1er Cru whites and reds

While some premier crus have sadly sold out, there are still great options available at this level for both white and red. It's well worth taking a few minutes to peruse the list in full - there are plenty of gems still to be had! Click on each wine to see all the reviews.

For a full list of the top wines of which we still have availability have a look at our Last Chance Whites and Last Chance Reds lists.


This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

Domaine Adhémar & Francis Boudin, also known as Domaine de Chantemerle, has supplied L&S since our very first list. Adhémar, who sadly departed on his 96th birthday in the late autumn of 2016, was a well-known personality, never short of a story. He was in the leading group of the pioneering growers who cleared scrub and planted some of the original Chablis vineyards. It was hard, and he only stopped keeping cows alongside ('if you didn't have a cow or two you died of hunger') in the mid 1950s. It is astonishing to think that the Premiers Crus were only defined in 1975.

Francis, who has obviously been in charge for may years, continues to make wines which from this sector at La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, next to the Fourchaume escarpment, gets good ripeness and the wines here are quite fat and supple, while still retaining the classic Chablis minerality.

The new generation were much in evidence at our autumn 2018 visit, and so the continuity is assured, with Francis' daughters Angélique and Virginie, as well as Angélique's husband, now working in the domaine.

Domaine-Adhémar-et-Francis-Boudin
2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Fourchaume Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Fourchaume Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin

Like the village wine the 2017 Fourchaumes is again bright and with lovely ping. This is less rich and more restrained than in some years - but pleasingly the house style of breadth and sleek fleshLike the village wine the 2017 Fourchaumes is again bright and with lovely ping. This is less rich and more restrained than in some years - but pleasingly the house style of breadth and sleek flesh is there! The weight of fruit is impressively measured. It’s all there, just a little more clipped for now. Good power and intensity. As ever this is such a great wine, you just want to drink it. No oak but impressive texture and amplitude. Really good.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Denis Pommier

Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 18 hectares of vineyards, which are run according to biodynamic principles (which have sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017).

The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel - while the Premier Crus benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The Troësmes (a small parcel within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy' which the Pommiers think deserves to be identified by its correct name) is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus four to six years.

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Troësmes Domaine Denis Pommier

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Troësmes Domaine Denis Pommier

Brighter still than the Croix aux Moines - this has lovely mineral push and lots of citrus ping. Intense. More zest and pith - but joyously fresh and finishes with a nicely saline line. A tightishBrighter still than the Croix aux Moines - this has lovely mineral push and lots of citrus ping. Intense. More zest and pith - but joyously fresh and finishes with a nicely saline line. A tightish finish - nice tension and poise here.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Moreau-Naudet

We still miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016, but there is no question that the domaine has proved to be in exceptionally capable hands under his widow Virginie, helped by Stéphane's team.

Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago) was a consummate vigneron, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. He was also a master-craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.

Domaine-Moreau-Naudet
2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Forêts Domaine Moreau-Naudet

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Forêts Domaine Moreau-Naudet

This is impressive. Very mineral, a heft of oyster and chalk but surrounded by a thin crisp layer of lime juice and pithy lemon. There is brooding weight - but today from the tank this is pure andThis is impressive. Very mineral, a heft of oyster and chalk but surrounded by a thin crisp layer of lime juice and pithy lemon. There is brooding weight - but today from the tank this is pure and powerfully muscular Chablis. Delicious. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Laurent Tribut

Laurent Tribut is married to Vincent Dauvissat's sister, Marie Clotilde. When he started he made his wines in the Dauvissat cellar in Chablis, but now this small family-run domaine is based in Poinchy. You could not hope to meet a more charming and mild-mannered man as Laurent. He is a quiet genius, making some of the purest and most classical wines in the appellation.

This year it was great to get to know three (Solange, Adeline and Gabriel) of Laurent's four children who all now work with him. With his guidance the future here looks very bright. With just 6 hectares the quantities are small - but the quality of all his cuvées is extraordinary. Pure, powerfully driven, classically shaped there is more than a passing similarity to the wines of his brother-in-law the head-line grabbing Vincent Dauvissat. Buyers will enjoy these super wines with some time in bottle too - they have a great ability to age and patience will pay off, we recently tasted the 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2004 with Laurent in his cellar and it was bright, young and full of vigour - nearly 15 years on. This is brilliant, classic Chablis made by a quiet maestro.

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine Laurent Tribut

2017 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine Laurent Tribut

The Beauroy is, as ever, a touch richer than the other wines here. It is more intense in every way with a gently savoury note of hard cheese, some iodine and then a great clean, brighter 'Chablis'The Beauroy is, as ever, a touch richer than the other wines here. It is more intense in every way with a gently savoury note of hard cheese, some iodine and then a great clean, brighter 'Chablis' core. The energy is great with a super mineral push. Classic lines and nice shape. Balance is so good between the acidity and weight, the fruit and the savoury edge - spot on Chablis and finishes as clean as a whistle. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Marie Jacqueson, named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' at the Hospices de Beaune as long ago as 2010, now represents the third generation of Jacquesons to be making wine here. Her grandfather Henri started off in the 1946 with a small parcel of Aligoté. Henri was quite a pioneer at a time when Rully was not well-known, the vineyards having been substantially abandoned after the first world war. Paul, Henri's son and father of the current generation, was responsible for the drive to quality which gained the domaine its reputation. He still active in support of his children.

The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the negociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.

The white wines are refined and hugely impressive and the reds are a joy - silky and expressive and represent real bargains. 2017 was a warm vintage here - with yields down in volume simply due to the heat - there was some frost in April too - but the Jacquesons were not too badly hit. The intensity of flavour and weight of the juice tell the tale of this warm, dry season very clearly. So there is good richness, but they are nicely balanced too with good tension and clarity - particularly in the whites, while the reds are ample and juicy.

2017 RULLY 1er Cru Grésigny Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

2017 RULLY 1er Cru Grésigny Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Planted in 1950 - lots of limestone here - this is a seriously smart spot. Crisp cut here but fruit core is intense. Yellow ripe flesh and melon skin - then some lime intensity and a broad sleekerPlanted in 1950 - lots of limestone here - this is a seriously smart spot. Crisp cut here but fruit core is intense. Yellow ripe flesh and melon skin - then some lime intensity and a broad sleeker feel builds graciously. This is impressive. Great weight and breadth - some cream but a touch of dusty minerality adds good texture and a freshness. This was not a straightforward vintage in Rully yet this wine is cleverly judged - really good balance and tension.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial is simply the leading domaine of the Côte Chalonnaise. What is more, the astonishing Vincent Dureuil is equally adept at making both white and red wines. Vincent inherited from the Janthial side of his family, who have been in Rully since the eighteenth century. Vincent and his wife Céline took over in 1994. As they say 'because wine is first grown in the vineyard, we have chosen to respect the land and let live the soils and vineyards to produce committed and accurate wines, of great purity and a frank personality.'

The domaine now extends to 20 hectares, 17 in the Côte Chalonnaise (primarily Rully and Mercurey) with 3 hectares in the Côte d'Or, including vines inherited by Céline in Nuits Saint Georges, and some inherited by Vincent in Puligny. The domaine was certified organic in 2009, but after short harvests in 2012 and 2013, Vincent was forced by a late attack of mildew in 2016 to spray with fungicide. The result was that he saved 5 hectares out of the 20, but lost his certification. Stubbornly he immediately set about the three years of 'conversion' he must do before he can be certified again. For this perfectionist, being 'nearly organic' does not quite cut it.

2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Vauvry Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Vauvry Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Vauvry reads this year like a combination of the sunny, fleshy 'Maizieres', and the tauter, brighter, firmer 'Chênes'. Fuller that either of them, it has a lovely bright definition and length.Vauvry reads this year like a combination of the sunny, fleshy 'Maizieres', and the tauter, brighter, firmer 'Chênes'. Fuller that either of them, it has a lovely bright definition and length. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc's daughter Lydie has been at the helm here for years now and continues the brilliant work. The white wines are particularly impressive. with power and energy in perfect balance. Their fantastic holdings in Puligny are the real prize and the 2017s once again offer fantastic quality and real terroir specific wines - at a very sensible price. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, she also runs a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.
2017 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 MONTAGNY 1er Cru Jean-Marc Boillot

Crisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quiteCrisp and clean juice. Nicely pithy and not overly broad nor lean. Just well pitched. This has been in bottle since the beginning of August and is nicely settled. This remains quite tight, quite closed - but it is good and nicely citrus and chalky too. Montagny was hit badly by the frosts that hit in the late Spring and volumes are right down this year.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Joseph Colin

Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. Now he has decided to leave, making a token 1800 or so bottles in 2016, before starting in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.

Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2017 he used no S02 until just before bottling, but if there's some botrytis he will add it earlier.

Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Joseph Colin

A great classic of a vineyard, and as it sounds, a rocky, white soil, very mineral. Discreet nose, very pure and straight. Rock crystal elegance here, very fine - there's thickness of body yet totalA great classic of a vineyard, and as it sounds, a rocky, white soil, very mineral. Discreet nose, very pure and straight. Rock crystal elegance here, very fine - there's thickness of body yet total purity. Magical site-specific combination of ripeness and brightness. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin

Garenne is high on the slope, in the hamlet of Blagny. While it ripens well, it always remains a 'tonique' style, with a slight citrus skin bitterness. 'The vintage makes little difference here -Garenne is high on the slope, in the hamlet of Blagny. While it ripens well, it always remains a 'tonique' style, with a slight citrus skin bitterness. 'The vintage makes little difference here - it's pretty much always like this - but it needs to be ripe, like Vide Bourse. I try to pick it over 13%', says Joseph. Pale bright silvery-gold. Good straight nose with mineral and citrus, fat and complete on the palate, very well-defined crystalline feel, the subtle citrus core giving a nice balance and length. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Sep 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Hubert Lamy

A domaine with 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are spread over Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Olivier Lamy's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2017, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The 2017 whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness. 2017 brought no relief from the recent small harvests - thanks to early frosts which nipped the buds, yields were 10-20hl/ha in the Bourgogne and village Saint Aubins, so volumes are still decidedly short.

Olivier says of the vintage '2017 will be a solar year but very balanced with ripe wines at the beginning of the mouth and finishing on freshness, minerality, tension and a lot of energy. The élevage will be 24 months without any new wood to keep more freshness. The wines are nicely balanced, revealing aromas of citrus fruits. They are pure, fresh and mineral wines. Their chiselled and precise character means they will keep well.". As for the reds, he says 'This vintage gave very healthy red grapes, so a good proportion of the whole bunches was kept in vatting. Ruby colours, a complex nose, floral, fruity and spicy, the concentration in the mouth and soft and pleasant tannins characterise these wines which express nice notes of fresh fruits. All finesse, they show all the elements of great Burgundian red wines.'

Domaine-Hubert-Lamy
2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Very rich nose and much broader than the village St-Aubin. Exciting density and apparently potential.Very rich nose and much broader than the village St-Aubin. Exciting density and apparently potential. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Fairandes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Fairandes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Brighter and more perk, more poise than the Morgeot tasted just before. It is because it is so different that Laurent has started making it as a separate wine when he can. It is from right up at theBrighter and more perk, more poise than the Morgeot tasted just before. It is because it is so different that Laurent has started making it as a separate wine when he can. It is from right up at the top of Morgeot bang next door to the Grandes Ruchottes vineyard. It is so expressive Laurent likes to keep it apart - and it is great that he does. A gorgeously juicy middle. Super lemon and soft citrus juice. Very succulent and inviting. The bright start mellows but the flow and energy remain. impressive depth revealed at finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The creaminess is evident on the nose. Clearly Meursault. The palate reveals precise, pure fruit, a touch of mineral tension but all wound up in a smooth, creamy, textured juice. ImmediatelyThe creaminess is evident on the nose. Clearly Meursault. The palate reveals precise, pure fruit, a touch of mineral tension but all wound up in a smooth, creamy, textured juice. Immediately appealing, this will give drinking pleasure for the next seven years. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give theThe Vide Bourse has a riper and more exotic feel to it. On the palate there is lots of vibrant, bright fruit. The concentration is impressive. Flavours of vanilla, nut, fig and stone fruit give the wine a broad feel. It is well integrated and the bracing acidity gives it structure. Long finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Henri Germain

Jean-François Germain has been joined over the course of 2018 by his daughter Lucie - who is now helping to run this small (6.5ha) domaine.

The Chassagne vineyards came through his mother, a Pillot, and Jean-François is married to François Jobard's daughter, so they are quite intertwined with some of our other producers. In terms of winemaking the Germains are always happy to let nature take its course, and in the vineyards they follow as natural a system of viticulture as possible.

These are concentrated, tightly wound wines from one of Burgundy's coldest cellars. Slow to develop, they show wonderful crystalline purity. New wood is used sparingly.

Domaine-Henri-Germain
2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Henri Germain

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Henri Germain

Pure and mineral. The Charmes has a cool feel to it - there is green fruit with good poise and lovely texture. The juice is weighty but with bright acidity that seems to be the trademark of the 2017Pure and mineral. The Charmes has a cool feel to it - there is green fruit with good poise and lovely texture. The juice is weighty but with bright acidity that seems to be the trademark of the 2017 vintage. It is certainly texture over flavour at this stage but plenty to look forward to. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Henri Germain

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Henri Germain

The Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot offers a change in scenery following a Meursault dominated tasting. Mineral, pure and clean. A hint of vanilla but there is nothing overpowering from the oak. CrushedThe Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot offers a change in scenery following a Meursault dominated tasting. Mineral, pure and clean. A hint of vanilla but there is nothing overpowering from the oak. Crushed rocks. Fruit lingering in the background. Crisp and striking. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Rémi Jobard

Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.

Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.

Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.

Domaine-Rémi-Jobard
2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard

This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit.This has great feel and poise. Lovely clean firm fruit. Spiced pear and green melon with gooseberry lick too. Pure, high toned and really nervy energy all driving along a substantial weight of fruit. A creamy feel, that will slowly spread and emerge to be really decadent. Power and restraint for now. Impressive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

2017 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

This is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. LongThis is tighter wound in the middle than the Poruzot tasted just before. With a mouthful of some lime and soft ginger here. Clean and pithy clear juice slowly turns to a broader, darker feel. Long and so persistent, without any force or pressure. Less 'wham' than the Poruzot - perhaps more finely tuned. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny, and with this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business. He makes wines that show well young, with complex exotic fruit aromas with the core of minerality, but they age well too. His daughter Lydie and son are now taking a more active role in the domaine.
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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

(Their plot is very high up the Puligny slope and just next to Meursault Perrières) This is very attractive. Tighter than the Referts and the minerality here is more striking. There is a lovely(Their plot is very high up the Puligny slope and just next to Meursault Perrières) This is very attractive. Tighter than the Referts and the minerality here is more striking. There is a lovely acidity though as well. A real bright push - powerfully keeps the fruit moving. Pear and apple here - delicious firm flesh. Quite good breadth and richness too, but fresh. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Henri Boillot

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.

The Domaine totals around 14 hectares, with roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. The 2017 vintage saw the arrival of two new parcels of Grand Cru red, in Échezeaux and Latricières Chambertin

In November 2018 we tasted with Henri while Guillaume was busy in the cellar, working on the just harvested 2018s, and he was very upbeat about the 2017s - rightly so. They harvested the whites between the 27th and 30th August - going early to preserve the energy which is increasingly a hallmark here.

Henri says this year is quite like 2016 but with a bit more weight he thinks. There is lovely acidity like the 2013s. He explains that 2017s have the same acidity as the 2016s - but with a note more glycerol which pads out the middle. The results are delicious, delectable wines you want to drink.

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère Domaine Henri Boillot

Wow. Even after the Pucelles there is a jaw-droppingly impressive attack here - such weight and yet such ping and bright energy again. Then it gets into his stride and rolls along with such sleekWow. Even after the Pucelles there is a jaw-droppingly impressive attack here - such weight and yet such ping and bright energy again. Then it gets into his stride and rolls along with such sleek grace and unrelenting gentle push. There is breadth and power in abundance. A sophisticated big boy. Will repay the patient. Although like most of these gorgeous 2017s there is something immediately inviting here. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

In Bond

Joseph Drouhin

Despite the size of their vineyard holding, not all Drouhin's wines come from their own domaine, but most of the other wines do come from long-term contracts, such as exists with the Marquis de Laguiche wines. In all but name these wines are 'Domaine' wines, and the vineyards are cared for and the wines vinified with exactly the same care.
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

Tasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has aTasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has a waxier feel, with essence of lemon skin and then a riper, sweet line of juice in the middle. Still well-furled but you can sense the good, soft flesh just waiting below the surface. Good intensity. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Marie Jacqueson, named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' at the Hospices de Beaune as long ago as 2010, now represents the third generation of Jacquesons to be making wine here. Her grandfather Henri started off in the 1946 with a small parcel of Aligoté. Henri was quite a pioneer at a time when Rully was not well-known, the vineyards having been substantially abandoned after the first world war. Paul, Henri's son and father of the current generation, was responsible for the drive to quality which gained the domaine its reputation. He still active in support of his children.

The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the negociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.

The white wines are refined and hugely impressive and the reds are a joy - silky and expressive and represent real bargains. 2017 was a warm vintage here - with yields down in volume simply due to the heat - there was some frost in April too - but the Jacquesons were not too badly hit. The intensity of flavour and weight of the juice tell the tale of this warm, dry season very clearly. So there is good richness, but they are nicely balanced too with good tension and clarity - particularly in the whites, while the reds are ample and juicy.

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Champs Martin Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Champs Martin Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson

Faces due south and so the bright and peppy attack is surprising at first - but then more weight and ripeness builds quite quickly. This is nicely done. An energy and bounce here that is moreFaces due south and so the bright and peppy attack is surprising at first - but then more weight and ripeness builds quite quickly. This is nicely done. An energy and bounce here that is more pronounced than with the other Reds tasted here. It flows on with great momentum and silky edged juice, impressively voluptuous but the juice is just piquant enough. Good measure. Strawberries and some plum meld together well - attractive and satisfying. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine François Raquillet

The Chalonnais proved to be a happy hunting ground for the 2017 vintage and Mercurey was no exception. Francois produces a number of different labels from 11 hectares of mainly old vines and has recently been concentrating on reducing yields and increasing the quality of oak barrels. One might think that all this would send prices shooting north, however, this producer remains one of the true bargains in Burgundy. The 2017 vintage was a pleasure to taste and will be an immediate hit for our not so patient clients! Energy, pretty fruit, mineral and structure. These wines are excellent options for early to medium term drinking.
Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2017 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine François Raquillet

The classiest - and the most dense - of all François' wines. From a vineyard which is white marl, limestone and clay, vines over forty years old, high up the slope. Cherry is evident on the palateThe classiest - and the most dense - of all François' wines. From a vineyard which is white marl, limestone and clay, vines over forty years old, high up the slope. Cherry is evident on the palate with a stony mineral backbone. Lively but closed. Lots of density but it retains brightness and movement - will be worth waiting for. Drinking range: 2023 - L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine François Lumpp

François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by two of their children, Pierre and Anne-Cécile.

François is a passionate viticulturalist and places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results (often at the expense of yield).

2017 has produced a very generous style for both the whites and the reds in Givry making the tasting from barrel extremely enjoyable. The reds are dominated by rich, glossy dark fruit and fresh acidity. It is no surprise that Tim Atkin described Francois Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' High praise indeed and luckily for us, this has not been reflected in the price - the Lumpp wines still offers great value for money.

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

2017 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

A prominent nose of sweet dark fruit and rich wood (70% new oak). Supple on entry the concentration is impressive. The most massive and the most 'serious' of François' reds, seeming more like aA prominent nose of sweet dark fruit and rich wood (70% new oak). Supple on entry the concentration is impressive. The most massive and the most 'serious' of François' reds, seeming more like a Pommard or Volnay. It is richly smooth, the tannins only appearing towards the end, but the sheer bulk of the wine needs their support. The fruit might not be so crunchy and immediate as the other reds but it is carried home by fresh acidity.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial is simply the leading domaine of the Côte Chalonnaise. What is more, the astonishing Vincent Dureuil is equally adept at making both white and red wines. Vincent inherited from the Janthial side of his family, who have been in Rully since the eighteenth century. Vincent and his wife Céline took over in 1994. As they say 'because wine is first grown in the vineyard, we have chosen to respect the land and let live the soils and vineyards to produce committed and accurate wines, of great purity and a frank personality.'

The domaine now extends to 20 hectares, 17 in the Côte Chalonnaise (primarily Rully and Mercurey) with 3 hectares in the Côte d'Or, including vines inherited by Céline in Nuits Saint Georges, and some inherited by Vincent in Puligny. The domaine was certified organic in 2009, but after short harvests in 2012 and 2013, Vincent was forced by a late attack of mildew in 2016 to spray with fungicide. The result was that he saved 5 hectares out of the 20, but lost his certification. Stubbornly he immediately set about the three years of 'conversion' he must do before he can be certified again. For this perfectionist, being 'nearly organic' does not quite cut it.

2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru Chapitre Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

2017 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru Chapitre Domaine Dureuil-Janthial

Great intensity of fruit here, a lively balance of tanins, juice and weighty density. Great intensity of fruit here, a lively balance of tanins, juice and weighty density. Drinking range: 2021 - L&S(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.

The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.

Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.

Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman) - he now helps Laurent with all aspects of the wine-making and viticulture at the domaine. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine last year as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Charmots Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Enticing fine fruit nose with a touch of smoke. Refined palate. Good structure to the dark fruit. There is substance and freshness, but it is the elegance of this site which comes out above all. WillEnticing fine fruit nose with a touch of smoke. Refined palate. Good structure to the dark fruit. There is substance and freshness, but it is the elegance of this site which comes out above all. Will repay a short time in the cellar. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Produced from old vines, some dating back to the 60s, the Rugiens tops the table in a line up of impressive Pillot Pommards. Striking nose of rich fruit. On the palate there is complexity already.Produced from old vines, some dating back to the 60s, the Rugiens tops the table in a line up of impressive Pillot Pommards. Striking nose of rich fruit. On the palate there is complexity already. Rich and round, then real density and the tannins firm up in the concentration. Terrific energy throughout. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

After hail and frost had savagely cut the production here in four out of the previous five vintages, it was smiles and relief all round this year. In 2016 Nico had just five barrels of 'Village' Volnay, but the 'perfect' 2017 vintage has yielded 39 barrels form the same ground. How Nico has managed to keep smiling through the last few years is anyone's guess, but that's Nico. It can only be hoped that with the only slightly smaller 2018 harvest now in barrel, these troubles have come to an end. Now in its second year, he could not be happier with his new winery. A fantastic bespoke build, admittedly in a ZI (Zone industrielle) on the outskirts of Beaune, which he recognises is not ideal for the folklore aspect, but it is a perfect tool for the job, and does have a good view of all 'his' bits of the Côte - from the roof.

As we wrote last year, the wines in this cellar reflect his bounding optimism - they are generous and bouncing with energy. He describes the 2017 vintage as 'Gourmand, Friand, Fruité', which is marvellous, but at least partly untranslatable - come on chaps, we need a word for gourmand that is better than 'greedy', and another for friand which does not involve a long explanation - but 'easy to love' might do. But you get the idea. It's delish. 'Not the density of 2015, but just as well-balanced', as Nico went on to say, and 'a vintage which respects the identity of each terroir. The kind of vintage you can drink from the word go, and at any time for ten years, but which will surprise if you then find a bottle you've forgotten in the cellar, when you see it has aged brilliantly - like the 2002s'. From a Bourgogne you can drink now, through to an incredibly serious Grand-Cru-level Pommard Rugiens, this is a great set of wines.
2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Always a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit isAlways a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit is sweet and attractive. Some spice too. Good volume and concentration balanced by fresh acidity.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Clos des Angles Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Clos des Angles Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The Clos des Angles is made with 50% whole cluster giving a lovely juicy feel to the wine. Straight laced at this stage. There is a plump and weighty feel that is kept in check by fresh acidity and aThe Clos des Angles is made with 50% whole cluster giving a lovely juicy feel to the wine. Straight laced at this stage. There is a plump and weighty feel that is kept in check by fresh acidity and a tingle of tannin. Complexity should come in time. I look forward to trying this again once bottled. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Santenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Santenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Two hectare plot which is divided in to 4 different parcels - each vinified separately. The vineyard is dominated by large limestone rocks in a soil with a lot of ireon oxide. There is wonderfulTwo hectare plot which is divided in to 4 different parcels - each vinified separately. The vineyard is dominated by large limestone rocks in a soil with a lot of ireon oxide. There is wonderful primary black fruit which marries well with the oak. Gamey and earthy notes too. Rich, powerful and masculine. Good structure with the tannins building towards the finish. Classy and pronounced. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich darkThe soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich dark fruit kept in check by noticeable acidity. Ripe tannins grow towards the end. The limestone becomes apparent at the finish with a hint of rocky mineral.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

In Bond

Domaine Comte Armand

A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.

The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.

Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.

The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.

Paul has nailed his colours to the mast by saying he wants to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.

2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

This comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas deThis comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas de Duresses which has deeper soil, more clay. This adds the depth and weight to the blend. Paul is not planning to fine nor filter this and you can see why. There is good density and great energy. Really joyously vibrant, but it is hard not to like the nicely ripe fruit too. This is measured and has good push with pretty red fruit. A great Auxey. L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

A seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberryA seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberry flesh. Kept in check by a good, suedey underside. Overla this feels like it will be drinking from the get go. nusually with this Volnay they have done somne some pigeage, Paul is not big in to it - but he felt this wine needed a touch of extraction and intensity. The fruit comes form 2 plots. One is made up of 90 year old vines - the other is 33 years old. After 2016 he was considering pulling out the old vines. But he is really happy with them in 2017. 25% New wood here. 10% Whole Bunch. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

Tasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vinesTasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vines which are between 35 and 55 years old. There is great poise to this and lovely push. There is a firmness that pushes back at you here, a remarkable powerful wall of minerality that is like a brooding edifice. Creating a crisp backdrop to the nice weight of bright red fruit. Pretty Pinot with a lifted character. Crunchy and nervy. The majority (60%) will be made up of the old vine parcel, 65-90 year old vines. This component is on another plain. So much more richness here. a lovely sweeter feel. Great depth. Denser, really quite wonderfully indulgent. A much more luxurious and decadent feel. Darker red fruit and super texture. The resultant blend is very impressive. Somehow more perfumed on the nose. This expresses itself really nicely. generous but well measured. Comes together well and you totally see the decision on these proportions. That dense richer fruit sits well on the brighter, firmer lift of the younger vines. Good delivery now - ample weight and good level of ping. Nicely complementary components that end up well balanced but certainly generous on the fruit side. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

In Bond

Domaine de Courcel

One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.

The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.

The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Fremiers Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Fremiers Domaine de Courcel

Higher toned than either the Vaumariens or the Croix Noirs. Softer fruit middle. Really quite generous and free flowing for this cellar. More purple and red berries here. Sleeker and easier. StillHigher toned than either the Vaumariens or the Croix Noirs. Softer fruit middle. Really quite generous and free flowing for this cellar. More purple and red berries here. Sleeker and easier. Still that power and impact you want from de Courcel - but a softer blow delivers this with some comfort. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

Scented and with a growing gentle, plum flesh perfume on the nose. Then you feel the very fine-lined texture, great detail. There is a darkness here, a deep brood to the fruit - some baked plum, someScented and with a growing gentle, plum flesh perfume on the nose. Then you feel the very fine-lined texture, great detail. There is a darkness here, a deep brood to the fruit - some baked plum, some morello cherry and such gorgeously fine tannins. Real flow and polish, not shiny - but sleek and so persistent the fruit ripeness is bang on. Rich and pure and powerfully driven with perfect balance of underpinning minerality and super fine, powdery tannins. Darkly sexy wine. Drinking range: 2024 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

Domaine Henri Boillot

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.

The Domaine totals around 14 hectares, with roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. The 2017 vintage saw the arrival of two new parcels of Grand Cru red, in Échezeaux and Latricières Chambertin

In November 2018 we tasted with Henri while Guillaume was busy in the cellar, working on the just harvested 2018s, and he was very upbeat about the 2017s - rightly so. They harvested the whites between the 27th and 30th August - going early to preserve the energy which is increasingly a hallmark here.

Henri says this year is quite like 2016 but with a bit more weight he thinks. There is lovely acidity like the 2013s. He explains that 2017s have the same acidity as the 2016s - but with a note more glycerol which pads out the middle. The results are delicious, delectable wines you want to drink.

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

More aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. AgainMore aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. Again that lovely sleek flow, the glycerol coated glide across the palate that is so inviting. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Thierry Mortet

The domaine dates back to 1992, when Domaine Charles Mortet was split between Thierry and his brother Denis, and Thierry set up on his own with just 4 hectares of vines. Today he has 7.3 ha, of which 6 are red and 1.3 white. Only 4.36 hectares are Gevrey or Chambolle, the rest being a small parcel of Marsannay Blanc and regionals - Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc, Aligoté and Passetoutgrain.

Thierry continues to be praised in the French press without ever quite seeming to crack the influential American journalists. It may be simply because he is a bit short of fancy appellations - one little cuvée of Grand Cru would no doubt do his reputation a lot of good - but might also put his prices up, and these remain very modest.

In the vineyard, Thierry has been certified organic since 2007, but really this was just an official stamp on what had been the practices of the domaine since the beginning, and he is working towards biodynamic certification. In the cellar, the grapes are entirely de-stemmed, and given four or five days of cold maceration are followed by the fermentation, with just a touch of cooling to keep the temperature around 31-33C (below 35, at least), and two pigeages a day. The total time in vat can be as little as 17 days. The wines then go into barrel, all second use or older for the Bourgogne, with 30% new wood on the Gevrey, and 50% on the Clos Prieur, for a period of around sixteen months.

Thierry's wines are fine and precise, tangy and long, never massive, but not insubstantial all the same.

Domaine-Thierry-Mortet
2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Clos Prieur Domaine Thierry Mortet

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Clos Prieur Domaine Thierry Mortet

That tell-tale 'lift' is here once again - a real hallmark of this cellar. The clear progression from the Vignes Belles leads us here, again brightness - but the fruit has more weight. More breadthThat tell-tale 'lift' is here once again - a real hallmark of this cellar. The clear progression from the Vignes Belles leads us here, again brightness - but the fruit has more weight. More breadth and intensity. We have gone up the ladder for sure and there is a richer feel in the context of Thierry's cellar - but it is measured by a good level of brightness. Focused and fresh. But good drive too. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.

Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, never exceeding 20% new wood on the Grands Crus, 15% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 10% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.

Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.

Domaine-Stéphane-Magnien
2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 'Petites Noix' 1er Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 'Petites Noix' 1er Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Stéphane is a talented winemaker and this year he is really finding more confidence and his experimenting is clear here with his first time use of whole bunches. He includes 15% here to try and tameStéphane is a talented winemaker and this year he is really finding more confidence and his experimenting is clear here with his first time use of whole bunches. He includes 15% here to try and tame the richly weighted fruit core. I'm pleased he has. There is a lift you feel amongst the deliciously sleek and glycerol-coated, dark fleshed middle. There is some structure too. It's not simply a thick wall of fruit - there is a crunch here and a small edge of power. This builds to a lovely, intense broad feel. The vineyard is just below Clos des Lambrays - on clay soil which results in this deeper, weightier fruit. 25% New wood. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Stéphane Magnien

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Stéphane Magnien

Immediately this is very indulgent. A great intense feel to the fruit. Luxuriant. Nicely polished and sleek. Good width. Great intensity. Really joyful and then that fresh feel to finish. Sleek fruitImmediately this is very indulgent. A great intense feel to the fruit. Luxuriant. Nicely polished and sleek. Good width. Great intensity. Really joyful and then that fresh feel to finish. Sleek fruit and still tension. Long and so moreish. Similar idea to the fins grains but longer and better. Stephane says - un bon Premier Cru, qui monte - it certainly does seem to improve each year. Very supple tannins make this one of our picks of the vintage, really good. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Lignier-Michelot

A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.

In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.

The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.

Virgile's 2017s were all showing brilliantly when we visited in November, and repeated at our Jan 7th tasting - this domaine is in our view one to follow very closely as the prices have not yet caught up with the growing quality.

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and a minerality that begins to tussle for superiority over the fruit. Lovely balance. Fruit is rich and loaded with good cherry notes, and yet the mineral core is superb also. Impressive stuff and just a little more muscle and grunt than the humdinger from Stephan Magnien. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.

The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.

The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Maconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Cote de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard, in the same way.

Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. At the dinner after our 7th January tasting this year, we had a bottle of the 1996 'village' Chambolle, still hanging on and gloriously scented, While a 2006 and 2007 Grand Clos des Épenots from de Courcel showed two brilliantly realised wines in the style of their respective vintages that are just hitting their stride.

Domaine-J.-Confuron-Cotetidot
2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This vineyard is on the Vosne side of Nuits - and you sense that influence on the style here - even if the Confuron feel is still strong. There are violets on the nose, lovely floral dried petalsThis vineyard is on the Vosne side of Nuits - and you sense that influence on the style here - even if the Confuron feel is still strong. There are violets on the nose, lovely floral dried petals and interesting deeply rich fruit. More serious middle. Firm core, some leather and stones. Tough earthy minerality. Powerful flavour, but delivered with a nice fine feel. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Like the village Chambolle this is open, ripe and inviting on the nose but there's a noticeable step up in terms of concentration and intensity on the palate. There's more structure too but theLike the village Chambolle this is open, ripe and inviting on the nose but there's a noticeable step up in terms of concentration and intensity on the palate. There's more structure too but the tannins seem to unfurl gracefully as you go. It's hard not to smile when tasting this. A poised, complex and immensely satisfying wine. Drinking range: 2024 - 2034L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

This is heady stuff. The seductive dark fruit builds and builds. There is tremendous concentration and richness on the palate. The tannins are enveloping at this point but it's the perfect frame forThis is heady stuff. The seductive dark fruit builds and builds. There is tremendous concentration and richness on the palate. The tannins are enveloping at this point but it's the perfect frame for all that ripeness. This will doubtless need quite a bit of time in bottle but it shows tremendous promise. A magnificent wine in the making. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The steady progression of this domaine has been fascinating to watch as Thibault gradually refines his approach to each parcel of vines, and there can be no question with the commissioning of his new state of the art cellar this year that the 2016s are among the best he has ever made. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum, with wood chosen and aged by him, and barrels made with almost no toasting. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.
Domaine-Thibault-Liger-Belair
2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interestingThibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interesting soil here which has some clay but a very high density of small white pebbles which changes everything. He had to do 2 distinct harvests here. First to pick off the best bunches for whole bunch fermenting and the second is all destemmed fruit. This is broadly structured with good shoulders. More upright and more intense than the Vosne and there is a dry line which underscores this classy core of more weighty, sleek fruit. Some blueberry and plumskin measure the ripe feel - joined by warm raspberries and a more leafy edge. Good juicy acidity too balances the weight nicely. THis is a very smart, accessible Nuits from Thibault. Recommended.. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

Christophe is now the fourth generation of his family producing wine on the estate after his great grandfather Amédée Merme devoted himself to the management and production of wine over 130 years ago. The estate has gone from strength to strength – always keeping the highest standards. Integrated viticulture has been practiced for many years now which has been adapted especially for the terroir. No herbicide or chemical fertilizer is used, instead, Christophe prefers to “stand back and listen to this terroir, only intervening when necessary or when the weather requires it, never systematically.” We still await the offer on allocations from Christophe, so please form an orderly queue - i.e. send requests and we will deal with them once we know what we have. This is one of the star domaines of the whole of Burgundy.
Domaine-Christophe-Perrot-Minot
2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru La Riotte Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru La Riotte Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

This has more edge and brood than the Nuits St Georges tasted just before it. A great, tightly-furled core of fruit, with a gently grip and a more bold texture. Firmer and less clearly fleshy, lessThis has more edge and brood than the Nuits St Georges tasted just before it. A great, tightly-furled core of fruit, with a gently grip and a more bold texture. Firmer and less clearly fleshy, less soft feel - this is ripe and yet feels very serious too. It may be less pretty, less flirty and charming - but there is good oomph and a long finish with growing bite, pull and energy. Impressive, Will need a moment. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Vignes Centenaires 1er Cru La Richemone Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Vignes Centenaires 1er Cru La Richemone Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

‘Vignes Centenaires’ this was known as the Cuvée Ultra until 2011. (But to avoid any confusion Christophe keeps the word Ultra on the back label). Wow. Straight out of the blocks this is like a‘Vignes Centenaires’ this was known as the Cuvée Ultra until 2011. (But to avoid any confusion Christophe keeps the word Ultra on the back label). Wow. Straight out of the blocks this is like a masterclass. Perfectly chiselled fruit. Black crisp berries and softer red fruit notes race across the palate. Lovely breadth. Effortlessly broad and sweeping but so light on its toes. The feel is aerial somehow, yet intense. Full of tension, the balance between ripeness and freshness. Between weight and lift. Really pretty juice, but finishes with more intent. More serious bite from the soft tannins and the lovely acidity. Really very wonderful. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Beaux Monts Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Beaux Monts Christophe Perrot-Minot

This cask sample has a gentle whiff of reduction on the nose, which quickly passes and the delicate bouquet leads to a full palate. Loaded with juicy acidity that pumps through the nice, peppy redThis cask sample has a gentle whiff of reduction on the nose, which quickly passes and the delicate bouquet leads to a full palate. Loaded with juicy acidity that pumps through the nice, peppy red berries and good energetic middle of enticing richness. Strangely brilliant that balance of weight, silkiness and then the freshness. Clever stuff from Christophe, this almost sums up his 2017s that he says are unique with their high levels of freshness and yet ripeness. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

Magnums, case of 1

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