Côte de Nuits PART 1

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Domaine de la Douaix

Mark and Gilles Moustie are Belgians, huge fans of wine and in particular Burgundy. The family rented a gite for many years in the Hautes Côtes village of Arcenant, straight up the hill to the west of Nuits Saint Georges, and gently graduated from buying wines at domaines up and down the Côte to wanting to make the wine themselves. Eventually they bought some vines and a house with cellars, and set to.

Most of their wines are from vines they own, but they do make a little wine from bought-in fruit to supplement what is still a tiny domaine. It is his Gilles who is hands-on on a daily basis and is really running the domaine now with ever-growing confidence and the wines seem to improve year on year. He is now working organically across the domaine.

There is lovely fruit in these 2017s, as well as the depth and gutsiness which attracted us to this domaine in the first place.

Domaine-de-la-Douaix
2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de la Douaix

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Vieilles Vignes Domaine de la Douaix

Although this has certainly 'put on weight' since we tasted in November this retains a positive, fresh feel - lots of nice pretty fruit. Soft, richer strawberry juice and some good earthy spice too.Although this has certainly 'put on weight' since we tasted in November this retains a positive, fresh feel - lots of nice pretty fruit. Soft, richer strawberry juice and some good earthy spice too. The delicate feel we noted in November has been replaced by a slightly more weighty and satisfying core. Not massive but a good depth of fruit and very nicely delivered. Gilles explains that even at this level they do really do try and intensify things here and get the most out of their vineyards. He evidently feels they need to make serious wines wherever they can as they lack premier or grand cru sites. This is fun but also quite a sophisticated starter here. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Clos des Fervelots Domaine de la Douaix

2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Clos des Fervelots Domaine de la Douaix

A clos of old vines on a steep south-facing slope in Arcenant, above Nuits Saint Georges. At the top there is only 25 centimetres of soil above the rock and you can sense this when tasting. There isA clos of old vines on a steep south-facing slope in Arcenant, above Nuits Saint Georges. At the top there is only 25 centimetres of soil above the rock and you can sense this when tasting. There is a directness and a clean, sweeping feel here fleshed out nicely in 2017 by some supple fruit. Nice push, more power and grip than the Bourgogne. In November, when the Malo was only just completed there was a reticence in the wine - which pleasingly by January had gone. Still plenty of pep - but this has rounded out nicely. There is a good, smart firmness, and promising drive. 12 barrels this year - despite the intensive green-harvesting this is their biggest ever crop of this. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES Terres Nobles Domaine de la Douaix

2017 CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES Terres Nobles Domaine de la Douaix

From two parcels of vines in Corgoloin just south of Nuits, one sixty years old, the other thirty-five. Real Côtes de Nuits class and definition here. Nice up beat red and black fruit. Some raspberryFrom two parcels of vines in Corgoloin just south of Nuits, one sixty years old, the other thirty-five. Real Côtes de Nuits class and definition here. Nice up beat red and black fruit. Some raspberry and perky cranberry - with morello cherrry tracking in the back. Good feel and drive. Ends a little darker and a little richer. Plum and that morello again - a savoury note too. Impresses with finesse, detail and drive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES Vieilles Vignes Domaine de la Douaix

2017 CÔTE DE NUITS VILLAGES Vieilles Vignes Domaine de la Douaix

this is a true Old Vine' cuvée coming from 2 plots - one is 75 years old the other is more than 85. Riper and sweeter attack than the Terre Nobles. Really quite primary when tasted in November, andthis is a true Old Vine' cuvée coming from 2 plots - one is 75 years old the other is more than 85. Riper and sweeter attack than the Terre Nobles. Really quite primary when tasted in November, and there is a more robust feel. In the mid-palate the fruit tightens up a tad. Fine tannins are more present. There is nice complexity and layers of flavourful brambling fruit that spread across the palate. Yet this is firmer for sure. and has really impressive density and drive. These old vines have such long roots that it helps them cope with hydric stress and drought like the hot back end of 2017. Impressive stuff - a grandeur and stature to the wine that belies its humble appellation status. Better from 2021. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

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Domaine Thierry Mortet

The domaine dates back to 1992, when Domaine Charles Mortet was split between Thierry and his brother Denis, and Thierry set up on his own with just 4 hectares of vines. Today he has 7.3 ha, of which 6 are red and 1.3 white. Only 4.36 hectares are Gevrey or Chambolle, the rest being a small parcel of Marsannay Blanc and regionals - Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc, Aligoté and Passetoutgrain.

Thierry continues to be praised in the French press without ever quite seeming to crack the influential American journalists. It may be simply because he is a bit short of fancy appellations - one little cuvée of Grand Cru would no doubt do his reputation a lot of good - but might also put his prices up, and these remain very modest.

In the vineyard, Thierry has been certified organic since 2007, but really this was just an official stamp on what had been the practices of the domaine since the beginning, and he is working towards biodynamic certification. In the cellar, the grapes are entirely de-stemmed, and given four or five days of cold maceration are followed by the fermentation, with just a touch of cooling to keep the temperature around 31-33C (below 35, at least), and two pigeages a day. The total time in vat can be as little as 17 days. The wines then go into barrel, all second use or older for the Bourgogne, with 30% new wood on the Gevrey, and 50% on the Clos Prieur, for a period of around sixteen months.

Thierry's wines are fine and precise, tangy and long, never massive, but not insubstantial all the same.

Domaine-Thierry-Mortet
2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Charmes de Daix Côte de Nuits Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Charmes de Daix Côte de Nuits Domaine Thierry Mortet

Like Thierry his wines have great energy and this Bourgogne from his vines to the north in Daix, is no exception. Bright and peppy, but with good intensity and edge too. There is a weight to theLike Thierry his wines have great energy and this Bourgogne from his vines to the north in Daix, is no exception. Bright and peppy, but with good intensity and edge too. There is a weight to the fruit. It is almost baked in feel - and some Christmas spice too. A whiff of 'speculoos' biscuit. Great Bourgogne Rouge, sprightly yet with a nicely ripened fruit core. But precise too, a great opener to this tasting.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Domaine Thierry Mortet

Pretty and bright in the glass. Fresh and perky attack. Nice crisp edge to the bright red fruit. Some grip, some drive and dabs of nice peppy red berries. Some strawberry flesh and a fine suedey rubPretty and bright in the glass. Fresh and perky attack. Nice crisp edge to the bright red fruit. Some grip, some drive and dabs of nice peppy red berries. Some strawberry flesh and a fine suedey rub of grip that builds and gives a cleanish mineral edge. Peppy Gevrey, lithe and bright. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Vigne Belle Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Vigne Belle Domaine Thierry Mortet

A step up from the village wine with more weight and gloss here. On the palate there is a nice clean wave of fruit. Riper and darker. More blackberry, more restrained for now. Nice focus though -A step up from the village wine with more weight and gloss here. On the palate there is a nice clean wave of fruit. Riper and darker. More blackberry, more restrained for now. Nice focus though - then a tad more closed on the finish at this stage. Smart and quite taut. Not huge breadth but good intensity and flow. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine Thierry Mortet

After the three Gevreys this Chambolle is far more supple and sexy. Less edge and cut here - just really pretty soft, red fruit. Easy and delicate - but with a nice ripeness. Strawberry mulch and aAfter the three Gevreys this Chambolle is far more supple and sexy. Less edge and cut here - just really pretty soft, red fruit. Easy and delicate - but with a nice ripeness. Strawberry mulch and a lacy feel that is bright and lifted. Some intensity, some bones emerge while this is in the mouth. This is a charmer that gains direction in the mouth. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Beaux Bruns Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Beaux Bruns Domaine Thierry Mortet

There is a tad more grunt and drive with this, than the village Chambolle but everything is relative! This has some power and drive, but remains balanced and pretty. Good level of ripeness to theThere is a tad more grunt and drive with this, than the village Chambolle but everything is relative! This has some power and drive, but remains balanced and pretty. Good level of ripeness to the fruit and a fresh edge a mineral drive that keep the flow good and crisp. Attractive and nice fine grained chalky grip. A smart Chambolle. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Clos Prieur Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Clos Prieur Domaine Thierry Mortet

That tell-tale 'lift' is here once again - a real hallmark of this cellar. The clear progression from the Vignes Belles leads us here, again brightness - but the fruit has more weight. More breadthThat tell-tale 'lift' is here once again - a real hallmark of this cellar. The clear progression from the Vignes Belles leads us here, again brightness - but the fruit has more weight. More breadth and intensity. We have gone up the ladder for sure and there is a richer feel in the context of Thierry's cellar - but it is measured by a good level of brightness. Focused and fresh. But good drive too. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.

Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, never exceeding 20% new wood on the Grands Crus, 15% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 10% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.

Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.

Domaine-Stéphane-Magnien
2017 CÔTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS Pur Pinot Noir Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 CÔTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS Pur Pinot Noir Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane used to make a Passetoutgrain, but in 2016 his Gamay was all frosted and so he was left with 'Pure' Pinot. Chatting with him in the cellar you could sense that this opportunity was somewhatStéphane used to make a Passetoutgrain, but in 2016 his Gamay was all frosted and so he was left with 'Pure' Pinot. Chatting with him in the cellar you could sense that this opportunity was somewhat relished - and the result was impressive - and it is again this year, as he has decided to make the Pinot separately again. The fruit comes from a village Morey plot right down at the bottom of the hill near the road. The fruit is bright and fresh - but has the unmissable supple middle of the vintage. So the wine is really attractive and enjoyable from the off. 60% is raised in inox with the balance in older, neutral barrels. A lovely fallout from 2016's tricky cold spring! Drinking range: 2019 - 2022L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Grains Fins Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Grains Fins Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Usually quite a generous feel here as the vines have a good sunny exposition. This is a blend of 2 parcels in ‘Les Crais Gillons’ and so Grains Fins is a cuvée name, which is very appropriate asUsually quite a generous feel here as the vines have a good sunny exposition. This is a blend of 2 parcels in ‘Les Crais Gillons’ and so Grains Fins is a cuvée name, which is very appropriate as there is a very fine feel to the juice. This Morey is so pretty on the attack. Really nicely fine-tuned. Yet backed by lusciously ripe fruit. On the red and blue berry spectrum. Fresh and with some grip and intensity to the core. Elegant and bright, so attractive already - but that finesse and fruit weight will come together even more, with a moment in bottle. 10% New wood. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Also new this year, as he has split out the Vieilles Vignes aspect that he used to include in another wine. He is making it separately this year to highlight the more powerful and intense,Also new this year, as he has split out the Vieilles Vignes aspect that he used to include in another wine. He is making it separately this year to highlight the more powerful and intense, blacker-fruited juice these glorious old vines give. It certainly is darker in feel. More blackberry and sloe berry notes. Nice and rich though rather than being 'dark and bitter' - there is fine tannin that adds some tension here and balances that good enticing riper weight of fruit. Intense for sure, but so clearly still has the house style of a delicate touch. Really interesting new cuvée. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Good harvest this year after the skinny 2016. this is surprisingly ripe and has good weight to the slick, polished fruit. Lots of firm, forest strawberry and ripe cherries with just a lick ofGood harvest this year after the skinny 2016. this is surprisingly ripe and has good weight to the slick, polished fruit. Lots of firm, forest strawberry and ripe cherries with just a lick of mineral dustiness on the back end. This is elegant though - with nice acidity keeping it peppy. a generous fine feel. Fraicheur is the signature of the domaine and is really here - as the long, fine finish develops. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 'Petites Noix' 1er Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 'Petites Noix' 1er Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane is a talented winemaker and this year he is really finding more confidence and his experimenting is clear here with his first time use of whole bunches. He includes 15% here to try and tameStéphane is a talented winemaker and this year he is really finding more confidence and his experimenting is clear here with his first time use of whole bunches. He includes 15% here to try and tame the richly weighted fruit core. I'm pleased he has. There is a lift you feel amongst the deliciously sleek and glycerol-coated, dark fleshed middle. There is some structure too. It's not simply a thick wall of fruit - there is a crunch here and a small edge of power. This builds to a lovely, intense broad feel. The vineyard is just below Clos des Lambrays - on clay soil which results in this deeper, weightier fruit. 25% New wood. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Immediately this is very indulgent. A great intense feel to the fruit. Luxuriant. Nicely polished and sleek. Good width. Great intensity. Really joyful and then that fresh feel to finish. Sleek fruitImmediately this is very indulgent. A great intense feel to the fruit. Luxuriant. Nicely polished and sleek. Good width. Great intensity. Really joyful and then that fresh feel to finish. Sleek fruit and still tension. Long and so moreish. Similar idea to the fins grains but longer and better. Stephane says - un bon Premier Cru, qui monte - it certainly does seem to improve each year. Very supple tannins make this one of our picks of the vintage, really good. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Sentiers Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Sentiers Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Dark baked fruit - plum and damson - but not as ripe or thick as the Petits Noix. Nicely focused and with a fresh edge a bright and lifted finish. Floral. Dried petals - pre-fermentation he reallyDark baked fruit - plum and damson - but not as ripe or thick as the Petits Noix. Nicely focused and with a fresh edge a bright and lifted finish. Floral. Dried petals - pre-fermentation he really gets wafts of rose petal and violet from the juice - this is somewhat muted after time in barrel - but it is certainly very aromatic and lifted nicely. It will be interesting to see how this ages - all is set fair! Elegant and fine boned. 25% New Wood. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS SAINT DENIS Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 CLOS SAINT DENIS Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

So sophisticated. It is poised and perfectly judged. Intense but not tight. Ripe but not sweet. Very fine powdery tannins add shape and then the acidity is juicy and drives this on and on. Hard toSo sophisticated. It is poised and perfectly judged. Intense but not tight. Ripe but not sweet. Very fine powdery tannins add shape and then the acidity is juicy and drives this on and on. Hard to spit. Lots to enjoy. nuance and layered complexity - but not a blockbuster - so much finesse. Such energy and length. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane's Charmes Chambertin is in fact in Mazoyères, but he feels Charmes is a more commercial name. Just enough grip and fine-grained tannin to add power which carries the fine soft flesh ofStéphane's Charmes Chambertin is in fact in Mazoyères, but he feels Charmes is a more commercial name. Just enough grip and fine-grained tannin to add power which carries the fine soft flesh of lovely ripe fruit. Being Mazoyères, it is not as creamy and supple as some Charmes - but perhaps more structure and no doubt has an exciting future. With a fresh edge and the typical restraint of this donmaone's wines. Precise and lifted. 35 year old vines, pruned particularly to reduce yield and have more wood in the trunk. Before bottling he keeps the wines in tank at 16 degrees not chilled to 8 - he feels they go into bottle more open and softer. Another smart innovation form this surprisingly broad-minded young vigneron. 35% New wood. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Lignier-Michelot

A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.

In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.

The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.

Virgile's 2017s were all showing brilliantly when we visited in November, and repeated at our Jan 7th tasting - this domaine is in our view one to follow very closely as the prices have not yet caught up with the growing quality.

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Cuvée Bertin Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Cuvée Bertin Domaine Lignier-Michelot

Good gutsy attack after the two Moreys tasted so far. Suddenly there is that blackberry hit and you know you've moved to Gevrey. A more savoury, earthy side too. Lovely lifted energetic push of justGood gutsy attack after the two Moreys tasted so far. Suddenly there is that blackberry hit and you know you've moved to Gevrey. A more savoury, earthy side too. Lovely lifted energetic push of just ripe black fruit. Clean and charming mineral edge too keeps this lithe and fresh. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

90% Whole Bunch. More brawn here than the Rue de Vergy. There is great intensity. More definition and more energy too. This has lovely exuberance to it. More power and push. More black fruited with90% Whole Bunch. More brawn here than the Rue de Vergy. There is great intensity. More definition and more energy too. This has lovely exuberance to it. More power and push. More black fruited with juicy ripe dark plum. Really polished effort. Delicious. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Rue de Vergy Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Rue de Vergy Domaine Lignier-Michelot

50-70% Whole bunch. Wow - real burst of bright red fruit here. Not tart nor too crunchy just a lovely perkiness to its profile. Joyous and easy going with great continuing drive. Clean as a whistle -50-70% Whole bunch. Wow - real burst of bright red fruit here. Not tart nor too crunchy just a lovely perkiness to its profile. Joyous and easy going with great continuing drive. Clean as a whistle - soft and easy sweep of minerality underpinning it. Good but in quite a lightweight frame - early, appetising drinking. Drinking range: 2019 - 2023L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

100% Whole Bunch used this year. This comes from two premier cru vineyards - Chatelot and Sentiers. There is a sweet concentration of ripe cassis juice on the nose. But on the palate this is lighter100% Whole Bunch used this year. This comes from two premier cru vineyards - Chatelot and Sentiers. There is a sweet concentration of ripe cassis juice on the nose. But on the palate this is lighter on its toes. More ethereal. Delicate. A good, classic Chambolle feel. Fruit is ripe and sweet but very fine and then there is a touch of dusty mineral lift on the finish that builds well and adds a touch more power, very Chambolle, still fresh and precise, despite the ripeness of the fruit. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot

80% Whole Bunch, What a magnificent opening. Great weight of liquid fruit. Intensely flavoured and getting darker in the mouth. Nicely restrained mineral heft builds here. This is heady. Aromatics80% Whole Bunch, What a magnificent opening. Great weight of liquid fruit. Intensely flavoured and getting darker in the mouth. Nicely restrained mineral heft builds here. This is heady. Aromatics soar and there is such drive and power. Lots of spice and plum flesh followed by acidity that keeps it juicy and energetic. So alive. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

80% Whole bunch. This has real intense power at its core. Broad fruit, deep red and some black notes - but all well ripened and full on. Pure and yet quite charmingly crowd-pleasing matter lies at80% Whole bunch. This has real intense power at its core. Broad fruit, deep red and some black notes - but all well ripened and full on. Pure and yet quite charmingly crowd-pleasing matter lies at the core of this - and it is delivered in a very polished way. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux Domaine Lignier-Michelot

100% Whole Bunch here in 2017, Virgile always uses quite a lot with this wine, but this year he lost some fruit (he's down to just 3 barrels) and he needed the stems in the cuve to help fill it up.100% Whole Bunch here in 2017, Virgile always uses quite a lot with this wine, but this year he lost some fruit (he's down to just 3 barrels) and he needed the stems in the cuve to help fill it up. There is no pigeage this year as Virgile is more and more into delicate extraction, in 2017 he found such ripeness in the stems - that the wine is naturally concentrated and intense. Initially there is a little more reserve on the fruit side at, a little more structure here. Nicely framed by some very fine tannin. Fruit does build though and is really quite luxuriant when it builds. The long finish has some of that fine scrape of mineral dust and a brisk freshness. Good. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and a minerality that begins to tussle for superiority over the fruit. Lovely balance. Fruit is rich and loaded with good cherry notes, and yet the mineral core is superb also. Impressive stuff and just a little more muscle and grunt than the humdinger from Stephan Magnien. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

All silk and elegance, this initially somes across as less punchily concentrated than the Faconnieres, but it is fabulously balanced and sleek, and all in supple length. Dark fruit expression, long,All silk and elegance, this initially somes across as less punchily concentrated than the Faconnieres, but it is fabulously balanced and sleek, and all in supple length. Dark fruit expression, long, long finish.L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.

The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.

The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Maconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Cote de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard, in the same way.

Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. At the dinner after our 7th January tasting this year, we had a bottle of the 1996 'village' Chambolle, still hanging on and gloriously scented, While a 2006 and 2007 Grand Clos des Épenots from de Courcel showed two brilliantly realised wines in the style of their respective vintages that are just hitting their stride.

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Intense again. Toffee and chewy dates and hard plums. This is brooding and dark and loaded with fruit. Fine tannins, long and intense. Smooth yet quite dense for now but it flows so well in a VosneIntense again. Toffee and chewy dates and hard plums. This is brooding and dark and loaded with fruit. Fine tannins, long and intense. Smooth yet quite dense for now but it flows so well in a Vosne sort of way. This is firm still and tightly wound yet, sexy and sleek - the future looks great but we must be patient! Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is direct, cleanly mineral and there is good gentle grip. After tasting the Chambolle you are struck by a firmer line and and more taut feel, as you would expect here from Yves. This frameThis is direct, cleanly mineral and there is good gentle grip. After tasting the Chambolle you are struck by a firmer line and and more taut feel, as you would expect here from Yves. This frame carries lovely fruit - dark and joyous. Long running and intense. More damsons and blackberries giving acidity. Long and delicious and pure feel with drive. Enticing now but this will no doubt fill out with more time and become even more joyful. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Plump red fruit and a heady rose water nose. This is just so open and inviting. Plenty of richness on the palate too and a satisfying bit of grip on the finish. A very impressive village Chambolle. Plump red fruit and a heady rose water nose. This is just so open and inviting. Plenty of richness on the palate too and a satisfying bit of grip on the finish. A very impressive village Chambolle. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This vineyard is on the Vosne side of Nuits - and you sense that influence on the style here - even if the Confuron feel is still strong. There are violets on the nose, lovely floral dried petalsThis vineyard is on the Vosne side of Nuits - and you sense that influence on the style here - even if the Confuron feel is still strong. There are violets on the nose, lovely floral dried petals and interesting deeply rich fruit. More serious middle. Firm core, some leather and stones. Tough earthy minerality. Powerful flavour, but delivered with a nice fine feel. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Craipillot Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Craipillot Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Confuron's premier crus can sometimes be a little brooding at this very early stage in their life but not a bit of it here. This tempts you straight in with a nose packed full of cassis, dark cherryConfuron's premier crus can sometimes be a little brooding at this very early stage in their life but not a bit of it here. This tempts you straight in with a nose packed full of cassis, dark cherry and fragrant spice. The entry is full, glossy, and bursting with sumptuous fruit. The tannins are super-fine too. This should be ready to drink well before the 2015 and 2016. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Like the village Chambolle this is open, ripe and inviting on the nose but there's a noticeable step up in terms of concentration and intensity on the palate. There's more structure too but theLike the village Chambolle this is open, ripe and inviting on the nose but there's a noticeable step up in terms of concentration and intensity on the palate. There's more structure too but the tannins seem to unfurl gracefully as you go. It's hard not to smile when tasting this. A poised, complex and immensely satisfying wine. Drinking range: 2024 - 2034L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This shares the gloss and sumptuousness of the Craipillot but there's an extra lift and brightness to the mid-palate which stands it apart. The fruit feels a touch fresher and has a bit more moreThis shares the gloss and sumptuousness of the Craipillot but there's an extra lift and brightness to the mid-palate which stands it apart. The fruit feels a touch fresher and has a bit more more 'crunch'. Then come those lovely fine tannins that build and build on the hugely impressive finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is heady stuff. The seductive dark fruit builds and builds. There is tremendous concentration and richness on the palate. The tannins are enveloping at this point but it's the perfect frame forThis is heady stuff. The seductive dark fruit builds and builds. There is tremendous concentration and richness on the palate. The tannins are enveloping at this point but it's the perfect frame for all that ripeness. This will doubtless need quite a bit of time in bottle but it shows tremendous promise. A magnificent wine in the making. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is more restrained at the moment. The fruit has a darker tone and enormous concentration. You feel the mineral undertow much more than in the other premier crus. Then there's that immaculateThis is more restrained at the moment. The fruit has a darker tone and enormous concentration. You feel the mineral undertow much more than in the other premier crus. Then there's that immaculate texture and such appetising weight of fruit. The finish is astoundingly long and rather more savoury than the Craipillot. It's a beguiling mix of poise and power but it will need a bit of time to blossom fully. Drinking range: 2026 - 2036L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

There is a buzz here. Lovely pert, deeply dark fruit. But this is upfront and ripe flavoured middle. Lots of spice, lots of whole bunch chewiness. I like the power very much, there is leather andThere is a buzz here. Lovely pert, deeply dark fruit. But this is upfront and ripe flavoured middle. Lots of spice, lots of whole bunch chewiness. I like the power very much, there is leather and damson and morello cherry that builds to a darkness that descends to shroud the palate. Serious dark fruit and brooding depth. Great feel though such suave texture of tannins. This is one of the few 2017s that you can see really will need time. Impressive stuff with one heck of a journey ahead. Tuck away for at least 10 years and it will be a joy well in to its second decade. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Tasted after the Echezeaux in the cellar with Yves there is a more delicate, layered nose here - with dried herbs and more leafy edged fruit. The fruit is brighter too, more acidity and perk - butTasted after the Echezeaux in the cellar with Yves there is a more delicate, layered nose here - with dried herbs and more leafy edged fruit. The fruit is brighter too, more acidity and perk - but delicious and so rich for the house, so smoothly fruited despite only a third way through the malo wehn we tasted. A powerfully stacked Charmes, but loaded with rich intensity. This is generous and delicious. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is alive with energy. Pings around your mouth. Despite the epic scale and density. Laden with lovely, brooding wild-berry fruit. The rich, concentrated middle,is dominated by dark fruit but withThis is alive with energy. Pings around your mouth. Despite the epic scale and density. Laden with lovely, brooding wild-berry fruit. The rich, concentrated middle,is dominated by dark fruit but with a lovely weight a lovely ripeness. Framed closely for now with fine, supple tannins - but the depth of fruit, the acidity and the drive are all there. This is very impressive indeed. This has a lot to give, one for the cellar. Drinking range: 2024 - 2034L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Joseph Drouhin

For the last 130 years, Maison Joseph Drouhin has been in the hands of the Drouhin family. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm, still driven by the same passions that inspired the founder - and it remains one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy.

With this release of 2017s it is clear to see why. Not satisfied to rest on their laurels; each year small refinements continue to be made in how they operate. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open. The use of whole-bunch fermentation is now widespread. For the 2017s it makes up between 30-100% of the juice with all the Grand Cru wines and in varying amounts this process contributes to their other Red wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it.

Véronique Drouhin summed up the 2017 vintage as one that was warmer than normal, with over 200 hours of sunshine above the average and also a deficit in water over the year compared to normal. This seems to give a very appetising suppleness to some of the wines and an enticing immediacy too - yet they are far from rich or thick retaining some great finesse - particularly as you go up the 'ladder'.

Warm and dry as the data shows - it was not a totally straightforward vintage with pressure coming in the crucial month of April as the temperatures plummeted. However, thanks to lessons learnt in 2016 and the canny use of smoke to stop the sun burning the frozen vines - crisis was averted. The results speak for themselves. The 2017s have excellent maturity and they ended with quite a good-sized crop. Chassagne for Véronique was the most successful village - with pure lines and acidity - but there are some fantastic reds here as well.

Domaine-Joseph-Drouhin
2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Drouhin's 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with an appealing bouquet of raspberries, plums, licorice, spices and dried rose petals that exemplifies the appellation atDrouhin's 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with an appealing bouquet of raspberries, plums, licorice, spices and dried rose petals that exemplifies the appellation at its best. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with superb concentration and depth, striking purity of fruit and juicy balancing acids, concluding with a long, precise finish. This routinely excellent cuvée—which is mainly made from estate fruit—continues to fly a bit under the radar, so readers would do well to seek it out. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jan 2019)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Baudes Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Baudes Joseph Drouhin

Better balance and poise than the Nuits village tasted before. Really quite nice ripeness to the fruit. An easy, satisfying Chambolle-Musigny - not simple, but perhaps not with the extreme delicacyBetter balance and poise than the Nuits village tasted before. Really quite nice ripeness to the fruit. An easy, satisfying Chambolle-Musigny - not simple, but perhaps not with the extreme delicacy you might be hunting as a Chambolle purist. Easy with a supple juiciness and pleasing.L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Cazetiers Joseph Drouhin

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Cazetiers Joseph Drouhin

At our London tasting, this was remarkable, standing up well to the massive and spectacular Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze, which came before it in the line-up. Bright, it certainly did not lackAt our London tasting, this was remarkable, standing up well to the massive and spectacular Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze, which came before it in the line-up. Bright, it certainly did not lack weight, but it's very much in the idiom of Drouhin reds, with intense fruit driven by a juicy acidity in lively balance which gives it surprising impact. Juicy acidity carries the velvet red and black fruit ain a beautiful long harmony. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

25-35% whole-bunch fermentation here and 30% New Oak. This is surprisingly restrained. Great power and pent up energy. For now though it is quite well pact. Very good fruit. Just enough chew, but25-35% whole-bunch fermentation here and 30% New Oak. This is surprisingly restrained. Great power and pent up energy. For now though it is quite well pact. Very good fruit. Just enough chew, but something more leafy too. Lovely peppy acidity keeps things flowing. Good promise for a fine future comes from the buzzing finish. The Drouhins changed their source of Chrmes fruit a few years ago and this is certainly a step up. Although they do not own this, they do rate the vigneron highly and you can see why. Big cask ‘Integrale’ fermentation again 100% whole clusters for some of the juice. Adds shape and flow. Charming. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GRANDS ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

2017 GRANDS ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

35% Whole Clusters, 30% New Oak. This is another of their own vineyards. Right at the top left side of the Grands Echezeaux - beyond Clos Vougeot as you look to the côte from the road. This has35% Whole Clusters, 30% New Oak. This is another of their own vineyards. Right at the top left side of the Grands Echezeaux - beyond Clos Vougeot as you look to the côte from the road. This has more pep and grip and intensity. Beautifully aromatic and gentle on the nose but this certainly tastes like it has a future. The fruit is nicely ripe and has a certain sweet note, the feel is luxurious. Ripe but well held by the acidity and darker lined edge of some wood and meatier black fruit working in harmony with the build of spicy tannins. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GRIOTTE CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 GRIOTTE CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Very much a case of small is beautiful, Griotte may be the least expansive of Gevrey's grands crus, but the quality of the wines it produces is often outstanding. This is fresh, balanced andVery much a case of small is beautiful, Griotte may be the least expansive of Gevrey's grands crus, but the quality of the wines it produces is often outstanding. This is fresh, balanced and enticingly perfumed, with 40% whole bunches and 40% new wood. Graceful and pure, it skates rather than stumbles across the palate, all supple berry fruit and precision. Drinking range: 2024 - 2029 Rating: 95-95 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Nicely rich. Some cocoa-powder like dusting. Fruit is nice, rich plum juice and some firmer darker berries too. A cooler drive and a nice feel. Fruit ripens as it opens on the palate. 40% WholeNicely rich. Some cocoa-powder like dusting. Fruit is nice, rich plum juice and some firmer darker berries too. A cooler drive and a nice feel. Fruit ripens as it opens on the palate. 40% Whole cluster. This is serious and seriously charming too. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Loads of blue-earth and gunmetal aromas with raspberries, blueberries and lemon zest. Full to medium body, chewy tannins and crunchiness and richness at the end. Linear, very tight and persistent onLoads of blue-earth and gunmetal aromas with raspberries, blueberries and lemon zest. Full to medium body, chewy tannins and crunchiness and richness at the end. Linear, very tight and persistent on the finish. Bang! Give this a number of years to come around. Drink after 2022. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 97-97 Nick Stock, www.jamessuckling.com(Feb 2019)

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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
Thibault-Liger-Belair
2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Les Grands Chaillots Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Les Grands Chaillots Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has really refined this great value wine in 2017. Some of this fruit comes from Chambolle - he uses 20% whole bunch in 2017 and the very slow, delicate vinification avoids pigeage. 20% newThibault has really refined this great value wine in 2017. Some of this fruit comes from Chambolle - he uses 20% whole bunch in 2017 and the very slow, delicate vinification avoids pigeage. 20% new wood. The results are super, a delicate and supple fruit weight builds here - there is gentle drive and great intensity. From an easy attack with some pep and the slow-burning gentle fruit - the wine builds up to a fully satisfying, sleekly elegant Pinot Noir. Clever stuff and very good to taste. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Jan 2019)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Vieilles Vignes Thibault Liger-Belair

Sadly the 2017 is the last vintage of this, as the owner is taking it back. What a shame, as it is really impressive! Inviting feel on the attack, with nicely ripe fruit. Good weight to it and niceSadly the 2017 is the last vintage of this, as the owner is taking it back. What a shame, as it is really impressive! Inviting feel on the attack, with nicely ripe fruit. Good weight to it and nice flowing shape. Just a scrape of texture from some appetising mineral dusting. The up-front fruit is lovely soft strawberry and raspberry - but there is a darker line too, running through it, a shadow of more serious power. Fine-grained texture. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The steady progression of this domaine has been fascinating to watch as Thibault gradually refines his approach to each parcel of vines, and there can be no question with the commissioning of his new state of the art cellar this year that the 2016s are among the best he has ever made. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum, with wood chosen and aged by him, and barrels made with almost no toasting. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.
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2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Clos du Prieuré Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Clos du Prieuré Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

From vines ten kilometres west of Nuits, on white marl and limestone. The vineyard has great exposition on a 40%, south facing slope. This is always ready to pick at a similar moment to the CôteFrom vines ten kilometres west of Nuits, on white marl and limestone. The vineyard has great exposition on a 40%, south facing slope. This is always ready to pick at a similar moment to the Côte wines, the first of his Haut Côtes to be harvested every year. Quite a rich and fleshy nose, Very generous feel. Ripe and well-laden fruit core. Intense, soft fine tannins - verging on cooked plums and sweet cherry juice. Cleverly this does manage to keep a fine feel though - really quite sophisticated from this part of the world. Well done! Drinking range: 2021 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Corvée de Villy Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS Corvée de Villy Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

This vineyard has lots of very white limestone - from where they originally got material to make white tiles. He says therefore that he does not feel the need to use whole bunch Such sweet fruitThis vineyard has lots of very white limestone - from where they originally got material to make white tiles. He says therefore that he does not feel the need to use whole bunch Such sweet fruit here - really pretty. Smart projection. delicate and then some grip grows too. This is really good and fresh. Jolly wine with attractive fruit and pleasingly fresh, great restraint of mineralité in the background. 1/3 new wood. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Charmotte Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Charmotte Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

On the Vosne side - and quite a limestone soil. He also incorporates 40% whole bunch which certainly does add a thrilling tension and some angles - but nothing too punchy - or distracting from theOn the Vosne side - and quite a limestone soil. He also incorporates 40% whole bunch which certainly does add a thrilling tension and some angles - but nothing too punchy - or distracting from the nice cleanly cleaved fruit. After tasting the Gevrey, this is more like it! Slow gentle attack builds nicely. Fruit core is pretty, with good energy and nice bright lines. Fun to drink. More lifted and with more tension and nicely perky lines of acidity keeping the flow constant. Not overdone just well measured. Good and pretty. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Aux Réas Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Aux Réas Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Heavily limestone dominated soil here, so once again, Thibault felt no need to include any whole bunches this year. Always quite a saline terroir but Thibault believes even more so in 2017 withHeavily limestone dominated soil here, so once again, Thibault felt no need to include any whole bunches this year. Always quite a saline terroir but Thibault believes even more so in 2017 with whiffs of iodine even. The intense more savoury notes really do measure the weight of fruit nicely. This has a pretty shape and delicate lines. More saline yes - lovely mineral freshness, but some pretty fruit is there too. This is going to be a freshly elegant Vosne. Good and smart stuff. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interestingThibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interesting soil here which has some clay but a very high density of small white pebbles which changes everything. He had to do 2 distinct harvests here. First to pick off the best bunches for whole bunch fermenting and the second is all destemmed fruit. This is broadly structured with good shoulders. More upright and more intense than the Vosne and there is a dry line which underscores this classy core of more weighty, sleek fruit. Some blueberry and plumskin measure the ripe feel - joined by warm raspberries and a more leafy edge. Good juicy acidity too balances the weight nicely. THis is a very smart, accessible Nuits from Thibault. Recommended.. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Aux Charmes Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Aux Charmes Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault Liger-Belair's Charmes-Chambertin comes from the Aux Charmes climat, close to Chambertin. Made with 70% whole bunches (with the central stem removed) and 100% new wood, this is fresh, sappyThibault Liger-Belair's Charmes-Chambertin comes from the Aux Charmes climat, close to Chambertin. Made with 70% whole bunches (with the central stem removed) and 100% new wood, this is fresh, sappy and very aromatic, with subtle wood, some clove and white pepper spice and good underlying minerality and tension, as the French like to say. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Two thirds of this fruit comes from his plot of older vines planted at the end of the 2nd World War - which he does a lot of 'stemwork' on - these whole bunches account for 40%. The final thirdTwo thirds of this fruit comes from his plot of older vines planted at the end of the 2nd World War - which he does a lot of 'stemwork' on - these whole bunches account for 40%. The final third comes from much younger plot on the Echezeaux side, these vines were planted in 2012 and are all destemmed. Tasted after the Corton you are struck immediatley by the more structured frame. Intense and powerful. There is an earthy grunt, a compacted mineral drive through the middle. Crunchy fruit - a wilder side. Unmistakably serious, grand cru lines which are joyfully gilded with nicely brambling fruit and lots spice. A 'lifting' energy builds. Very good, sophisticated. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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