White Bigger Bottles


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Domaine Daniel Barraud

Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.

All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.

As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud

Pale after the 'La Verchère', quite a shy nose, then great purity. Volume and a supple delicate fresh liquid touch - lemon and ripe yellow citrus lifts it - energy and mineral purity are thePale after the 'La Verchère', quite a shy nose, then great purity. Volume and a supple delicate fresh liquid touch - lemon and ripe yellow citrus lifts it - energy and mineral purity are the keynotes. Immensely long. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

2017 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

En Buland is like La Roche with a touch of la Verchère, and then more than either of them. Big and bold on the palate after a shy and retiring nose. Savoury, saline and voluminously ripe too. IntenseEn Buland is like La Roche with a touch of la Verchère, and then more than either of them. Big and bold on the palate after a shy and retiring nose. Savoury, saline and voluminously ripe too. Intense all the way through, the most complete of all, and very long. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc's daughter Lydie has been at the helm here for years now and continues the brilliant work. The white wines are particularly impressive. with power and energy in perfect balance. Their fantastic holdings in Puligny are the real prize and the 2017s once again offer fantastic quality and real terroir specific wines - at a very sensible price. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, she also runs a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.
2017 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot

Crisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quiteCrisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quite closed - but it is good and nicely citrus and chalky too. Montagny was hit badly by the frosts that hit in the late Spring and volumes are right down this year.L&S(Oct 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.

Domaine-Fernand-Laurent-Pillot
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give theThe Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give the wine a broad feel. It is well integrated and the bracing acidity gives it structure. Long finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

An enticing nose of smoke and flint. The entry is supple and sweet - there is good concentration of fruit supported by refined oak. A twinkle of acidity keeps the juice bright and poised. This isAn enticing nose of smoke and flint. The entry is supple and sweet - there is good concentration of fruit supported by refined oak. A twinkle of acidity keeps the juice bright and poised. This is very alluring. L&S(Oct 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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Domaine Rémi Jobard

Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.

Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.

Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.

Domaine-Rémi-Jobard
Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2017 BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR BLANC Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard

This got frosted a little in 2017, but this is a bounce back up in volume of total yield after the near catastrophe of 2016. Delicate now for now, but in the mouth, it is positive, suave, fat andThis got frosted a little in 2017, but this is a bounce back up in volume of total yield after the near catastrophe of 2016. Delicate now for now, but in the mouth, it is positive, suave, fat and supple, and steadily grows in interest and complexity with green fruit, then pears and them yellow fruit sweetness and accent following. Lots of fat. Stays bright and fine, concentrated and very long. From several parcels in Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault, all of which abut vineyards classified at village level. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

This is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. LongThis is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. Long and so persistent, without any force or pressure. Less 'wham' than the Poruzot - perhaps more finely tuned. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 6

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit.This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit. A creamy feel, that will slowly spread and emerge to be really decadent. Power and restraint for now. Impressive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 3

In Bond