have come to an end. Now in its second year, he could not be happier with his new winery. A fantastic bespoke build, admittedly in a ZI (Zone industrielle) on the outskirts of Beaune, which he recognises is not ideal for the folklore aspect, but it is a perfect tool for the job, and does have a good view of all 'his' bits of the Côte - from the roof.

As we wrote last year, the wines in this cellar reflect his bounding optimism - they are generous and bouncing with energy. He describes the 2017 vintage as 'Gourmand, Friand, Fruité', which is marvellous, but at least partly untranslatable - come on chaps, we need a word for gourmand that is better than 'greedy', and another for friand which does not involve a long explanation - but 'easy to love' might do. But you get the idea. It's delish. 'Not the density of 2015, but just as well-balanced', as Nico went on to say, and 'a vintage which respects the identity of each terroir. The kind of vintage you can drink from the word go, and at any time for ten years, but which will surprise if you then find a bottle you've forgotten in the cellar, when you see it has aged brilliantly - like the 2002s'. From a Bourgogne you can drink now, through to an incredibly serious Grand-Cru-level Pommard Rugiens, this is a great set of wines.
2017 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Mineral nose joined by a little toast. Sweet cherry fruit on the palate with gravel evident in the background. The Bourgogne has a lovely mouth feel, light and crisp with no hard edges. VeryMineral nose joined by a little toast. Sweet cherry fruit on the palate with gravel evident in the background. The Bourgogne has a lovely mouth feel, light and crisp with no hard edges. Very attractive - a great all rounder that won't break the bank. 60% aged in wood, 40% in tank to retain freshness. Drinking range: 2018 - L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 ALOXE CORTON Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE 1er Cru Les Fourneaux Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE 1er Cru Les Fourneaux Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Tried from two barrels. The first was an old oak barrel: Lovely cherry fruit, tightly knitted with chalky tannins. The second sample was from a new oak barrel: The cherry fruit was much fuller,Tried from two barrels. The first was an old oak barrel: Lovely cherry fruit, tightly knitted with chalky tannins. The second sample was from a new oak barrel: The cherry fruit was much fuller, richer and rounder. A bold and rich-fruited wine with solid tannins under, in need of a little more élevage when we saw it, but should be excellent.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD Vignots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD Vignots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The Vignots is perched higher up on the Côte where the soil is thinner and is dominated by white rock (limestone and chalk). A tighter feel. Lovely refined fruit. The chalk is evident in theThe Vignots is perched higher up on the Côte where the soil is thinner and is dominated by white rock (limestone and chalk). A tighter feel. Lovely refined fruit. The chalk is evident in the mineral frame. It has a cool, slender feel to it. There is enough fruit to see it home. An attractive, genuine Pommard. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The village Volnay is taken from plots on clay and limestone, vinified separately then blended together. Lovely charming ample black fruit and then the charge of the mineral limestone element givingThe village Volnay is taken from plots on clay and limestone, vinified separately then blended together. Lovely charming ample black fruit and then the charge of the mineral limestone element giving energy and length - lovely balance and enormously likeable.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Always a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit isAlways a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit is sweet and attractive. Some spice too. Good volume and concentration balanced by fresh acidity.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD Noizons Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD Noizons Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

After the Village wine this has more charm, soft and ripe. An easy to love Pinot that puts you at ease immediately. As Nico explains, Noizons is really a Pommard for people who don’t like Pommard!After the Village wine this has more charm, soft and ripe. An easy to love Pinot that puts you at ease immediately. As Nico explains, Noizons is really a Pommard for people who don’t like Pommard! Great fruit red and supple with gentle spice, but without the Pommard bones. The vines here are on clay - which helps give that easy and sexy style. A real smoothie. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Clos des Angles Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Clos des Angles Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The Clos des Angles is made with 50% whole cluster giving a lovely juicy feel to the wine. Straight laced at this stage. There is a plump and weighty feel that is kept in check by fresh acidity and aThe Clos des Angles is made with 50% whole cluster giving a lovely juicy feel to the wine. Straight laced at this stage. There is a plump and weighty feel that is kept in check by fresh acidity and a tingle of tannin. Complexity should come in time. I look forward to trying this again once bottled. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

100% de-stemmed. So silky and classy - a slippery feel, saline then intense with flavour, a real lift of mineral - there's a lot of iron in the soil here. Very moreish.100% de-stemmed. So silky and classy - a slippery feel, saline then intense with flavour, a real lift of mineral - there's a lot of iron in the soil here. Very moreish.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Santenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Santenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Two hectare plot which is divided in to 4 different parcels - each vinified separately. The vineyard is dominated by large limestone rocks in a soil with a lot of ireon oxide. There is wonderfulTwo hectare plot which is divided in to 4 different parcels - each vinified separately. The vineyard is dominated by large limestone rocks in a soil with a lot of ireon oxide. There is wonderful primary black fruit which marries well with the oak. Gamey and earthy notes too. Rich, powerful and masculine. Good structure with the tannins building towards the finish. Classy and pronounced. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Unusual for Pommard because of its easy charm. There is lots of clay in Nico's parcel here - which is near his 'Noizons' a wine in 2017 that is unnervingly gentle.! Delicious. Pretty. Dark redUnusual for Pommard because of its easy charm. There is lots of clay in Nico's parcel here - which is near his 'Noizons' a wine in 2017 that is unnervingly gentle.! Delicious. Pretty. Dark red fruit. Soft and doux for Pommard. Really lovely. Great acidity - super balance. That pitch perfect mix of weight and ripeness with the lovely freshening acidity is joyous. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Roncerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Roncerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

'Roncerets' literally means 'Blackberry Bush' and Blackberry is certainly evident in the wine. Sweet dark fruit dominates the palate. It feels quite fat until the chalky tannins start to build and'Roncerets' literally means 'Blackberry Bush' and Blackberry is certainly evident in the wine. Sweet dark fruit dominates the palate. It feels quite fat until the chalky tannins start to build and the structure becomes more apparent. There is a good balance of elegance and power. Plenty of energy and brambly vigour. A lovely, bold Volnay. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich darkThe soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich dark fruit kept in check by noticeable acidity. Ripe tannins grow towards the end. The limestone becomes apparent at the finish with a hint of rocky mineral.L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Argillières Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Argillières Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Tasted after the Clos de Vergers - this is darker and more spicily toasty on the nose. The parcel is within part of Clos de Vergers. More tannic and serious. Yet still supple and ripely done.Tasted after the Clos de Vergers - this is darker and more spicily toasty on the nose. The parcel is within part of Clos de Vergers. More tannic and serious. Yet still supple and ripely done. Dense. More limestone here, and so it is no surprise the structure is good, mineral and sculpted well. Lovely dark aromas. Charming Pommard. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The vineyard name 'Caillerets' translates as 'Small Stones' in English. The soil is made up of clay with small lumps of limestone. There is a feminine aspect to the wine - smooth on entry the wineThe vineyard name 'Caillerets' translates as 'Small Stones' in English. The soil is made up of clay with small lumps of limestone. There is a feminine aspect to the wine - smooth on entry the wine has attractive fruit with lots of mineral flavour woven around it. It is well balanced - the weight of juice is well supported by noticeable tannin and acidity. Great finesse. L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Épenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Épenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The Épenots parcel is made up of vines that were planted 112 years ago (75% of the cuvée) with some that are 50 years old. The oldest vines are a little plot owned by Vincent, who works for NicolasThe Épenots parcel is made up of vines that were planted 112 years ago (75% of the cuvée) with some that are 50 years old. The oldest vines are a little plot owned by Vincent, who works for Nicolas and trusts him to make the best wine with them. The result is Grand Cru quality. Very rich and complete on the nose. A mineral core. Red, black fruit and spice. The deep fruit is joined by mouth-coating velvety tannins. Slightly closed at this stage but the tension and energy is apparent and hugely impressive. Drinking range: 2026 - L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Comte Armand

A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.

The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.

Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.

The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.

Paul has nailed his colours to the mast by saying he wants to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.

2017 AUXEY DURESSES Domaine Comte Armand

2017 AUXEY DURESSES Domaine Comte Armand

All this comes from one parcel of 35-65 year old vines. From a clay rich vineyard. No whole bunch is used. This is pretty but has a nice grippy intensity too. Paul has allowed quite a long macerationAll this comes from one parcel of 35-65 year old vines. From a clay rich vineyard. No whole bunch is used. This is pretty but has a nice grippy intensity too. Paul has allowed quite a long maceration - he wanted to do this to add depth a total of 4 weeks of maceration, after fermentation. Nice cherry flesh and some perky skin bite too. Grip and structure in place. As yet this is unfined and Paul says he will fine it gently, which will soften the firmish tannins a tad. Drinking range: 2019 - 2024L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

This comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas deThis comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas de Duresses which has deeper soil, more clay. This adds the depth and weight to the blend. Paul is not planning to fine nor filter this and you can see why. There is good density and great energy. Really joyously vibrant, but it is hard not to like the nicely ripe fruit too. This is measured and has good push with pretty red fruit. A great Auxey. L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY Domaine Comte Armand

2017 VOLNAY Domaine Comte Armand

In contrast to the first two wines, here the nose is sufficiently reduced to render an evaluation difficult. By contrast there is good freshness and verve to the more precisely detailed middle weightIn contrast to the first two wines, here the nose is sufficiently reduced to render an evaluation difficult. By contrast there is good freshness and verve to the more precisely detailed middle weight flavors where the supporting tannins are notably finer even though the finish is also ever-so-slightly rustic. A quality Volnay villages. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2019)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

A seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberryA seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberry flesh. Kept in check by a good, suedey underside. Overla this feels like it will be drinking from the get go. nusually with this Volnay they have done somne some pigeage, Paul is not big in to it - but he felt this wine needed a touch of extraction and intensity. The fruit comes form 2 plots. One is made up of 90 year old vines - the other is 33 years old. After 2016 he was considering pulling out the old vines. But he is really happy with them in 2017. 25% New wood here. 10% Whole Bunch. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

Tasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vinesTasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vines which are between 35 and 55 years old. There is great poise to this and lovely push. There is a firmness that pushes back at you here, a remarkable powerful wall of minerality that is like a brooding edifice. Creating a crisp backdrop to the nice weight of bright red fruit. Pretty Pinot with a lifted character. Crunchy and nervy. The majority (60%) will be made up of the old vine parcel, 65-90 year old vines. This component is on another plain. So much more richness here. a lovely sweeter feel. Great depth. Denser, really quite wonderfully indulgent. A much more luxurious and decadent feel. Darker red fruit and super texture. The resultant blend is very impressive. Somehow more perfumed on the nose. This expresses itself really nicely. generous but well measured. Comes together well and you totally see the decision on these proportions. That dense richer fruit sits well on the brighter, firmer lift of the younger vines. Good delivery now - ample weight and good level of ping. Nicely complementary components that end up well balanced but certainly generous on the fruit side. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine de Courcel

One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.

The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.

The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine de Courcel

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine de Courcel

This has guts and bite. Nice grippy intensity. Great dark fruit. Full of black currant and plum skin. sleek tannins and juicy too. Impressive punch and savour for a Bourgogne.This has guts and bite. Nice grippy intensity. Great dark fruit. Full of black currant and plum skin. sleek tannins and juicy too. Impressive punch and savour for a Bourgogne. Drinking range: 2020 - 2024L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD Vaumuriens Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD Vaumuriens Domaine de Courcel

Just a whiff of toast on nose. In the mouth there is again that tell-tale grip and wildness. Measured though and with nice minerality growing. This is Pommard for sure. Nicely granular grip underpinsJust a whiff of toast on nose. In the mouth there is again that tell-tale grip and wildness. Measured though and with nice minerality growing. This is Pommard for sure. Nicely granular grip underpins the fruit - yet there is more flow here, a nice richness to the fruit. Good and nice push here. The finish is long and really pleasing with weighty fruit and nice smooth lines. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Fremiers Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Fremiers Domaine de Courcel

Higher toned than either the Vaumariens or the Croix Noirs. Softer fruit middle. Really quite generous and free flowing for this cellar. More purple and red berries here. Sleeker and easier. StillHigher toned than either the Vaumariens or the Croix Noirs. Softer fruit middle. Really quite generous and free flowing for this cellar. More purple and red berries here. Sleeker and easier. Still that power and impact you want from de Courcel - but a softer blow delivers this with some comfort. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Croix Noires Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Croix Noires Domaine de Courcel

Nose is softer and more generous here. The palate is rich, but on the dark, more sinewy end of things. Earthy notes too with the mulberry and restrained damson juice. This is more generous and moreNose is softer and more generous here. The palate is rich, but on the dark, more sinewy end of things. Earthy notes too with the mulberry and restrained damson juice. This is more generous and more supple than the Vaumariens at this stage.With that grip relenting somewhat - and this has good power too. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

Scented and with a growing gentle, plum flesh perfume on the nose. Then you feel the very fine-lined texture, great detail. There is a darkness here, a deep brood to the fruit - some baked plum, someScented and with a growing gentle, plum flesh perfume on the nose. Then you feel the very fine-lined texture, great detail. There is a darkness here, a deep brood to the fruit - some baked plum, some morello cherry and such gorgeously fine tannins. Real flow and polish, not shiny - but sleek and so persistent the fruit ripeness is bang on. Rich and pure and powerfully driven with perfect balance of underpinning minerality and super fine, powdery tannins. Darkly sexy wine. Drinking range: 2024 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel

Yves tastes this after the Grand Clos des EPenots and you can see why, it is a real change of gear. Great news - a blast of cool fresh Pinot Noir. Palate has a racy feel. Intense, more edge and cutYves tastes this after the Grand Clos des EPenots and you can see why, it is a real change of gear. Great news - a blast of cool fresh Pinot Noir. Palate has a racy feel. Intense, more edge and cut here. More tightly-furled fruit at the core. a restrained hardness. The tannins are here for the long haul - but protect the really lovely fruit - soft strawberry flesh peeks out and deliciously ripe plum juice. Really nice firm drive - but not aggressive finish.L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Henri Boillot

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.

The Domaine totals around 14 hectares, with roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. The 2017 vintage saw the arrival of two new parcels of Grand Cru red, in Échezeaux and Latricières Chambertin

In November 2018 we tasted with Henri while Guillaume was busy in the cellar, working on the just harvested 2018s, and he was very upbeat about the 2017s - rightly so. They harvested the whites between the 27th and 30th August - going early to preserve the energy which is increasingly a hallmark here.

Henri says this year is quite like 2016 but with a bit more weight he thinks. There is lovely acidity like the 2013s. He explains that 2017s have the same acidity as the 2016s - but with a note more glycerol which pads out the middle. The results are delicious, delectable wines you want to drink.

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine Henri Boillot

'Un Pannier de Framboise' says Henri - he is right the nose explodes like a direct hit on the Tiptree Raspberry Jam production line. Delicious and very easy to like. Pure fruit, ripe and so generous'Un Pannier de Framboise' says Henri - he is right the nose explodes like a direct hit on the Tiptree Raspberry Jam production line. Delicious and very easy to like. Pure fruit, ripe and so generous and sleek. For drinking early and taking great pleasure from that plump, juicy dark fruit. Not complicated but very joyful.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Henri Boillot

After the Fremiets there is immediately more texture, more grip here. A good feel and some nicely ripe fruit. Yes again there is the glycerine like texture to the fruit core, but the darker notes andAfter the Fremiets there is immediately more texture, more grip here. A good feel and some nicely ripe fruit. Yes again there is the glycerine like texture to the fruit core, but the darker notes and the grip begin to build in the mouth, black fruits compete with the softly ripe red berries. An impressive Chevrets, dark and brooding but very suave. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

More aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. AgainMore aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. Again that lovely sleek flow, the glycerol coated glide across the palate that is so inviting. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Henri Boillot

The Caillerets is the most serious of the Boillots' Volnays and it is all fermented in barrel. Which are specially modified to have big holes to get the grapes in and out. The nose has violets andThe Caillerets is the most serious of the Boillots' Volnays and it is all fermented in barrel. Which are specially modified to have big holes to get the grapes in and out. The nose has violets and deep red flesh of plum and some damson skin pep too. Lively and higher-toned than the Fremiets or Chevret. More ethereal with its flow - but the fruit is beautifully weighted and so satisfying. Gorgeous dark notes keep this feeling more serious but is is really good and full of pleasure. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

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Henri Boillot

Henri Boillot complements his domaine wines with a small range of négociant wines of superb quality in very limited quantities. A few of the wines are offered here - an opportunity to buy some of Burgundy's rarest appellations from a top source.
Henri-Boillot
2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Henri Boillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Henri Boillot

A tad firmer than any of the domaine's Volnays as you would expect. Darker fruit lines here. Some leaf, some pepper and thick-skinned blackcurrants at play with the more generous blackberry pulp.A tad firmer than any of the domaine's Volnays as you would expect. Darker fruit lines here. Some leaf, some pepper and thick-skinned blackcurrants at play with the more generous blackberry pulp. Intense, more meaty and more wild. Yet still fun and a ride worth taking. Lots of joy and just a slightly wild side.L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine de la Douaix

Mark and Gilles Moustie are Belgians, huge fans of wine and in particular Burgundy. The family rented a gite for many years in the Hautes Côtes village of Arcenant, straight up the hill to the west of Nuits Saint Georges, and gently graduated from buying wines at domaines up and down the Côte to wanting to make the wine themselves. Eventually they bought some vines and a house with cellars, and set to.

Most of their wines are from vines they own, but they do make a little wine from bought-in fruit to supplement what is still a tiny domaine. It is his Gilles who is hands-on on a daily basis and is really running the domaine now with ever-growing confidence and the wines seem to improve year on year. He is now working organically across the domaine.

There is lovely fruit in these 2017s, as well as the depth and gutsiness which attracted us to this domaine in the first place.

Domaine-de-la-Douaix
2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Dessus les Vermots Domaine de la Douaix

2017 SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE Dessus les Vermots Domaine de la Douaix

We tasted this in the cellar in November 2018 from the barrel and then again in London in January and the evolution is dramatic. Gilles has been creative this year adapting to the strange seasonWe tasted this in the cellar in November 2018 from the barrel and then again in London in January and the evolution is dramatic. Gilles has been creative this year adapting to the strange season which produced a good volume but he felt the juice needed more bite than in 2016 - so has changed the 'new wood' element here with 2 of the 5 barrels being fresh this year. The impact is good - what was a leaner more direct feel and a darker edge in November has rounded out somewhat and the wines were looking very attractive at our London tasting. That bite is still there, but balanced nicely by spicy, soft fruit. Supple and more generous now - and better for it. A very smart Savigny from Gilles Moustie who seems to be really making great qualitative strides each year as he understands more and more about his terroir. No doubt this will continue to evolve nicely for another 4-6 years. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 ALOXE CORTON Domaine de la Douaix

2017 ALOXE CORTON Domaine de la Douaix

This was not in a 'tastable' state when we visited the cellar in November so it was great to try it with Gilles at our London tasting in January. Feels quite serious, great hold and intensity. GoodThis was not in a 'tastable' state when we visited the cellar in November so it was great to try it with Gilles at our London tasting in January. Feels quite serious, great hold and intensity. Good maturity to the fruit - yet still retains that firm drive. The appetising core is deliciously dark and has a good note of sinewy intensity that adds real savour and a delicious new angle to the more plump fruit weight. A fun-packed, yet serious and ambitious Aloxe Corton that certainly delivers. A good new addition to the focused range here. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

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Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.

The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.

The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Maconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Cote de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard, in the same way.

Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. At the dinner after our 7th January tasting this year, we had a bottle of the 1996 'village' Chambolle, still hanging on and gloriously scented, While a 2006 and 2007 Grand Clos des Épenots from de Courcel showed two brilliantly realised wines in the style of their respective vintages that are just hitting their stride.

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Arvelets Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Arvelets Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is fresh and straight and tight. It pounces and is energetic. There is a grip to the tannins. Smooth to begin and a grip to the end. There is very good indeed. Vigorous finish. the vineyard isThis is fresh and straight and tight. It pounces and is energetic. There is a grip to the tannins. Smooth to begin and a grip to the end. There is very good indeed. Vigorous finish. the vineyard is situated toward the bottom of the slope, benefits from the colder air coming through the valley. Rating: 18.45 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Jan 2019)

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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
2017 CORTON RENARDES Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CORTON RENARDES Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has 2 parcels here; 1 is higher up the hill with really deep soils. The combination, Thibault explains, adds real complexity. He has included 40% Whole bunch too, to add some lift, despiteThibault has 2 parcels here; 1 is higher up the hill with really deep soils. The combination, Thibault explains, adds real complexity. He has included 40% Whole bunch too, to add some lift, despite the limestone soils which already influence the clean sweeping feel. Sweet attack. Fruit is poised but ripe. Remains light on its toes - rich not thick - but sweet and with easy flow - it is good. About a third new oak. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CORTON Grand Cru Clos du Roi Thibault Liger-Belair
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Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Domaine Dugat-Py's wines are far from shy and retiring, but they do require patience to show their best. Old vines, tiny yields, viticulture with minute and constant attention, all lead to a magnificent concentration and purity in the raw material. Without extracting harsh tannins, Loïc (who despite his youthful good-looks, has overseen the wine-making since 2012) gets an astonishing density into the wines, and they take on the high percentage of new oak quite casually. (The village wines get 55-65% new wood, while the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are all aged in 100% new barrels.)

The wines are every bit as good as you'd expect from this domaine in 2017 and for once may not be as devilishly long-lived as usual. As Loïc said the wines have an openness and a more aerial feel this year - and are deeply charming for it. The season he says was unusual and with the vines recovering from the loss of so much fruit in 2016 to frost (almost 30%) they went in to overdrive producing lots of grapes in 2017. Taking counsel from his father and grandfather he resisted the urge for a bountiful harvest and spent August thinning out the crop with a thorough green harvest. 'No holiday for me' he said cheerfully - and kept smiling as he explained they dropped enough fruit to fill another 20 barrels - ouch! There were, said Loïc, some problems with 'blocage de maturité' where young vines really suffered in the 36/37-degree heat. The harvest was early - starting on the 2nd of September, they were among the first. Neither in 2017, nor in 2018, was there really anything to do on the sorting table. The understanding and skill from the three generations of Dugats was crucial in such fine results. When you taste these mesmerising wines, you realise that all the right decisions were made. A real highlight on our tour of the region. Dense and intense but with a lovely softness in 2017, truly extraordinary.

These wines are in high demand, but it is still well-worth making requests, especially if buying other wines. Likely to be released in March.

Domaine-Bernard-Dugat-Py
2017 POMMARD Vieilles Vignes La Levrière Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 POMMARD Vieilles Vignes La Levrière Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

This is charming! Lovely full feel, quite glossy almost but quite powerful. Then the structure begins to build. There nicely driven, focused but with some serious guts. Fine grained tannin. 'MoreThis is charming! Lovely full feel, quite glossy almost but quite powerful. Then the structure begins to build. There nicely driven, focused but with some serious guts. Fine grained tannin. 'More torréfié' says Loic and he is right. It stays supple - not overdone, but full and soft. More Pommard with some power and breadth. Vines here are nearly 80 years old. Defined and so joyous with energetic push. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond