Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson
Marie Jacqueson, named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' at the Hospices de Beaune as long ago as 2010, now represents the third generation of Jacquesons to be making wine here. Her grandfather Henri started off in the 1946 with a small parcel of Aligoté. Henri was quite a pioneer at a time when Rully was not well-known, the vineyards having been substantially abandoned after the first world war. Paul, Henri's son and father of the current generation, was responsible for the drive to quality which gained the domaine its reputation. He still active in support of his children.
The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the negociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.
The white wines are refined and hugely impressive and the reds are a joy - silky and expressive and represent real bargains. 2017 was a warm vintage here - with yields down in volume simply due to the heat - there was some frost in April too - but the Jacquesons were not too badly hit. The intensity of flavour and weight of the juice tell the tale of this warm, dry season very clearly. So there is good richness, but they are nicely balanced too with good tension and clarity - particularly in the whites, while the reds are ample and juicy.
2017 RULLY 1er Cru La Pucelle Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson
Tasted after the Margotés this is less open and generous on the nose. More considered, somehow. On the palate it is tightly wound and retains lots of pep. Intensely tight fruit character whichTasted after the Margotés this is less open and generous on the nose. More considered, somehow. On the palate it is tightly wound and retains lots of pep. Intensely tight fruit character which unwraps into some softer peachy streaks and a touch of riper, creamier feeling. Some creamy 'carambar' notes too add another dimension. There is lots to taste and feel - and it is all underpinned well by the unflinching line of racy acidity. Their plot here was planted in 1992 - and is mostly limestone. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)
Jean-Marc BoillotJean-Marc's daughter Lydie has been at the helm here for years now and continues the brilliant work. The white wines are particularly impressive. with power and energy in perfect balance. Their fantastic holdings in Puligny are the real prize and the 2017s once again offer fantastic quality and real terroir specific wines - at a very sensible price. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, she also runs a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.
2017 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot
Crisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quiteCrisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quite closed - but it is good and nicely citrus and chalky too. Montagny was hit badly by the frosts that hit in the late Spring and volumes are right down this year.L&S(Oct 2018)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
A domaine with 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are spread over Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Olivier Lamy's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2017, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The 2017 whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness. 2017 brought no relief from the recent small harvests - thanks to early frosts which nipped the buds, yields were 10-20hl/ha in the Bourgogne and village Saint Aubins, so volumes are still decidedly short.
Olivier says of the vintage '2017 will be a solar year but very balanced with ripe wines at the beginning of the mouth and finishing on freshness, minerality, tension and a lot of energy. The élevage will be 24 months without any new wood to keep more freshness. The wines are nicely balanced, revealing aromas of citrus fruits. They are pure, fresh and mineral wines. Their chiselled and precise character means they will keep well.". As for the reds, he says 'This vintage gave very healthy red grapes, so a good proportion of the whole bunches was kept in vatting. Ruby colours, a complex nose, floral, fruity and spicy, the concentration in the mouth and soft and pleasant tannins characterise these wines which express nice notes of fresh fruits. All finesse, they show all the elements of great Burgundian red wines.'
2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy
On decomposed limestone. A rich and full wine, generous, then the limestone element pulls out the finish.On decomposed limestone. A rich and full wine, generous, then the limestone element pulls out the finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024L&S(Jul 2018)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Nose of enticing fruit with a hint of smoke. Defined ripe green fruit. Acidity is less obvious - the juice is soft and encompassing. Some broadness and power. A lovely way to kick off a long list ofNose of enticing fruit with a hint of smoke. Defined ripe green fruit. Acidity is less obvious - the juice is soft and encompassing. Some broadness and power. A lovely way to kick off a long list of Chassagne Montrachets. This village wine is made up from 8 different plots which add up to about 35 barrels in total. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Morgeot is the largest vineyard in Chassagne at 60 hectares. The soil is mainly clay and stone. Full bodied supported by good tension. The vanilla adds depth and volume. Obvious charm and pleasure.Morgeot is the largest vineyard in Chassagne at 60 hectares. The soil is mainly clay and stone. Full bodied supported by good tension. The vanilla adds depth and volume. Obvious charm and pleasure. One almost feels guilty enjoying it so much. It ends on a bright note - the acidity adding the finishing touches to a well-made wine. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)
Domaine Jean-Marc BoillotJean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny, and with this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business. He makes wines that show well young, with complex exotic fruit aromas with the core of minerality, but they age well too. His daughter Lydie and son are now taking a more active role in the domaine.
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
The fruit for this super 'Village' wine comes from 7 parcels, all in same sector, on the Chassagne side - 5 are in Enseignères, 1 in Les Meix, 1 in Rue Rousseau. Fresh and clean. Nicely PulignyThe fruit for this super 'Village' wine comes from 7 parcels, all in same sector, on the Chassagne side - 5 are in Enseignères, 1 in Les Meix, 1 in Rue Rousseau. Fresh and clean. Nicely Puligny Montrachet in feel and attack but broader than some. The fruit is richly ripe - but there is a good drive and almost iodine edge that keeps it focused. Feel is sweeter though and there is a great sleekness to the flow. A well balanced, pleasing Puligny. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Oct 2018)