* Last Chance Whites *

2017 is definitely the best white wine vintage Burgundy has seen since 2014. The top wines have been very sought-after and some will never make it onto the shop shelves. Now may be the only chance you get to secure some for your cellar. That's why we've put together this list of the best whites for which we still have some availability but don't dally, in many cases we are down to our last six or dozen bottles. You can also DOWNLOAD THE LIST in excel format.


This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

Domaine Moreau-Naudet

We still miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016, but there is no question that the domaine has proved to be in exceptionally capable hands under his widow Virginie, helped by Stéphane's team.

Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago) was a consummate vigneron, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. He was also a master-craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.

Domaine-Moreau-Naudet
2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Montmains Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Tasted in October from the tank - the nose is more subdued here than on the Vaillons. And yet the feel here is richer and weightier. Great breadth in the mouth. The mineral side of this is serious,Tasted in October from the tank - the nose is more subdued here than on the Vaillons. And yet the feel here is richer and weightier. Great breadth in the mouth. The mineral side of this is serious, clean and scrubbed - this has a suedey texture to finish and lovely soft spice. Impressive impact.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Laurent Tribut

Laurent Tribut is married to Vincent Dauvissat's sister, Marie Clotilde. When he started he made his wines in the Dauvissat cellar in Chablis, but now this small family-run domaine is based in Poinchy. You could not hope to meet a more charming and mild-mannered man as Laurent. He is a quiet genius, making some of the purest and most classical wines in the appellation.

This year it was great to get to know three (Solange, Adeline and Gabriel) of Laurent's four children who all now work with him. With his guidance the future here looks very bright. With just 6 hectares the quantities are small - but the quality of all his cuvées is extraordinary. Pure, powerfully driven, classically shaped there is more than a passing similarity to the wines of his brother-in-law the head-line grabbing Vincent Dauvissat. Buyers will enjoy these super wines with some time in bottle too - they have a great ability to age and patience will pay off, we recently tasted the 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2004 with Laurent in his cellar and it was bright, young and full of vigour - nearly 15 years on. This is brilliant, classic Chablis made by a quiet maestro.

Domaine-Laurent-Tribut
2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine Laurent Tribut

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine Laurent Tribut

The Beauroy is, as ever, a touch richer than the other wines here. It is more intense in every way with a gently savoury note of hard cheese, some iodine and then a great clean, brighter 'Chablis'The Beauroy is, as ever, a touch richer than the other wines here. It is more intense in every way with a gently savoury note of hard cheese, some iodine and then a great clean, brighter 'Chablis' core. The energy is great with a super mineral push. Classic lines and nice shape. Balance is so good between the acidity and weight, the fruit and the savoury edge - spot on Chablis and finishes as clean as a whistle. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Côte de Léchet Domaine Laurent Tribut

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Côte de Léchet Domaine Laurent Tribut

After tasting the Beauroy this is a total shift in gear. Immediately brighter, tighter with a pow of clean minerality. The fruit is intense and tight for now but loaded with lovely lemon skin andAfter tasting the Beauroy this is a total shift in gear. Immediately brighter, tighter with a pow of clean minerality. The fruit is intense and tight for now but loaded with lovely lemon skin and some pert grapefruit bite. Much more on the citrus line here in the middle, but then the saltiness and clean dusty textured minerality kicks in. Pure, precise and very sleek. A wow wine this year. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

The Beaune-based merchant Joseph Drouhin has restyled its Chablis Domaine 'Domaine Drouhin-Vaudon' to emphasise its ties with and holdings in (38 hectares) the Chablis vineyard. The Moulin de Vaudon, an 18th Century watermill straddling the Serein River, close to the Grand Cru vineyards of Chablis, is the headquarters and the source of the name. It is the largest estate in Chablis entirely farmed biodynamically.
Domaine-Drouhin-Vaudon
2017 CHABLIS Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

2017 CHABLIS Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

We tasted 4 of the Chablis from Drouhin which all impressed, but this Les Clos is a definitive notch up. Raised in large (500l), old barrels to limit the 'wood impact' on this full and deliciousWe tasted 4 of the Chablis from Drouhin which all impressed, but this Les Clos is a definitive notch up. Raised in large (500l), old barrels to limit the 'wood impact' on this full and delicious juice. Good weight and breadth and a nice big ample middle. A sweep of pithy apple. Generous and delicious. Mineral line builds adding nice shape and push - then some good dusty spice kicks in on the back palate. This generous feeling Chablis is big and yet has just the right pinch of acidity making it juicy and moreish. Smart Chablis, but with a feel of fun and joy - and highly recommended. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau

Frantz Chagnoleau and his wife Caroline Gon, who is also the winemaker at the Comte Lafon Mâcon operation, are rising stars of the Mâconnais. Together they have a small domaine consisting of 3.5 hectares of Mâcon in a single block in Saint Albain, and several small plots in Viré Clessé, Saint Véran and Pouilly Fuissé, making up 6.8 hectares in total. All the vineyards are organically farmed (Ecocert certified).

Great care is taken at harvest to pick at the optimum monent for sugars, acidity and aromatic precursors, and they will stop the picking between parcels if they think that the ripening is not even across the whole domaine. Grapes are manually picked into 25kg cases, so as to get whole, undamaged grapes to the winery. After careful pressing, a very non-interventionist vinifcation takes place with natural yeasts in oak foudres.

The wines are kept on the lees to preserve freshness until the beginning of summer, when they are racked and lightly filtered, before bottling before the next harvest, except for some of the top wines which are aged for another six months in tank in order to develop fully. The wines are expressive and pure and well worth seeking out.

In 2017 they started picking on the 25th August, which was just as well, because acidities dropped after the 70-80mm of rain which fell on the 2nd and 3rd of September. Good ripeness (13.5% max) and good acidities. The vines did not suffer as they had in 2015 - there was more water. Frantz feels that there is more concentration and aroma than in 2011, and wines which are more accessible young than the 2016s.

2017 SAINT VÉRAN La Fournaise Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau

2017 SAINT VÉRAN La Fournaise Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau

The most mineral land the domaine possesses - 'as close to Chablis as we get', says Frantz. 40 year old vines on an east-facing slope at 300m altitude. Pale silvery green. Sherbet lemons on the nose,The most mineral land the domaine possesses - 'as close to Chablis as we get', says Frantz. 40 year old vines on an east-facing slope at 300m altitude. Pale silvery green. Sherbet lemons on the nose, ripe, there's no lack of concentration and energy. Crackling as with electricity - and so bright and long.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT VÉRAN La Roche Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau

2017 SAINT VÉRAN La Roche Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau

The oldest vines of the domaine, in Chasselas. A good pale gold. Usually the most concentrated wine of the domaine, says Frantz 'magnifcent soils, calcareous rubble on the surface, but 30cm down it'sThe oldest vines of the domaine, in Chasselas. A good pale gold. Usually the most concentrated wine of the domaine, says Frantz 'magnifcent soils, calcareous rubble on the surface, but 30cm down it's blue marl and the vines never suffer from drought - it's a nicely balanced vineyard'. This is properly rich - there's power and density, not the most expressive nose (but still eight months élevage to go), but the palate is concentrated, pinging with energy and mineral.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Daniel Barraud

Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.

All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.

As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud

Pale after the 'La Verchère', quite a shy nose, then great purity. Volume and a supple delicate fresh liquid touch - lemon and ripe yellow citrus lifts it - energy and mineral purity are thePale after the 'La Verchère', quite a shy nose, then great purity. Volume and a supple delicate fresh liquid touch - lemon and ripe yellow citrus lifts it - energy and mineral purity are the keynotes. Immensely long. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

En Buland is like La Roche with a touch of la Verchère, and then more than either of them. Big and bold on the palate after a shy and retiring nose. Savoury, saline and voluminously ripe too. IntenseEn Buland is like La Roche with a touch of la Verchère, and then more than either of them. Big and bold on the palate after a shy and retiring nose. Savoury, saline and voluminously ripe too. Intense all the way through, the most complete of all, and very long. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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Domaine François Lumpp

François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by two of their children, Pierre and Anne-Cécile.

François is a passionate viticulturalist and places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results (often at the expense of yield).

2017 has produced a very generous style for both the whites and the reds in Givry making the tasting from barrel extremely enjoyable. The reds are dominated by rich, glossy dark fruit and fresh acidity. It is no surprise that Tim Atkin described Francois Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' High praise indeed and luckily for us, this has not been reflected in the price - the Lumpp wines still offers great value for money.

2017 GIVRY Blanc 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

2017 GIVRY Blanc 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

A more intense, driven quality to the Premier cru, this has a natural elegance and juicy length along with a greater intensity of fruit concentration.A more intense, driven quality to the Premier cru, this has a natural elegance and juicy length along with a greater intensity of fruit concentration. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial is simply the leading domaine of the Côte Chalonnaise. What is more, the astonishing Vincent Dureuil is equally adept at making both white and red wines. Vincent inherited from the Janthial side of his family, who have been in Rully since the eighteenth century. Vincent and his wife Céline took over in 1994. As they say 'because wine is first grown in the vineyard, we have chosen to respect the land and let live the soils and vineyards to produce committed and accurate wines, of great purity and a frank personality.'

The domaine now extends to 20 hectares, 17 in the Côte Chalonnaise (primarily Rully and Mercurey) with 3 hectares in the Côte d'Or, including vines inherited by Céline in Nuits Saint Georges, and some inherited by Vincent in Puligny. The domaine was certified organic in 2009, but after short harvests in 2012 and 2013, Vincent was forced by a late attack of mildew in 2016 to spray with fungicide. The result was that he saved 5 hectares out of the 20, but lost his certification. Stubbornly he immediately set about the three years of 'conversion' he must do before he can be certified again. For this perfectionist, being 'nearly organic' does not quite cut it.

2017 RULLY BLANC Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY BLANC Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Lovely nose with ripe pears - round and ripe and open, but still taut and bright and fresh to the finish.Lovely nose with ripe pears - round and ripe and open, but still taut and bright and fresh to the finish. Drinking range: 2019 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Vauvry Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Vauvry Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Vauvry reads this year like a combination of the sunny, fleshy 'Maizieres', and the tauter, brighter, firmer 'Chênes'. Fuller that either of them, it has a lovely bright definition and length.Vauvry reads this year like a combination of the sunny, fleshy 'Maizieres', and the tauter, brighter, firmer 'Chênes'. Fuller that either of them, it has a lovely bright definition and length. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Margoté Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Margoté Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Very rich, very intense, then pure and straight and fine. Lovely combination of richness and mineral.Very rich, very intense, then pure and straight and fine. Lovely combination of richness and mineral. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. Now he has decided to leave, making a token 1800 or so bottles in 2016, before starting in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.

Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2017 he used no S02 until just before bottling, but if there's some botrytis he will add it earlier.

Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos du Meix Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos du Meix Domaine Joseph Colin

Bright, firm, with a fine line of mineral - great precision. It is high up in the village and the acidity is more pronounced, but it is this that gives it the glittering definition.Bright, firm, with a fine line of mineral - great precision. It is high up in the village and the acidity is more pronounced, but it is this that gives it the glittering definition.L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Les Combes Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Les Combes Domaine Joseph Colin

A vineyard next to Chassagne Petingeret, up at the top of the slope in the stones. Quite a big wine, a deeper yellow-gold, with a lovely, almost lush, ripe citrus pulp - lovely and mouthfilling.A vineyard next to Chassagne Petingeret, up at the top of the slope in the stones. Quite a big wine, a deeper yellow-gold, with a lovely, almost lush, ripe citrus pulp - lovely and mouthfilling. Totally yummy density, and pinging with fresh acidity and a little saline touch on the finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Sous la Roche Dumay Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Sous la Roche Dumay Domaine Joseph Colin

This vineyard also goes under the name 'Sur Gamay', which describes very clearly where it is, above the hamlet of Gamay, under the imposing rock that takes its name from a M. Dumay. Joseph isThis vineyard also goes under the name 'Sur Gamay', which describes very clearly where it is, above the hamlet of Gamay, under the imposing rock that takes its name from a M. Dumay. Joseph is obviously right to think that this name is more attractive, and the wine is too - it's a sunny spot, warmer and with a lovely combination of ripeness and mineral soil, making for a wine with good 'thickness', even to look at in the glass, and a very straight, fine line of mineral expression, giving away its proximity to the Dents de Chien. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Chatenière Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Chatenière Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph describes his plot in Chatenière as late-ripening - he picks it last of all - making fresh, bright wines. It is so steep that he leaves it grassed-over to avoid erosion. But 2017 was a hotJoseph describes his plot in Chatenière as late-ripening - he picks it last of all - making fresh, bright wines. It is so steep that he leaves it grassed-over to avoid erosion. But 2017 was a hot year and the grapes small, and this has a lovely core of fruit and a soft touch on the palate despite the good acidity. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru En Rémilly Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru En Rémilly Domaine Joseph Colin

From two parcels, one in les Cortons, one in Rémilly proper. Straight, intense, pure.From two parcels, one in les Cortons, one in Rémilly proper. Straight, intense, pure.L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Chenevottes Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Chenevottes Domaine Joseph Colin

Fleshy expression like the Saint Aubin la Combe. Saline too, but even richer. A lovely savoury edge which gives it almost an umami feel. Long, chewy mineral finish.Fleshy expression like the Saint Aubin la Combe. Saline too, but even richer. A lovely savoury edge which gives it almost an umami feel. Long, chewy mineral finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Joseph Colin

A great classic of a vineyard, and as it sounds, a rocky, white soil, very mineral. Discreet nose, very pure and straight. Rock crystal elegance here, very fine - there's thickness of body yet totalA great classic of a vineyard, and as it sounds, a rocky, white soil, very mineral. Discreet nose, very pure and straight. Rock crystal elegance here, very fine - there's thickness of body yet total purity. Magical site-specific combination of ripeness and brightness. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin

Garenne is high on the slope, in the hamlet of Blagny. While it ripens well, it always remains a 'tonique' style, with a slight citrus skin bitterness. 'The vintage makes little difference here -Garenne is high on the slope, in the hamlet of Blagny. While it ripens well, it always remains a 'tonique' style, with a slight citrus skin bitterness. 'The vintage makes little difference here - it's pretty much always like this - but it needs to be ripe, like Vide Bourse. I try to pick it over 13%', says Joseph. Pale bright silvery-gold. Good straight nose with mineral and citrus, fat and complete on the palate, very well-defined crystalline feel, the subtle citrus core giving a nice balance and length. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Hubert Lamy

A domaine with 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are spread over Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Olivier Lamy's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2017, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The 2017 whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness. 2017 brought no relief from the recent small harvests - thanks to early frosts which nipped the buds, yields were 10-20hl/ha in the Bourgogne and village Saint Aubins, so volumes are still decidedly short.

Olivier says of the vintage '2017 will be a solar year but very balanced with ripe wines at the beginning of the mouth and finishing on freshness, minerality, tension and a lot of energy. The élevage will be 24 months without any new wood to keep more freshness. The wines are nicely balanced, revealing aromas of citrus fruits. They are pure, fresh and mineral wines. Their chiselled and precise character means they will keep well.". As for the reds, he says 'This vintage gave very healthy red grapes, so a good proportion of the whole bunches was kept in vatting. Ruby colours, a complex nose, floral, fruity and spicy, the concentration in the mouth and soft and pleasant tannins characterise these wines which express nice notes of fresh fruits. All finesse, they show all the elements of great Burgundian red wines.'

2017 SANTENAY 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SANTENAY 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

You can taste the sun on this wine, like sun on hot rock - ripe and minerally with a lovely texture, taut and bright and firm, very straight.You can taste the sun on this wine, like sun on hot rock - ripe and minerally with a lovely texture, taut and bright and firm, very straight. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy

Very bright pale colour, a délice from start to finish: a slight bitterness keeps the freshness - full-flavoured, ripe and long. Lots of richness here.Very bright pale colour, a délice from start to finish: a slight bitterness keeps the freshness - full-flavoured, ripe and long. Lots of richness here. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier’s parcel is more Chassagne facing, the vineyard slopes one way towards St Aubn and the other to Chassagne and this face is clearly warmer. Vey quick maturation in this vineyard - also thereOlivier’s parcel is more Chassagne facing, the vineyard slopes one way towards St Aubn and the other to Chassagne and this face is clearly warmer. Vey quick maturation in this vineyard - also there is the wall, so no wind. This is quite tropical. Hint of pineapple. Not a thick texture, not so much viscosity as you might expect. However a lot of concentration and matter. Slight stoney, but the aromatics and fruit overwhelm the minerality at this stage, but this is early days.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.

Domaine-Fernand-Laurent-Pillot
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Fairandes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Fairandes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Brighter and more perk, more poise than the Morgeot tasted just before. It is because it is so different that Laurent has started making it as a separate wine when he can. It is from right up at theBrighter and more perk, more poise than the Morgeot tasted just before. It is because it is so different that Laurent has started making it as a separate wine when he can. It is from right up at the top of Morgeot bang next door to the Grandes Ruchottes vineyard. It is so expressive Laurent likes to keep it apart - and it is great that he does. A gorgeously juicy middle. Super lemon and soft citrus juice. Very succulent and inviting. The bright start mellows but the flow and energy remain. impressive depth revealed at finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The creaminess is evident on the nose. Clearly Meursault. The palate reveals precise, pure fruit, a touch of mineral tension but all wound up in a smooth, creamy, textured juice. ImmediatelyThe creaminess is evident on the nose. Clearly Meursault. The palate reveals precise, pure fruit, a touch of mineral tension but all wound up in a smooth, creamy, textured juice. Immediately appealing, this will give drinking pleasure for the next seven years. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give theThe Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give the wine a broad feel. It is well integrated and the bracing acidity gives it structure. Long finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

An enticing nose of smoke and flint. The entry is supple and sweet - there is good concentration of fruit supported by refined oak. A twinkle of acidity keeps the juice bright and poised. This isAn enticing nose of smoke and flint. The entry is supple and sweet - there is good concentration of fruit supported by refined oak. A twinkle of acidity keeps the juice bright and poised. This is very alluring. L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine Henri Germain

Jean-François Germain has been joined over the course of 2018 by his daughter Lucie - who is now helping to run this small (6.5ha) domaine.

The Chassagne vineyards came through his mother, a Pillot, and Jean-François is married to François Jobard's daughter, so they are quite intertwined with some of our other producers. In terms of winemaking the Germains are always happy to let nature take its course, and in the vineyards they follow as natural a system of viticulture as possible.

These are concentrated, tightly wound wines from one of Burgundy's coldest cellars. Slow to develop, they show wonderful crystalline purity. New wood is used sparingly.

Domaine-Henri-Germain
2017 MEURSAULT Chevalières Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT Chevalières Domaine Henri Germain

A freshness to the nose. The oak is not prominent. There is more creaminess here than the village but still defined by the wonderful acidity that gives it a lift. Super tension too and a lovelyA freshness to the nose. The oak is not prominent. There is more creaminess here than the village but still defined by the wonderful acidity that gives it a lift. Super tension too and a lovely citrus pep to the core. Great minerality too keeping it clean and bright - but that leaner fruit is key and nicely pushing. It has volume and texture but serious drive too. A classy Chevalières from Henri Germain. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT Limozin Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT Limozin Domaine Henri Germain

The Limozin feels more dense - there is a warming rich concentration of fruit and oak on the palate. The tongue is tingled by the evident acidity. The mineral frame works well with the green fruitThe Limozin feels more dense - there is a warming rich concentration of fruit and oak on the palate. The tongue is tingled by the evident acidity. The mineral frame works well with the green fruit and stone fruit flavours. Well balanced and pleasing. Super precision and succulently juicy. Long, glycerol coated finish.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Henri Germain

Pure and mineral. The Charmes has a cool feel to it - there is green fruit with good poise and lovely texture. The juice is weighty but with bright acidity that seems to be the trademark of the 2017Pure and mineral. The Charmes has a cool feel to it - there is green fruit with good poise and lovely texture. The juice is weighty but with bright acidity that seems to be the trademark of the 2017 vintage. It is certainly texture over flavour at this stage but plenty to look forward to. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzots Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzots Domaine Henri Germain

Flint and smoke on the nose. This re-appears on the creamy palate along with oak and toast. The oak lends itself well to the stone fruit flavour. It has good density and warmth. There is a vein ofFlint and smoke on the nose. This re-appears on the creamy palate along with oak and toast. The oak lends itself well to the stone fruit flavour. It has good density and warmth. There is a vein of acidity throughout that keeps it light on its feet. A fine Poruzots. L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Henri Germain

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Henri Germain

The Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot offers a change in scenery following a Meursault dominated tasting. Mineral, pure and clean. A hint of vanilla but there is nothing overpowering from the oak. CrushedThe Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot offers a change in scenery following a Meursault dominated tasting. Mineral, pure and clean. A hint of vanilla but there is nothing overpowering from the oak. Crushed rocks. Fruit lingering in the background. Crisp and striking. L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine Rémi Jobard

Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.

Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.

Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.

Domaine-Rémi-Jobard
2017 MEURSAULT Narvaux Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT Narvaux Domaine Rémi Jobard

This has pep. after the Luraule this has tingle and tighter zest to the fruit on the attack - all lime skin and lemon juice - tight middle. It feels young but in the mouth it spreads softly acrossThis has pep. after the Luraule this has tingle and tighter zest to the fruit on the attack - all lime skin and lemon juice - tight middle. It feels young but in the mouth it spreads softly across the palate. There is a gentle, creamier feel - a whiff of peach an yellow plum. Not fat as that lovely juicy acidity keeps it in check, but there is a fun generosity to the fruit which will do well with time. about 55 years old. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT Chevalières Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT Chevalières Domaine Rémi Jobard

Remi's vines here in Chevalières were planted in 1940. On the nose there is a whiff of smart, toasty oak for now. On the palate the juice is bright with a good citrus core, with some pineapple too,Remi's vines here in Chevalières were planted in 1940. On the nose there is a whiff of smart, toasty oak for now. On the palate the juice is bright with a good citrus core, with some pineapple too, really satisfying hit, there is lots to like in its vim and vigour, but there is a soft underside too. Ripe and generous, this amplitude is soft and sexy with spice and kick. A creamy feel. Great energy and drive - this will really reward patience. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard

The last time Remi produced a Charmes was in 2011 - he then grubbed up his parcel and re-planted. So the vines are just back on stream and producing impressive fruit. Despite the youth this hasThe last time Remi produced a Charmes was in 2011 - he then grubbed up his parcel and re-planted. So the vines are just back on stream and producing impressive fruit. Despite the youth this has superb matter to it. There is good lick and grainy grip to the core - and it is fully-loaded with flavour. Cox's apple and nice, warm lemon flesh. Concentrated and intense. This my be young, but is impressively broad with fruit and texture. This is full of youthful exuberance and delivers well. Remi has a well-placed plot in Charmes-Dessus. Charmes is always quite generous and broad - but the Dessus as opposed to the Bas plots always have more acidity and balance. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit.This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit. A creamy feel, that will slowly spread and emerge to be really decadent. Power and restraint for now. Impressive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

This is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. LongThis is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. Long and so persistent, without any force or pressure. Less 'wham' than the Poruzot - perhaps more finely tuned. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny, and with this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business. He makes wines that show well young, with complex exotic fruit aromas with the core of minerality, but they age well too. His daughter Lydie and son are now taking a more active role in the domaine.
Domaine-Jean-Marc-Boillot
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

(Their plot is very high up the Puligny slope and just next to Meursault Perrières) This is very attractive. Tighter than the Referts and the minerality here is more striking. There is a lovely(Their plot is very high up the Puligny slope and just next to Meursault Perrières) This is very attractive. Tighter than the Referts and the minerality here is more striking. There is a lovely acidity though as well. A real bright push - powerfully keeps the fruit moving. Pear and apple here - delicious firm flesh. Quite good breadth and richness too, but fresh. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Referts Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Referts Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Just next to the Meursault Charmes vineyard (a spot they share with Etienne Sauzet) This seems beefier and rounder than the village Puligny. There is a really good Puligny character. More definedJust next to the Meursault Charmes vineyard (a spot they share with Etienne Sauzet) This seems beefier and rounder than the village Puligny. There is a really good Puligny character. More defined and more intense. Some nuttiness, some great mineral drive too - this is deep, pure and intense. Nice clean mineral and citrus sweep at the finish.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Truffières Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Truffières Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

More focused. Not so tartly peppy - but fresh still. Good energy and great gentle power. Not as broadly intense as the Combettes, but more minerality here. Yet this has nice ripeness to the fruit tooMore focused. Not so tartly peppy - but fresh still. Good energy and great gentle power. Not as broadly intense as the Combettes, but more minerality here. Yet this has nice ripeness to the fruit too - just balanced by that freshness. We asked Lydie where the name comes from and she explained there is a wood here near this plot - with mushrooms - where the name comes from. Up high just below Blagny. Sadly no truffles though! Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Combettes Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Combettes Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Like the Champs Canet this is again on the Meursault side. Brighter, juicier with great pep to the citrus fruit. Some grip builds, some attractive texture This is concentrated - but fun and flowsLike the Champs Canet this is again on the Meursault side. Brighter, juicier with great pep to the citrus fruit. Some grip builds, some attractive texture This is concentrated - but fun and flows with good Puligny feel. Clean as a whistle, powerful and with lovely, tightly wound for now, joyous succulent fruit in its core.L&S(Oct 2018)

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Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants
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Domaine Henri Boillot

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.

The Domaine totals around 14 hectares, with roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. The 2017 vintage saw the arrival of two new parcels of Grand Cru red, in Échezeaux and Latricières Chambertin

In November 2018 we tasted with Henri while Guillaume was busy in the cellar, working on the just harvested 2018s, and he was very upbeat about the 2017s - rightly so. They harvested the whites between the 27th and 30th August - going early to preserve the energy which is increasingly a hallmark here.

Henri says this year is quite like 2016 but with a bit more weight he thinks. There is lovely acidity like the 2013s. He explains that 2017s have the same acidity as the 2016s - but with a note more glycerol which pads out the middle. The results are delicious, delectable wines you want to drink.

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzots Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzots Domaine Henri Boillot

This is perky and brightly inviting. A tangy, lemon note runs right through this and plays well alongside a charmingly, chalky mineral line. Pure and correct and very pretty Meursault.This is perky and brightly inviting. A tangy, lemon note runs right through this and plays well alongside a charmingly, chalky mineral line. Pure and correct and very pretty Meursault. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Henri Boillot

More pep and a frisson more energy and bounce than the Poruzots. Yet the middle is more open and laden with warm, almost grilled pineapple and crisper apple notes. Great spice too - but then a fineMore pep and a frisson more energy and bounce than the Poruzots. Yet the middle is more open and laden with warm, almost grilled pineapple and crisper apple notes. Great spice too - but then a fine taut line of acidity is succulent and mouth-watering. A really complex and interesting expression, delicious.L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Domaine Henri Boillot

Wow. Even after the Pucelles there is a jaw-droppingly impressive attack here - such weight and yet such ping and bright energy again. Then it gets into his stride and rolls along with such sleekWow. Even after the Pucelles there is a jaw-droppingly impressive attack here - such weight and yet such ping and bright energy again. Then it gets into his stride and rolls along with such sleek grace and unrelenting gentle push. There is breadth and power in abundance. A sophisticated big boy. Will repay the patient. Although like most of these gorgeous 2017s there is something immediately inviting here. L&S(Oct 2018)

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Domaine Faiveley

The Faiveley family are the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owning around 120ha, spread across the Côtes de Nuits, Beaune and Chalonnaise and encompassing everything from generic Bourgogne up to the grandest of Grand Crus. Their holdings supply the grapes for 5 out of every 6 bottles made by Faiveley, the balance being bought in from carefully selected contract growers. At the top end these wines are right up there with the best and in 2017 these are luxurious, showy and give unadulterated pleasure. As with so many producers this year each wine really has a sense of place and knows its spot on the pecking order. Some real delights here for drinkers.
Domaine-Faiveley
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Les Champgains Domaine Faiveley

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Les Champgains Domaine Faiveley

Slightly cloudy (cask sample). Those lovely pear aromas of recently fermented Chardonnay. A touch of spice and clementine, so seductive even though so young. Creamy, rich and deep. Generous, ripe butSlightly cloudy (cask sample). Those lovely pear aromas of recently fermented Chardonnay. A touch of spice and clementine, so seductive even though so young. Creamy, rich and deep. Generous, ripe but fresh. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)

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2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

A hard-to-beat Corton-Charlemagne in 2017, this comes from cool, east-facing vineyards that ripen very slowly, even in a warm year. Focussed, pithy and fizzing with energy, it's a rich, dense wineA hard-to-beat Corton-Charlemagne in 2017, this comes from cool, east-facing vineyards that ripen very slowly, even in a warm year. Focussed, pithy and fizzing with energy, it's a rich, dense wine with 40% new oak, creamy lees and a tangy, mouthwatering finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 97-97 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter(Dec 2018)

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Joseph Drouhin

Despite the size of their vineyard holding, not all Drouhin's wines come from their own domaine, but most of the other wines do come from long-term contracts, such as exists with the Marquis de Laguiche wines. In all but name these wines are 'Domaine' wines, and the vineyards are cared for and the wines vinified with exactly the same care.
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne Joseph Drouhin

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne Joseph Drouhin

Good drive and straight power from the off. This is seriously enticing. A mineral plain in the middle is fresh and broad through this very smart Puligny. There is a nice luminosity, a joyous liftedGood drive and straight power from the off. This is seriously enticing. A mineral plain in the middle is fresh and broad through this very smart Puligny. There is a nice luminosity, a joyous lifted brightness, no hard acidity or bracing clench - the feel is just pure, sleek and bright. A pure clean softness that is impressive and fun. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

Tasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has aTasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has a waxier feel, with essence of lemon skin and then a riper, sweet line of juice in the middle. Still well-furled but you can sense the good, soft flesh just waiting below the surface. Good intensity. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Perrières Joseph Drouhin

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Perrières Joseph Drouhin

Slightly hazy appearance. Fragrant but very primary scents of pineapple, fresh yellow fruits and crushed stone, plus a note of hazelnut. Plush and velvety in the mouth, but with lovely lift to itsSlightly hazy appearance. Fragrant but very primary scents of pineapple, fresh yellow fruits and crushed stone, plus a note of hazelnut. Plush and velvety in the mouth, but with lovely lift to its yellow fruit and spice flavours. Finishes rich, broad, long and classically dry but not at all heavy, with slowly building mineral and spice notes. Already hints at the suavity of this great premier cru. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2018)

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Domaine Joseph Drouhin

For the last 130 years, Maison Joseph Drouhin has been in the hands of the Drouhin family. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm, still driven by the same passions that inspired the founder - and it remains one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy.

With this release of 2017s it is clear to see why. Not satisfied to rest on their laurels; each year small refinements continue to be made in how they operate. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open. The use of whole-bunch fermentation is now widespread. For the 2017s it makes up between 30-100% of the juice with all the Grand Cru wines and in varying amounts this process contributes to their other Red wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it.

Véronique Drouhin summed up the 2017 vintage as one that was warmer than normal, with over 200 hours of sunshine above the average and also a deficit in water over the year compared to normal. This seems to give a very appetising suppleness to some of the wines and an enticing immediacy too - yet they are far from rich or thick retaining some great finesse - particularly as you go up the 'ladder'.

Warm and dry as the data shows - it was not a totally straightforward vintage with pressure coming in the crucial month of April as the temperatures plummeted. However, thanks to lessons learnt in 2016 and the canny use of smoke to stop the sun burning the frozen vines - crisis was averted. The results speak for themselves. The 2017s have excellent maturity and they ended with quite a good-sized crop. Chassagne for Véronique was the most successful village - with pure lines and acidity - but there are some fantastic reds here as well.

Domaine-Joseph-Drouhin
2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Jérôme Faure Brac, the oenologist, is all about low intervention in the winery as he wants vineyard expression to be key. He therefore made six different harvests here from the 1st to the 6th ofJérôme Faure Brac, the oenologist, is all about low intervention in the winery as he wants vineyard expression to be key. He therefore made six different harvests here from the 1st to the 6th of September. The Drouhin team sub-divide this large Clos vineyard (7Ha) into different parcels. Harvested and vinified separately they are only blended after élevage in barrel. This is almost a year and then the blend 'assembles' for 2-3 months in tank together before bottling. The results are great. With impressive breadth and structure. There is a nice intensity to the crisp-edged, yellow fruit. Not peachy but quite ripe citrus character and nice persistence. This has impact and depth, there's lots to like and this will become even more exciting with a few years in the cellar. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Propriétés Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Propriétés Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

All the Drouhin Corton Grand Cru fruit comes from the Les Languettes parcel. They've had a good crop this year making 6 barrels, which is getting back to a normal yield. Power and push dominate here.All the Drouhin Corton Grand Cru fruit comes from the Les Languettes parcel. They've had a good crop this year making 6 barrels, which is getting back to a normal yield. Power and push dominate here. The fruit is certainly nicely rich and well-shaped but it is quite closed for now. The wine feels full on, with good structure and weight - then lifted and pushed on with lively acidity. This is fresh and firm and unrelenting. The intensity of fruit will certainly broaden the feel and fill out this brawny Grand Cru. For now impressive and brooding but there is lots to come. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CRIOTS BÂTARD MONTRACHET Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin
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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Les Languettes Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Les Languettes Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

Firm reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is excellent richness, size weight and mid-palate concentration on the large-scaled flavors that exude evident minerality onFirm reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is excellent richness, size weight and mid-palate concentration on the large-scaled flavors that exude evident minerality on the focused, linear and solidly persistent finish. This needs to develop better depth but the structured finish makes clear that this is quite backward and in need of time to evolve. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2019)

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Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées. The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too. 2017 is a 'New Classic Vintage' says Boris - and there certainly is a sophisticated charm to all the wines - classically shaped but with that extra bite of sheer pleasure.

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Folatières Domaine des Lambrays

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Folatières Domaine des Lambrays

Lovely clean and bright attack. Good breadth too - but a just pithy, fresh, lemony drive of fruit. Clean and beautifully textured. Creamy almost. Harvested 31 August. To avoid premox they have beenLovely clean and bright attack. Good breadth too - but a just pithy, fresh, lemony drive of fruit. Clean and beautifully textured. Creamy almost. Harvested 31 August. To avoid premox they have been measuring oxygen levels throughout the process, in barrel before bottling. Boris is all about the detail - (as you would hope from someone running such a prestigious domaine!) he tells us that 99.9% of corks are still washed with peroxide, he worries this is one of the reasons for premox so he sources others that are washed with SO2. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Domaine Dugat-Py's wines are far from shy and retiring, but they do require patience to show their best. Old vines, tiny yields, viticulture with minute and constant attention, all lead to a magnificent concentration and purity in the raw material. Without extracting harsh tannins, Loïc (who despite his youthful good-looks, has overseen the wine-making since 2012) gets an astonishing density into the wines, and they take on the high percentage of new oak quite casually. (The village wines get 55-65% new wood, while the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are all aged in 100% new barrels.)

The wines are every bit as good as you'd expect from this domaine in 2017 and for once may not be as devilishly long-lived as usual. As Loïc said the wines have an openness and a more aerial feel this year - and are deeply charming for it. The season he says was unusual and with the vines recovering from the loss of so much fruit in 2016 to frost (almost 30%) they went in to overdrive producing lots of grapes in 2017. Taking counsel from his father and grandfather he resisted the urge for a bountiful harvest and spent August thinning out the crop with a thorough green harvest. 'No holiday for me' he said cheerfully - and kept smiling as he explained they dropped enough fruit to fill another 20 barrels - ouch! There were, said Loïc, some problems with 'blocage de maturité' where young vines really suffered in the 36/37-degree heat. The harvest was early - starting on the 2nd of September, they were among the first. Neither in 2017, nor in 2018, was there really anything to do on the sorting table. The understanding and skill from the three generations of Dugats was crucial in such fine results. When you taste these mesmerising wines, you realise that all the right decisions were made. A real highlight on our tour of the region. Dense and intense but with a lovely softness in 2017, truly extraordinary.

These wines are in high demand, but it is still well-worth making requests, especially if buying other wines. Likely to be released in March.

Domaine-Bernard-Dugat-Py
2016 MEURSAULT Vieilles Vignes Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MEURSAULT Vieilles Vignes Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2016 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2016 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py
75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond