Vinous (Neal Martin)

Here are the wines Neal Martin rated 92 points or higher in his recently published piece, '2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic'. Click on each wine to see all the reviews.

For a full list of the top wines of which we still have availability have a look at our Last Chance Whites and Last Chance Reds lists.


This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

The Beaune-based merchant Joseph Drouhin has restyled its Chablis Domaine 'Domaine Drouhin-Vaudon' to emphasise its ties with and holdings in (38 hectares) the Chablis vineyard. The Moulin de Vaudon, an 18th Century watermill straddling the Serein River, close to the Grand Cru vineyards of Chablis, is the headquarters and the source of the name. It is the largest estate in Chablis entirely farmed biodynamically.
Domaine-Drouhin-Vaudon
2017 CHABLIS Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

2017 CHABLIS Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

We tasted 4 of the Chablis from Drouhin which all impressed, but this Les Clos is a definitive notch up. Raised in large (500l), old barrels to limit the 'wood impact' on this full and deliciousWe tasted 4 of the Chablis from Drouhin which all impressed, but this Les Clos is a definitive notch up. Raised in large (500l), old barrels to limit the 'wood impact' on this full and delicious juice. Good weight and breadth and a nice big ample middle. A sweep of pithy apple. Generous and delicious. Mineral line builds adding nice shape and push - then some good dusty spice kicks in on the back palate. This generous feeling Chablis is big and yet has just the right pinch of acidity making it juicy and moreish. Smart Chablis, but with a feel of fun and joy - and highly recommended. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Hubert Lamy

A domaine with 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are spread over Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. Olivier Lamy's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2017, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The 2017 whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness. 2017 brought no relief from the recent small harvests - thanks to early frosts which nipped the buds, yields were 10-20hl/ha in the Bourgogne and village Saint Aubins, so volumes are still decidedly short.

Olivier says of the vintage '2017 will be a solar year but very balanced with ripe wines at the beginning of the mouth and finishing on freshness, minerality, tension and a lot of energy. The élevage will be 24 months without any new wood to keep more freshness. The wines are nicely balanced, revealing aromas of citrus fruits. They are pure, fresh and mineral wines. Their chiselled and precise character means they will keep well.". As for the reds, he says 'This vintage gave very healthy red grapes, so a good proportion of the whole bunches was kept in vatting. Ruby colours, a complex nose, floral, fruity and spicy, the concentration in the mouth and soft and pleasant tannins characterise these wines which express nice notes of fresh fruits. All finesse, they show all the elements of great Burgundian red wines.'

Domaine-Hubert-Lamy
2017 SANTENAY 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SANTENAY 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

You can taste the sun on this wine, like sun on hot rock - ripe and minerally with a lovely texture, taut and bright and firm, very straight.You can taste the sun on this wine, like sun on hot rock - ripe and minerally with a lovely texture, taut and bright and firm, very straight. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy

On decomposed limestone. A rich and full wine, generous, then the limestone element pulls out the finish.On decomposed limestone. A rich and full wine, generous, then the limestone element pulls out the finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Very rich nose and much broader than the village St-Aubin. Exciting density and apparently potential.Very rich nose and much broader than the village St-Aubin. Exciting density and apparently potential. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy

Very bright pale colour, a délice from start to finish: a slight bitterness keeps the freshness - full-flavoured, ripe and long. Lots of richness here.Very bright pale colour, a délice from start to finish: a slight bitterness keeps the freshness - full-flavoured, ripe and long. Lots of richness here. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025L&S(Jul 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 SAINT AUBIN Haute Densité 1er Cru Derrière Chez Édouard Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 SAINT AUBIN Haute Densité 1er Cru Derrière Chez Édouard Domaine Hubert Lamy

This is at the top of the vineyard so steep and thinner soil and the wine does not have fruit in the middle palate of the cuvee above. It does have intensity, straight and long. It is reallyThis is at the top of the vineyard so steep and thinner soil and the wine does not have fruit in the middle palate of the cuvee above. It does have intensity, straight and long. It is really quite austere and mineral. For now I prefer the balance in the previous wine, which has more succulence... but this has the longer and more powerful finish.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Tremblots Haute Densité Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Tremblots Haute Densité Domaine Hubert Lamy

I much prefer this - it is sweeter and more mineral on the finish. There is more succulence and phenolically properly ripe. It certainly seems much better balanced than the normal density - both atI much prefer this - it is sweeter and more mineral on the finish. There is more succulence and phenolically properly ripe. It certainly seems much better balanced than the normal density - both at 13-13.5.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CRIOTS BÂTARD MONTRACHET Haute Densité Grand Cru Domaine Hubert Lamy

2017 CRIOTS BÂTARD MONTRACHET Haute Densité Grand Cru Domaine Hubert Lamy

The 2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a miniscule 0.05 hectare parcel planted in 1975, vine density has been increased to 24,000 vines in recent years. There is just a single fiveThe 2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a miniscule 0.05 hectare parcel planted in 1975, vine density has been increased to 24,000 vines in recent years. There is just a single five years old barrel, which had not been racked. It is a little muffled on the nose when I taste it, though it reveals hints of fresh pear, wet limestone and dew-speckled Granny Smith apples with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and focused but with wonderful purity and depth towards the finish, with hints of quince lingering on the aftertaste. Très bon! Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 95-97 Neal Martin, vinous.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Faiveley

The Faiveley family are the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owning around 120ha, spread across the Côtes de Nuits, Beaune and Chalonnaise and encompassing everything from generic Bourgogne up to the grandest of Grand Crus. Their holdings supply the grapes for 5 out of every 6 bottles made by Faiveley, the balance being bought in from carefully selected contract growers. At the top end these wines are right up there with the best and in 2017 these are luxurious, showy and give unadulterated pleasure. As with so many producers this year each wine really has a sense of place and knows its spot on the pecking order. Some real delights here for drinkers.
Domaine-Faiveley
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Les Champgains Domaine Faiveley

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Les Champgains Domaine Faiveley

Slightly cloudy (cask sample). Those lovely pear aromas of recently fermented Chardonnay. A touch of spice and clementine, so seductive even though so young. Creamy, rich and deep. Generous, ripe butSlightly cloudy (cask sample). Those lovely pear aromas of recently fermented Chardonnay. A touch of spice and clementine, so seductive even though so young. Creamy, rich and deep. Generous, ripe but fresh. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Joseph Drouhin

Despite the size of their vineyard holding, not all Drouhin's wines come from their own domaine, but most of the other wines do come from long-term contracts, such as exists with the Marquis de Laguiche wines. In all but name these wines are 'Domaine' wines, and the vineyards are cared for and the wines vinified with exactly the same care.
2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche 1er Cru Morgeot Joseph Drouhin

Tasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has aTasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has a waxier feel, with essence of lemon skin and then a riper, sweet line of juice in the middle. Still well-furled but you can sense the good, soft flesh just waiting below the surface. Good intensity. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 LE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

2017 LE MONTRACHET Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

Picked between the 5th of September and the 8th. Long and powerful mineral drive. Good and clean - but sleek too. A green-edged citrus fruit is the icing on richer, weightier stone-fruit lurking aPicked between the 5th of September and the 8th. Long and powerful mineral drive. Good and clean - but sleek too. A green-edged citrus fruit is the icing on richer, weightier stone-fruit lurking a bit below the radar for now. Really good feel of nice matter and density. This is long and clean for now but there will be more, for sure. That supple weight will broaden and fill out with time. One to watch, this is fine and intense. Just 30% New Oak. L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine Joseph Drouhin

For the last 130 years, Maison Joseph Drouhin has been in the hands of the Drouhin family. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm, still driven by the same passions that inspired the founder - and it remains one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy.

With this release of 2017s it is clear to see why. Not satisfied to rest on their laurels; each year small refinements continue to be made in how they operate. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open. The use of whole-bunch fermentation is now widespread. For the 2017s it makes up between 30-100% of the juice with all the Grand Cru wines and in varying amounts this process contributes to their other Red wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it.

Véronique Drouhin summed up the 2017 vintage as one that was warmer than normal, with over 200 hours of sunshine above the average and also a deficit in water over the year compared to normal. This seems to give a very appetising suppleness to some of the wines and an enticing immediacy too - yet they are far from rich or thick retaining some great finesse - particularly as you go up the 'ladder'.

Warm and dry as the data shows - it was not a totally straightforward vintage with pressure coming in the crucial month of April as the temperatures plummeted. However, thanks to lessons learnt in 2016 and the canny use of smoke to stop the sun burning the frozen vines - crisis was averted. The results speak for themselves. The 2017s have excellent maturity and they ended with quite a good-sized crop. Chassagne for Véronique was the most successful village - with pure lines and acidity - but there are some fantastic reds here as well.

Domaine-Joseph-Drouhin
2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Jérôme Faure Brac, the oenologist, is all about low intervention in the winery as he wants vineyard expression to be key. He therefore made six different harvests here from the 1st to the 6th ofJérôme Faure Brac, the oenologist, is all about low intervention in the winery as he wants vineyard expression to be key. He therefore made six different harvests here from the 1st to the 6th of September. The Drouhin team sub-divide this large Clos vineyard (7Ha) into different parcels. Harvested and vinified separately they are only blended after élevage in barrel. This is almost a year and then the blend 'assembles' for 2-3 months in tank together before bottling. The results are great. With impressive breadth and structure. There is a nice intensity to the crisp-edged, yellow fruit. Not peachy but quite ripe citrus character and nice persistence. This has impact and depth, there's lots to like and this will become even more exciting with a few years in the cellar. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Propriétés Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Propriétés Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

All the Drouhin Corton Grand Cru fruit comes from the Les Languettes parcel. They've had a good crop this year making 6 barrels, which is getting back to a normal yield. Power and push dominate here.All the Drouhin Corton Grand Cru fruit comes from the Les Languettes parcel. They've had a good crop this year making 6 barrels, which is getting back to a normal yield. Power and push dominate here. The fruit is certainly nicely rich and well-shaped but it is quite closed for now. The wine feels full on, with good structure and weight - then lifted and pushed on with lively acidity. This is fresh and firm and unrelenting. The intensity of fruit will certainly broaden the feel and fill out this brawny Grand Cru. For now impressive and brooding but there is lots to come. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
Thibault-Liger-Belair
2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Les Languettes Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Les Languettes Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from vines planted in the 1940s in Les Longuettes and comprises just two barrels. There is a slight reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to readThe 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from vines planted in the 1940s in Les Longuettes and comprises just two barrels. There is a slight reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read now. The palate is very promising with a fine bead of acidity, good concentration, a slightly waxy texture and a persistent, brioche-tinged finish. One to watch. Drinking range: 2020 - 2034 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, vinous.com(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées. The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too. 2017 is a 'New Classic Vintage' says Boris - and there certainly is a sophisticated charm to all the wines - classically shaped but with that extra bite of sheer pleasure.

Domaine-des-Lambrays
2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret Domaine des Lambrays

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret Domaine des Lambrays

Harvested 1st September. Compared to the Folatières this has a crisper edge, more tightly wound limey fruit here. It is still very pretty and poised - but this has some intent too and powerfulHarvested 1st September. Compared to the Folatières this has a crisper edge, more tightly wound limey fruit here. It is still very pretty and poised - but this has some intent too and powerful freshness. All well checked and balanced with good, measured fruit. Crisp but some good weight which means it flows well with good juice. A real delight in fact. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

After hail and frost had savagely cut the production here in four out of the previous five vintages, it was smiles and relief all round this year. In 2016 Nico had just five barrels of 'Village' Volnay, but the 'perfect' 2017 vintage has yielded 39 barrels form the same ground. How Nico has managed to keep smiling through the last few years is anyone's guess, but that's Nico. It can only be hoped that with the only slightly smaller 2018 harvest now in barrel, these troubles have come to an end. Now in its second year, he could not be happier with his new winery. A fantastic bespoke build, admittedly in a ZI (Zone industrielle) on the outskirts of Beaune, which he recognises is not ideal for the folklore aspect, but it is a perfect tool for the job, and does have a good view of all 'his' bits of the Côte - from the roof.

As we wrote last year, the wines in this cellar reflect his bounding optimism - they are generous and bouncing with energy. He describes the 2017 vintage as 'Gourmand, Friand, Fruité', which is marvellous, but at least partly untranslatable - come on chaps, we need a word for gourmand that is better than 'greedy', and another for friand which does not involve a long explanation - but 'easy to love' might do. But you get the idea. It's delish. 'Not the density of 2015, but just as well-balanced', as Nico went on to say, and 'a vintage which respects the identity of each terroir. The kind of vintage you can drink from the word go, and at any time for ten years, but which will surprise if you then find a bottle you've forgotten in the cellar, when you see it has aged brilliantly - like the 2002s'. From a Bourgogne you can drink now, through to an incredibly serious Grand-Cru-level Pommard Rugiens, this is a great set of wines.
2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 BEAUNE 1er Cru Reversées Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Always a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit isAlways a popular option on the shop shelves at L&S the 2017 Reversées is a level up in concentration, with deep colour an intriguing rich dark fruit character framed by mineral rock. The fruit is sweet and attractive. Some spice too. Good volume and concentration balanced by fresh acidity.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 POMMARD Noizons Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD Noizons Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

After the Village wine this has more charm, soft and ripe. An easy to love Pinot that puts you at ease immediately. As Nico explains, Noizons is really a Pommard for people who don’t like Pommard!After the Village wine this has more charm, soft and ripe. An easy to love Pinot that puts you at ease immediately. As Nico explains, Noizons is really a Pommard for people who don’t like Pommard! Great fruit red and supple with gentle spice, but without the Pommard bones. The vines here are on clay - which helps give that easy and sexy style. A real smoothie. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Roncerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Roncerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

'Roncerets' literally means 'Blackberry Bush' and Blackberry is certainly evident in the wine. Sweet dark fruit dominates the palate. It feels quite fat until the chalky tannins start to build and'Roncerets' literally means 'Blackberry Bush' and Blackberry is certainly evident in the wine. Sweet dark fruit dominates the palate. It feels quite fat until the chalky tannins start to build and the structure becomes more apparent. There is a good balance of elegance and power. Plenty of energy and brambly vigour. A lovely, bold Volnay. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich darkThe soil is made up of limestone and clay. Old vines. 50% whole cluster. Very silky and luscious on entry with black and exotic purple fruit - the weight is immediately apparent. Lots of rich dark fruit kept in check by noticeable acidity. Ripe tannins grow towards the end. The limestone becomes apparent at the finish with a hint of rocky mineral.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Argillières Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Argillières Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Tasted after the Clos de Vergers - this is darker and more spicily toasty on the nose. The parcel is within part of Clos de Vergers. More tannic and serious. Yet still supple and ripely done.Tasted after the Clos de Vergers - this is darker and more spicily toasty on the nose. The parcel is within part of Clos de Vergers. More tannic and serious. Yet still supple and ripely done. Dense. More limestone here, and so it is no surprise the structure is good, mineral and sculpted well. Lovely dark aromas. Charming Pommard. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The vineyard name 'Caillerets' translates as 'Small Stones' in English. The soil is made up of clay with small lumps of limestone. There is a feminine aspect to the wine - smooth on entry the wineThe vineyard name 'Caillerets' translates as 'Small Stones' in English. The soil is made up of clay with small lumps of limestone. There is a feminine aspect to the wine - smooth on entry the wine has attractive fruit with lots of mineral flavour woven around it. It is well balanced - the weight of juice is well supported by noticeable tannin and acidity. Great finesse. L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Épenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Épenots Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

The Épenots parcel is made up of vines that were planted 112 years ago (75% of the cuvée) with some that are 50 years old. The oldest vines are a little plot owned by Vincent, who works for NicolasThe Épenots parcel is made up of vines that were planted 112 years ago (75% of the cuvée) with some that are 50 years old. The oldest vines are a little plot owned by Vincent, who works for Nicolas and trusts him to make the best wine with them. The result is Grand Cru quality. Very rich and complete on the nose. A mineral core. Red, black fruit and spice. The deep fruit is joined by mouth-coating velvety tannins. Slightly closed at this stage but the tension and energy is apparent and hugely impressive. Drinking range: 2026 - L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Comte Armand

A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.

The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.

Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.

The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.

Paul has nailed his colours to the mast by saying he wants to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.

2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

2017 AUXEY DURESSES 1er Cru Domaine Comte Armand

This comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas deThis comes from two different plots, each with very different terroirs. 40% from Bertrands which is made up of lots of limestone and adds real finesse. The remaining 60% comes from the Bas de Duresses which has deeper soil, more clay. This adds the depth and weight to the blend. Paul is not planning to fine nor filter this and you can see why. There is good density and great energy. Really joyously vibrant, but it is hard not to like the nicely ripe fruit too. This is measured and has good push with pretty red fruit. A great Auxey. L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Comte Armand

A seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberryA seriously inviting nose a richness to the fruit. a lovely powerful ripe core. After the Auxey this feels almost broad and sweepingly ripe and juicy. Loaded with rich red berries and warm strawberry flesh. Kept in check by a good, suedey underside. Overla this feels like it will be drinking from the get go. nusually with this Volnay they have done somne some pigeage, Paul is not big in to it - but he felt this wine needed a touch of extraction and intensity. The fruit comes form 2 plots. One is made up of 90 year old vines - the other is 33 years old. After 2016 he was considering pulling out the old vines. But he is really happy with them in 2017. 25% New wood here. 10% Whole Bunch. Drinking range: 2020 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

2017 POMMARD 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux Domaine Comte Armand

Tasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vinesTasting this in the cellar, the final wine is not yet complete so we tasted the 2 constituent parts and then a final blend put together by Paul. The first part (40%) comes from the younger vines which are between 35 and 55 years old. There is great poise to this and lovely push. There is a firmness that pushes back at you here, a remarkable powerful wall of minerality that is like a brooding edifice. Creating a crisp backdrop to the nice weight of bright red fruit. Pretty Pinot with a lifted character. Crunchy and nervy. The majority (60%) will be made up of the old vine parcel, 65-90 year old vines. This component is on another plain. So much more richness here. a lovely sweeter feel. Great depth. Denser, really quite wonderfully indulgent. A much more luxurious and decadent feel. Darker red fruit and super texture. The resultant blend is very impressive. Somehow more perfumed on the nose. This expresses itself really nicely. generous but well measured. Comes together well and you totally see the decision on these proportions. That dense richer fruit sits well on the brighter, firmer lift of the younger vines. Good delivery now - ample weight and good level of ping. Nicely complementary components that end up well balanced but certainly generous on the fruit side. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine Henri Boillot

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.

The Domaine totals around 14 hectares, with roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. The 2017 vintage saw the arrival of two new parcels of Grand Cru red, in Échezeaux and Latricières Chambertin

In November 2018 we tasted with Henri while Guillaume was busy in the cellar, working on the just harvested 2018s, and he was very upbeat about the 2017s - rightly so. They harvested the whites between the 27th and 30th August - going early to preserve the energy which is increasingly a hallmark here.

Henri says this year is quite like 2016 but with a bit more weight he thinks. There is lovely acidity like the 2013s. He explains that 2017s have the same acidity as the 2016s - but with a note more glycerol which pads out the middle. The results are delicious, delectable wines you want to drink.

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Henri Boillot

After the Fremiets there is immediately more texture, more grip here. A good feel and some nicely ripe fruit. Yes again there is the glycerine like texture to the fruit core, but the darker notes andAfter the Fremiets there is immediately more texture, more grip here. A good feel and some nicely ripe fruit. Yes again there is the glycerine like texture to the fruit core, but the darker notes and the grip begin to build in the mouth, black fruits compete with the softly ripe red berries. An impressive Chevrets, dark and brooding but very suave. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Fremiets Domaine Henri Boillot

More aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. AgainMore aromatic complexity here on the nose. Some dark raspberry and then some more floral, dried petals and darker berry fruit. Palate is intense. Deeply flavoured juice, nicely concentrated. Again that lovely sleek flow, the glycerol coated glide across the palate that is so inviting. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Henri Boillot

2017 VOLNAY 1er Cru Caillerets Domaine Henri Boillot

The Caillerets is the most serious of the Boillots' Volnays and it is all fermented in barrel. Which are specially modified to have big holes to get the grapes in and out. The nose has violets andThe Caillerets is the most serious of the Boillots' Volnays and it is all fermented in barrel. Which are specially modified to have big holes to get the grapes in and out. The nose has violets and deep red flesh of plum and some damson skin pep too. Lively and higher-toned than the Fremiets or Chevret. More ethereal with its flow - but the fruit is beautifully weighted and so satisfying. Gorgeous dark notes keep this feeling more serious but is is really good and full of pleasure. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine Faiveley

The Faiveley family are the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owning around 120ha, spread across the Côtes de Nuits, Beaune and Chalonnaise and encompassing everything from generic Bourgogne up to the grandest of Grand Crus. Their holdings supply the grapes for 5 out of every 6 bottles made by Faiveley, the balance being bought in from carefully selected contract growers. At the top end these wines are right up there with the best and in 2017 these are luxurious, showy and give unadulterated pleasure. As with so many producers this year each wine really has a sense of place and knows its spot on the pecking order. Some real delights here for drinkers.
Domaine-Faiveley
2017 CORTON Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Domaine Faiveley

2017 CORTON Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Domaine Faiveley

This is superbly pretty on the nose. In the palate there is an easy and very good feel - full of energy and joy. A delicacy to it with nothing like as much brawn and breadth as the Mazis nor the BezeThis is superbly pretty on the nose. In the palate there is an easy and very good feel - full of energy and joy. A delicacy to it with nothing like as much brawn and breadth as the Mazis nor the Beze which we tasted before. The Cortons is a super elegant and pretty wine with poise and power. Bring it on! Powerfully elegant - this is so attractive already that it feels almost ready to go, but the compact nature of that zipping core lets you know this has much more to give in time, however attractive it already is. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine Joseph Drouhin

For the last 130 years, Maison Joseph Drouhin has been in the hands of the Drouhin family. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm, still driven by the same passions that inspired the founder - and it remains one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy.

With this release of 2017s it is clear to see why. Not satisfied to rest on their laurels; each year small refinements continue to be made in how they operate. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open. The use of whole-bunch fermentation is now widespread. For the 2017s it makes up between 30-100% of the juice with all the Grand Cru wines and in varying amounts this process contributes to their other Red wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it.

Véronique Drouhin summed up the 2017 vintage as one that was warmer than normal, with over 200 hours of sunshine above the average and also a deficit in water over the year compared to normal. This seems to give a very appetising suppleness to some of the wines and an enticing immediacy too - yet they are far from rich or thick retaining some great finesse - particularly as you go up the 'ladder'.

Warm and dry as the data shows - it was not a totally straightforward vintage with pressure coming in the crucial month of April as the temperatures plummeted. However, thanks to lessons learnt in 2016 and the canny use of smoke to stop the sun burning the frozen vines - crisis was averted. The results speak for themselves. The 2017s have excellent maturity and they ended with quite a good-sized crop. Chassagne for Véronique was the most successful village - with pure lines and acidity - but there are some fantastic reds here as well.

Domaine-Joseph-Drouhin
2017 BEAUNE Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 BEAUNE Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Tasted after the 1er Cru 'Cras' Beaune - and this is a pleasing step up. The Clos des Mouches is brighter and more minerality driven.With a dense, focused red fruit compote at the core, gilded by aTasted after the 1er Cru 'Cras' Beaune - and this is a pleasing step up. The Clos des Mouches is brighter and more minerality driven.With a dense, focused red fruit compote at the core, gilded by a darker line of blackberry and soft plum flesh - and a nicely textured scratchy weight as the tannins buid. Good drive and good feel too. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
Thibault-Liger-Belair
2017 CORTON RENARDES Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CORTON RENARDES Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has 2 parcels here; 1 is higher up the hill with really deep soils. The combination, Thibault explains, adds real complexity. He has included 40% Whole bunch too, to add some lift, despiteThibault has 2 parcels here; 1 is higher up the hill with really deep soils. The combination, Thibault explains, adds real complexity. He has included 40% Whole bunch too, to add some lift, despite the limestone soils which already influence the clean sweeping feel. Sweet attack. Fruit is poised but ripe. Remains light on its toes - rich not thick - but sweet and with easy flow - it is good. About a third new oak. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Henri Boillot

Henri Boillot complements his domaine wines with a small range of négociant wines of superb quality in very limited quantities. A few of the wines are offered here - an opportunity to buy some of Burgundy's rarest appellations from a top source.
Henri-Boillot
2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Henri Boillot

2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Henri Boillot

Wow. This hits you with a hugely broad wave of lovely, full fruit. Dark plum and sweeter red strawberry flesh mix to create a bright and intense core of deliciousness. Punctuated with dots of superWow. This hits you with a hugely broad wave of lovely, full fruit. Dark plum and sweeter red strawberry flesh mix to create a bright and intense core of deliciousness. Punctuated with dots of super fresh acidity that keep this so alive and energetic. Pings around your mouth and finishes more full on with that impact of broad fruit once again. Top drawer Grand Cru from this dynamic estate where the reds in particular are shifting up a gear with Guillaume's increasing influence.L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 3

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2017 LE CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Henri Boillot

2017 LE CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Henri Boillot

Delicious. Richly weighted. Full and yet so clean and lifted. This flies on a higher plain despite the great weight to the fruit mass. Lovely peppy juice. black and sweet middle - some greener,Delicious. Richly weighted. Full and yet so clean and lifted. This flies on a higher plain despite the great weight to the fruit mass. Lovely peppy juice. black and sweet middle - some greener, almost herbal notes too, a crisper leafy edge that adds a crunch and a delicious succulence. Complex and nuanced. This has so much to give. A super option for the cellar. L&S(Oct 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 3

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Domaine Anne Gros

Anne Gros joined her father François at the family domaine in Vosne Romanée in 1988, having given up her arts studies in favour of viticulture and oenology at Beaune and Dijon, she took charge of the domaine in 1995 and has been joined now by 2 of her children Julie since 2015 and Paul since 2017. The Domaine now has 7 hectares of Pinot and Chardonnay. Anne describes herself as being 'wary of certainties and keen to preserve her freedom'.

In the vineyards Anne practises viticulture influenced by organic and biodynamic principles, and the vineyards are ploughed and fertilised with compost, but although she believes that the long-term health of the vineyards are best preserved by such methods, she likes to maintain the freedom to use conventional treatments when necessary.

In the cellar, the wines are classically made, in cement tanks for the reds, and stainless steel for the whites. They are then aged in barrel for up to fifteen months, with 80% new wood for the grand crus, 50% for the village wines and 30% for the regional wines. Anne is quietly meticulous and almost obsessive about cleanliness in her cellar, which perhaps is reflected in the delicacy and restrained tension in her wines, which have aromatic clarity, limpid precision, sheer joie de vivre, lively balance and persistence.

There is a bit more wine here than in some recent vintages - a chance to get on the list of one of most sought-after Domaines of Burgundy.

2017 CLOS DE VOUGEOT Le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

2017 CLOS DE VOUGEOT Le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

After the stonking Richebourg there is more pep here, more vigour on the attack. This is a really fine style. For Clos Vougeot this is very svelte and seemlessly sexy. Enough shape and bones for aAfter the stonking Richebourg there is more pep here, more vigour on the attack. This is a really fine style. For Clos Vougeot this is very svelte and seemlessly sexy. Enough shape and bones for a longer haul without doubt - but there is an incredible sleek flow with gentle persistence and remarkable charm! Just wow. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Les Loachausses Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Les Loachausses Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

Yum. So pretty. A great cocktail of nicely ripe berries some bluer notes too and a crisper feel. Very soft and so sleek - not shiny and polished but a lovely powdery feel. Just a whisper of delicateYum. So pretty. A great cocktail of nicely ripe berries some bluer notes too and a crisper feel. Very soft and so sleek - not shiny and polished but a lovely powdery feel. Just a whisper of delicate minerality on the finish. Classy Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Very special. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 RICHEBOURG Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

2017 RICHEBOURG Grand Cru Domaine Anne Gros

Very sexy on the nose -pure essence of wild red berry fruit, such pretty aromatics. Higher toned than the Echezeaux, with a slightly lither, more muscular feel but this is still pretty. Some moreVery sexy on the nose -pure essence of wild red berry fruit, such pretty aromatics. Higher toned than the Echezeaux, with a slightly lither, more muscular feel but this is still pretty. Some more tightly-wound elements - but the fruit here is pretty, so pretty! Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 3

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Domaine Lignier-Michelot

A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.

In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.

The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.

Virgile's 2017s were all showing brilliantly when we visited in November, and repeated at our Jan 7th tasting - this domaine is in our view one to follow very closely as the prices have not yet caught up with the growing quality.

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

90% Whole Bunch. More brawn here than the Rue de Vergy. There is great intensity. More definition and more energy too. This has lovely exuberance to it. More power and push. More black fruited with90% Whole Bunch. More brawn here than the Rue de Vergy. There is great intensity. More definition and more energy too. This has lovely exuberance to it. More power and push. More black fruited with juicy ripe dark plum. Really polished effort. Delicious. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Les Chenevery Domaine Lignier-Michelot

80% Whole Bunch, What a magnificent opening. Great weight of liquid fruit. Intensely flavoured and getting darker in the mouth. Nicely restrained mineral heft builds here. This is heady. Aromatics80% Whole Bunch, What a magnificent opening. Great weight of liquid fruit. Intensely flavoured and getting darker in the mouth. Nicely restrained mineral heft builds here. This is heady. Aromatics soar and there is such drive and power. Lots of spice and plum flesh followed by acidity that keeps it juicy and energetic. So alive. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Lignier-Michelot

80% Whole bunch. This has real intense power at its core. Broad fruit, deep red and some black notes - but all well ripened and full on. Pure and yet quite charmingly crowd-pleasing matter lies at80% Whole bunch. This has real intense power at its core. Broad fruit, deep red and some black notes - but all well ripened and full on. Pure and yet quite charmingly crowd-pleasing matter lies at the core of this - and it is delivered in a very polished way. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux Domaine Lignier-Michelot

100% Whole Bunch here in 2017, Virgile always uses quite a lot with this wine, but this year he lost some fruit (he's down to just 3 barrels) and he needed the stems in the cuve to help fill it up.100% Whole Bunch here in 2017, Virgile always uses quite a lot with this wine, but this year he lost some fruit (he's down to just 3 barrels) and he needed the stems in the cuve to help fill it up. There is no pigeage this year as Virgile is more and more into delicate extraction, in 2017 he found such ripeness in the stems - that the wine is naturally concentrated and intense. Initially there is a little more reserve on the fruit side at, a little more structure here. Nicely framed by some very fine tannin. Fruit does build though and is really quite luxuriant when it builds. The long finish has some of that fine scrape of mineral dust and a brisk freshness. Good. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS 1er Cru Faconnières Domaine Lignier-Michelot

50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and50% Whole Bunch this year. This has a soft attack, but quickly gains a more serious edge in the mouth. Building structure and concentrated fruit intensity. Broad yet with nicely cut, clean lines and a minerality that begins to tussle for superiority over the fruit. Lovely balance. Fruit is rich and loaded with good cherry notes, and yet the mineral core is superb also. Impressive stuff and just a little more muscle and grunt than the humdinger from Stephan Magnien. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Cuvée Jules 1er Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Cuvée Jules 1er Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

100% whole bunch. From Chabiots, Chatelots and Sentiers. Delicate freshness on floral fruit nose. It feels silky and fine, with a saline, rich, cool red petal and red fruit intensity in the middle.100% whole bunch. From Chabiots, Chatelots and Sentiers. Delicate freshness on floral fruit nose. It feels silky and fine, with a saline, rich, cool red petal and red fruit intensity in the middle. Lovely! Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Jan 2019)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

All silk and elegance, this initially somes across as less punchily concentrated than the Faconnieres, but it is fabulously balanced and sleek, and all in supple length. Dark fruit expression, long,All silk and elegance, this initially somes across as less punchily concentrated than the Faconnieres, but it is fabulously balanced and sleek, and all in supple length. Dark fruit expression, long, long finish.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CLOS SAINT DENIS Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

2017 CLOS SAINT DENIS Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot

This immediately has a little more impact than the Clos de la Roche tasted just before. Yet the fruit profile is dominated by lovely, lithe red fruit. So fine. Such elegance to the feel. Not soThis immediately has a little more impact than the Clos de la Roche tasted just before. Yet the fruit profile is dominated by lovely, lithe red fruit. So fine. Such elegance to the feel. Not so richly scented or ripened. Really sleek feel to the fruit core which is well supported by the very fine dusting of perky tannins and a lovely line of pure crisp acidity which is like an arrow of energy pushing on and on. Impressive and indulgent wine. Rich intensity but a bouncy, pure energy that keeps you wanting more. a great expression of a great terroir. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Faiveley

The Faiveley family are the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owning around 120ha, spread across the Côtes de Nuits, Beaune and Chalonnaise and encompassing everything from generic Bourgogne up to the grandest of Grand Crus. Their holdings supply the grapes for 5 out of every 6 bottles made by Faiveley, the balance being bought in from carefully selected contract growers. At the top end these wines are right up there with the best and in 2017 these are luxurious, showy and give unadulterated pleasure. As with so many producers this year each wine really has a sense of place and knows its spot on the pecking order. Some real delights here for drinkers.
Domaine-Faiveley
2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

After tasting the Mazis the immediate feel here is softer, but there is some leather and more restraint to the fruit. This is bright and has good powdered energy. a chalky drive keeps it so fresh -After tasting the Mazis the immediate feel here is softer, but there is some leather and more restraint to the fruit. This is bright and has good powdered energy. a chalky drive keeps it so fresh - but there is a racy sleekness to the red and purple fruit. Good and intense. Smart stuff indeed. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 LATRICIÈRES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 LATRICIÈRES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

An impressive start here with really good push and drive. A leaner cleaner core. The scrubbed, textured core of fruit is pushed firmly on by the lovely mineral energy here. Exciting ride and bounce.An impressive start here with really good push and drive. A leaner cleaner core. The scrubbed, textured core of fruit is pushed firmly on by the lovely mineral energy here. Exciting ride and bounce. This is impressive. Very pure fruit is dark and yet glossy - but well wrapped up for now. More compact and more serious than the Charmes or Echezeaux at this stage. Impressive. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 ÉCHEZEAUX 'en Orveaux' Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 ÉCHEZEAUX 'en Orveaux' Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

After the Clos Vougeot this is another notch up on the mineral scale. Almost pulsing with crisp drive. Great bright lines charge through this and the flow is superb. Real intensity to the firmishAfter the Clos Vougeot this is another notch up on the mineral scale. Almost pulsing with crisp drive. Great bright lines charge through this and the flow is superb. Real intensity to the firmish fruit. Notes of an apple and blackberry crumble - but without any sweetness or richness. The central core of fruit is really attractive, but measured and compacted for now. This is really attractive Echezeaux. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 CLOS DE VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 CLOS DE VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

Good impact. Again like the Clos St Denis - there is a big step up in feel and power. The intensity is great. There is a 'just ripe' note to the fruit and then a mineral drive. Super fine tannins addGood impact. Again like the Clos St Denis - there is a big step up in feel and power. The intensity is great. There is a 'just ripe' note to the fruit and then a mineral drive. Super fine tannins add frame and hold - but this is an attractive flowing wine and is so clearly Grand Cru material. Impressively lithe and pushing. Another really good Clos Vougeot. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

2017 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Faiveley

On the nose there is a really attractive note of cassis essence here, which follows to the palate with a regal feeling. Richly ripe and a supple breadth - but with a fine-grained texture and gentleOn the nose there is a really attractive note of cassis essence here, which follows to the palate with a regal feeling. Richly ripe and a supple breadth - but with a fine-grained texture and gentle grip that just holds this ample and rich weight of deep, red fruit. Impressive tension keeps it alive and with great ping. Yes. The power and velvety push is very enchanting. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Cazetiers Domaine Faiveley

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Cazetiers Domaine Faiveley

Good attack, More drive than the Lavaux St Jacques and this is nicely loaded with plum and cherry fruit. The core has a good ripeness - but there is an edge of more crisp pep, which adds a usefulGood attack, More drive than the Lavaux St Jacques and this is nicely loaded with plum and cherry fruit. The core has a good ripeness - but there is an edge of more crisp pep, which adds a useful lift. It has a nice juicy flow and purity of fruit, but there is an immediate pleasure here. The fruit is already so inviting it seems this is ready to go, a real pleasure to taste. It will be interesting to see how this evolves but it would seem this should be delicious drinking over the next 3-5 years while we wait for the 2015's and 2016s to mature. Drinking range: 2019 - 2024L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Joseph Drouhin

For the last 130 years, Maison Joseph Drouhin has been in the hands of the Drouhin family. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm, still driven by the same passions that inspired the founder - and it remains one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy.

With this release of 2017s it is clear to see why. Not satisfied to rest on their laurels; each year small refinements continue to be made in how they operate. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open. The use of whole-bunch fermentation is now widespread. For the 2017s it makes up between 30-100% of the juice with all the Grand Cru wines and in varying amounts this process contributes to their other Red wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it.

Véronique Drouhin summed up the 2017 vintage as one that was warmer than normal, with over 200 hours of sunshine above the average and also a deficit in water over the year compared to normal. This seems to give a very appetising suppleness to some of the wines and an enticing immediacy too - yet they are far from rich or thick retaining some great finesse - particularly as you go up the 'ladder'.

Warm and dry as the data shows - it was not a totally straightforward vintage with pressure coming in the crucial month of April as the temperatures plummeted. However, thanks to lessons learnt in 2016 and the canny use of smoke to stop the sun burning the frozen vines - crisis was averted. The results speak for themselves. The 2017s have excellent maturity and they ended with quite a good-sized crop. Chassagne for Véronique was the most successful village - with pure lines and acidity - but there are some fantastic reds here as well.

Domaine-Joseph-Drouhin
2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Baudes Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Baudes Joseph Drouhin

Better balance and poise than the Nuits village tasted before. Really quite nice ripeness to the fruit. An easy, satisfying Chambolle-Musigny - not simple, but perhaps not with the extreme delicacyBetter balance and poise than the Nuits village tasted before. Really quite nice ripeness to the fruit. An easy, satisfying Chambolle-Musigny - not simple, but perhaps not with the extreme delicacy you might be hunting as a Chambolle purist. Easy with a supple juiciness and pleasing.L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

25-35% whole-bunch fermentation here and 30% New Oak. This is surprisingly restrained. Great power and pent up energy. For now though it is quite well pact. Very good fruit. Just enough chew, but25-35% whole-bunch fermentation here and 30% New Oak. This is surprisingly restrained. Great power and pent up energy. For now though it is quite well pact. Very good fruit. Just enough chew, but something more leafy too. Lovely peppy acidity keeps things flowing. Good promise for a fine future comes from the buzzing finish. The Drouhins changed their source of Chrmes fruit a few years ago and this is certainly a step up. Although they do not own this, they do rate the vigneron highly and you can see why. Big cask ‘Integrale’ fermentation again 100% whole clusters for some of the juice. Adds shape and flow. Charming. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 GRANDS ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

2017 GRANDS ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Joseph Drouhin

35% Whole Clusters, 30% New Oak. This is another of their own vineyards. Right at the top left side of the Grands Echezeaux - beyond Clos Vougeot as you look to the côte from the road. This has35% Whole Clusters, 30% New Oak. This is another of their own vineyards. Right at the top left side of the Grands Echezeaux - beyond Clos Vougeot as you look to the côte from the road. This has more pep and grip and intensity. Beautifully aromatic and gentle on the nose but this certainly tastes like it has a future. The fruit is nicely ripe and has a certain sweet note, the feel is luxurious. Ripe but well held by the acidity and darker lined edge of some wood and meatier black fruit working in harmony with the build of spicy tannins. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Nicely rich. Some cocoa-powder like dusting. Fruit is nice, rich plum juice and some firmer darker berries too. A cooler drive and a nice feel. Fruit ripens as it opens on the palate. 40% WholeNicely rich. Some cocoa-powder like dusting. Fruit is nice, rich plum juice and some firmer darker berries too. A cooler drive and a nice feel. Fruit ripens as it opens on the palate. 40% Whole cluster. This is serious and seriously charming too. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 BONNES MARES Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

There are two barrels of the 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, dried peony, licorice and sweet soil tones. On theThere are two barrels of the 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, a decidedly promising wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, dried peony, licorice and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and layered, with superb concentration and depth for the vintage, framed by a broad-shouldered chassis of fine-grained but chalky tannin and underpinned by a lovely line of acidity. Rating: 92-94+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jan 2019)

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Petits Monts Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Petits Monts Domaine Joseph Drouhin

As ever the 'Petits Monts' is one of the stars of the show here. The parcel is high up the slope - above DRCs Richebourg and next to Cros Parentoux - an impressive spot which does notAs ever the 'Petits Monts' is one of the stars of the show here. The parcel is high up the slope - above DRCs Richebourg and next to Cros Parentoux - an impressive spot which does not disappoint. One of the last that they pick as its height means it ripens quite late. The first vintage was 1985 and they really seem to understand the vineyard. The have nailed it once again in 2017. Lovely light middle but good energy is lively with cherry skin and cranberry crunch. There is sap too and riper juice lurking - driven on brilliantly by a fine-line of minerality that weaves its way throughout the well-kempt core. For some of the juice they ferment by 'Vendange Integral'. With whole bunches going in to a 500l puncheon for fermentation. Veronique explains this adds elegance and explains the lightness in colour. This is an superbly elegant wine. Pretty and with a suavely energetic drive. Lithe and bright. Very good. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Tasting this delicious wine reminds you why Chambolle is such a great village. This esteemed 1er Cru vineyard gives you everything you can dream of with Chambolle Musigny, Lovely elegant, gentleTasting this delicious wine reminds you why Chambolle is such a great village. This esteemed 1er Cru vineyard gives you everything you can dream of with Chambolle Musigny, Lovely elegant, gentle attack does not lack intensity and there is a ripe feel to the pretty red fruit. - the floral notes build with rose petal and cherry blossom in such a gorgeously gentle, but defined way. The detailing here is gorgeously precise - yet has such a pretty softness too. Really very delicious - aromatic with a fine mineral backdrop - classic, lacy, soft feel and a big step up from their village wine. Refined wine yet this gives simple pleasure. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

30% Whole-Bunch and 30% New Oak. Picked between 8-11 September. Firmish feel with good grip and concentration. Quite ripe middle to the juice. and good intent. Charming for sure and with good gentle30% Whole-Bunch and 30% New Oak. Picked between 8-11 September. Firmish feel with good grip and concentration. Quite ripe middle to the juice. and good intent. Charming for sure and with good gentle push. This is unmistakably Grand Cru. Oozing class and determined drive with with a very 2017 soft appeal. Their fruit comes from the middle of the Clos - near the abandoned house (La Follie) - which they co-own with Etienne de Montille. Very good. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 LE MUSIGNY Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

2017 LE MUSIGNY Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin

The 2017 Musigny Grand Cru was picked on September 8 and includes 40% whole clusters. It has a very intense bouquet of exquisitely defined brambly red fruit, crushed stone and pressed rose petalThe 2017 Musigny Grand Cru was picked on September 8 and includes 40% whole clusters. It has a very intense bouquet of exquisitely defined brambly red fruit, crushed stone and pressed rose petal aromas. With continued aeration there are hints of vervain tea and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannin. There is a little more density here compared to the Les Amoureuses. White pepper and light sage and saline notes emerge toward the classy finish. Superb... but I have a penchant for the Les Amoureuses this year. Drinking range: 2022 - 2045 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, vinous.com(Jan 2019)

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Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The steady progression of this domaine has been fascinating to watch as Thibault gradually refines his approach to each parcel of vines, and there can be no question with the commissioning of his new state of the art cellar this year that the 2016s are among the best he has ever made. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum, with wood chosen and aged by him, and barrels made with almost no toasting. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.
Domaine-Thibault-Liger-Belair
2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Aux Réas Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Aux Réas Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Heavily limestone dominated soil here, so once again, Thibault felt no need to include any whole bunches this year. Always quite a saline terroir but Thibault believes even more so in 2017 withHeavily limestone dominated soil here, so once again, Thibault felt no need to include any whole bunches this year. Always quite a saline terroir but Thibault believes even more so in 2017 with whiffs of iodine even. The intense more savoury notes really do measure the weight of fruit nicely. This has a pretty shape and delicate lines. More saline yes - lovely mineral freshness, but some pretty fruit is there too. This is going to be a freshly elegant Vosne. Good and smart stuff. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interestingThibault has 2 hectares here - and he is much more upbeat this year as it gave him 27 barrels in 2017 after the tiny haul of just 8 in 2016! Much of the wines charm can be linked to the interesting soil here which has some clay but a very high density of small white pebbles which changes everything. He had to do 2 distinct harvests here. First to pick off the best bunches for whole bunch fermenting and the second is all destemmed fruit. This is broadly structured with good shoulders. More upright and more intense than the Vosne and there is a dry line which underscores this classy core of more weighty, sleek fruit. Some blueberry and plumskin measure the ripe feel - joined by warm raspberries and a more leafy edge. Good juicy acidity too balances the weight nicely. THis is a very smart, accessible Nuits from Thibault. Recommended.. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Aux Charmes Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Aux Charmes Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault Liger-Belair's Charmes-Chambertin comes from the Aux Charmes climat, close to Chambertin. Made with 70% whole bunches (with the central stem removed) and 100% new wood, this is fresh, sappyThibault Liger-Belair's Charmes-Chambertin comes from the Aux Charmes climat, close to Chambertin. Made with 70% whole bunches (with the central stem removed) and 100% new wood, this is fresh, sappy and very aromatic, with subtle wood, some clove and white pepper spice and good underlying minerality and tension, as the French like to say. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Two thirds of this fruit comes from his plot of older vines planted at the end of the 2nd World War - which he does a lot of 'stemwork' on - these whole bunches account for 40%. The final thirdTwo thirds of this fruit comes from his plot of older vines planted at the end of the 2nd World War - which he does a lot of 'stemwork' on - these whole bunches account for 40%. The final third comes from much younger plot on the Echezeaux side, these vines were planted in 2012 and are all destemmed. Tasted after the Corton you are struck immediatley by the more structured frame. Intense and powerful. There is an earthy grunt, a compacted mineral drive through the middle. Crunchy fruit - a wilder side. Unmistakably serious, grand cru lines which are joyfully gilded with nicely brambling fruit and lots spice. A 'lifting' energy builds. Very good, sophisticated. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 RICHEBOURG Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

2017 RICHEBOURG Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The vineyard dates from 1931 although inevitably some of the vines had to be replanted after the war. Thibault explains he feels Richebourg can walk a tricky line between power and elegance. He saysThe vineyard dates from 1931 although inevitably some of the vines had to be replanted after the war. Thibault explains he feels Richebourg can walk a tricky line between power and elegance. He says he finds it can even be a bit blocky when young - but for Thibault the whole bunch element really helps join up the conflicting elements you can get in Richebourg, and this year he's included 30% Whole bunch - his highest level ever. Tasted after the Les St Georges - this impresses with more power, more grip, more intensity. Ripe fruit in the middle heavy with dark and sweet berries. Good, juicy acidity and the fine tannins soften on the finish. Nicely sculpted fruit with some ping and push. Its all here and this is an impressive, sophisticated Grand Cru. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

The sisters Marie-Christine and Marie Andrée have been firmly in control of this exceptional domaine for some years now. With one a pharmacist and the other an oenologist, the domaine was always going to be in safe hands as far as the wine-making was concerned and in 2017, Lucie, Marie-Christine's daughter has joined the team officially. These are top-flight burgundies with that elusive balance of enough concentration allied with delicacy of expression and the capability of ageing well. The exciting news here is that Fabrice Vigot is giving up his métayage, so another four hectares of vines, in Bourgogne, Nuits 'village', Vosne and Échezeaux will come back into the management of the domaine and the amount of wine available should increase a little from 2017 vintage. These wines are as good (and as sought-after) as ever.
Domaine-Georges-Mugneret-Gibourg
2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Chaignots Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Chaignots Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

Tasting this after the Vosne Romanée there is a distinctly more primary feeling to the fruit. Ripe, black flesh and some sweet plums too, then a bite of cherry skin which kicks into a fizzing energyTasting this after the Vosne Romanée there is a distinctly more primary feeling to the fruit. Ripe, black flesh and some sweet plums too, then a bite of cherry skin which kicks into a fizzing energy here too. Lovely density, yet with lovely flow. Graceful, but with intent. This is delicious. That red fruit edge on the finish gives a lift and a further bounce of energy. Ripe fruit so well managed and just enough dark edge too to add complexity Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Feusselottes Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

2017 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Feusselottes Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

This year they managed 10 barrels of Chambolle - a great improvement on last year when they filled just 1 after the devastating 2016 frost. The vines were very productive bouncing back from the quietThis year they managed 10 barrels of Chambolle - a great improvement on last year when they filled just 1 after the devastating 2016 frost. The vines were very productive bouncing back from the quiet season last year, having been frosted. To ensure quality and intensity a heavy green harvest was needed. Nose has more meatiness more brawn it would seem. Still beautifully aromatic - but somehow less delicate than you might expect from Chambolle. In a good way though, this has tempo and build. The palate is gorgeous. Rich and polished with mega flow and intent. Lots of great red flesh. Ripe plum and just a splash of darker more intriguing grippy savour too. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 RUCHOTTES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

2017 RUCHOTTES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

No change here really in terms of quantity as conditions throughtout the season were kind. They say that the whole of Gevery Chambertin was not touched by frost in 2016 nor 2017. After the EchezeauxNo change here really in terms of quantity as conditions throughtout the season were kind. They say that the whole of Gevery Chambertin was not touched by frost in 2016 nor 2017. After the Echezeaux this is immediately more intense, with a good, dark feel. More gloss and weight to the fruit core though. This is heady and has a great luxurious sweep to it some how. There's a mineral undertow too, gently persistent which adds freshness and length. Impressive stuff, gloriously fine and with succulent drive, and a gentle notch more robust than the Chambolle. 70% New Wood. They have 0.60 of a hectare in this plot which they share with two others - Rousseau and Roumier. Their parcel is in 'Ruchottes du Bas' with the forest right behind them, an erstwhile protector of the vines there from extreme conditions. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

2017 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

Their parcel here in Clos Vougeot is a gem, right between Meo-Camuzet's vines and the parcel of Domaine Lamarche. The pretty nose does not give too much away. inviting soft fruit - and then pow,Their parcel here in Clos Vougeot is a gem, right between Meo-Camuzet's vines and the parcel of Domaine Lamarche. The pretty nose does not give too much away. inviting soft fruit - and then pow, the palate is super. Gently building power and push. Less gloss for now, less obvious richness than expected at the outset. The mineral dusting and fine tannins add spice and pep and life - the fruit remains more tightly furled. Firm, purple flesh and some softer red berries are delicious but subtly done. Clean, broad and with calm energy and life. A wine with a future. again this is super attractive. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

2017 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

So pretty. Small firmish berries and then beautifully intense fruit core. sweet red juicy is peppy and not too glossy. Nice grip from such super-fine tannins. There is a lift and a clarity to thisSo pretty. Small firmish berries and then beautifully intense fruit core. sweet red juicy is peppy and not too glossy. Nice grip from such super-fine tannins. There is a lift and a clarity to this which is gorgeous. Such poise and flow. Impressive. Not a beast, a genteel, quietly powerful wine with very classy restraint a classic 'house' touch to this Grand Cru. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées. The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too. 2017 is a 'New Classic Vintage' says Boris - and there certainly is a sophisticated charm to all the wines - classically shaped but with that extra bite of sheer pleasure.

Domaine-des-Lambrays
2017 CLOS DES LAMBRAYS Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays

2017 CLOS DES LAMBRAYS Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays

Lovely quite aristocratic nose, petals and dark leafy aromas backed by sophisticated fruit. This is good, really good. A lovely gentle intensity, but with grace and yet energy too. Super drive. SuchLovely quite aristocratic nose, petals and dark leafy aromas backed by sophisticated fruit. This is good, really good. A lovely gentle intensity, but with grace and yet energy too. Super drive. Such fine dusting of tannin they are barely there. A seamless, polished wine but still laden with detail and character. Boris was fascinating about the details of his wine-making here. The wine finished its Malo early, by December 1st 2017. He thinks that whole bunch fermentation releases potassium and other nutrients that are good for the bacteria - and this accelerates the process. He thinks you should go with this flow - not try and cool the cellar and slow down the natural process. Whatever he's up to it is certainly working. This may be a 'big ticket' wine - but it is well worth your consideration as it will offer fabulous mid to long term drinking. Smart. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 6

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Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

Christophe is now the fourth generation of his family producing wine on the estate after his great grandfather Amédée Merme devoted himself to the management and production of wine over 130 years ago. The estate has gone from strength to strength – always keeping the highest standards. Integrated viticulture has been practiced for many years now which has been adapted especially for the terroir. No herbicide or chemical fertilizer is used, instead, Christophe prefers to “stand back and listen to this terroir, only intervening when necessary or when the weather requires it, never systematically.” We still await the offer on allocations from Christophe, so please form an orderly queue - i.e. send requests and we will deal with them once we know what we have. This is one of the star domaines of the whole of Burgundy.
Domaine-Christophe-Perrot-Minot
2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Les Murgers des Cras Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Les Murgers des Cras Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

(this cuvée is composed from 20% Les Murgers, 20% Aux Cras and 60% Richemone). Earth, spice and floral-inflected red currant aromas give way to cool, intense and once again beautifully well-detailed(this cuvée is composed from 20% Les Murgers, 20% Aux Cras and 60% Richemone). Earth, spice and floral-inflected red currant aromas give way to cool, intense and once again beautifully well-detailed flavors that possess better volume if not refinement, all wrapped in a more complex and notably more structured finale. This is delicious and should be approachable after only 5-ish years of keeping. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2019)

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2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru La Riotte Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 MOREY SAINT DENIS Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru La Riotte Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

This has more edge and brood than the Nuits St Georges tasted just before it. A great, tightly-furled core of fruit, with a gently grip and a more bold texture. Firmer and less clearly fleshy, lessThis has more edge and brood than the Nuits St Georges tasted just before it. A great, tightly-furled core of fruit, with a gently grip and a more bold texture. Firmer and less clearly fleshy, less soft feel - this is ripe and yet feels very serious too. It may be less pretty, less flirty and charming - but there is good oomph and a long finish with growing bite, pull and energy. Impressive, Will need a moment. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Vignes Centenaires 1er Cru La Richemone Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Vignes Centenaires 1er Cru La Richemone Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

‘Vignes Centenaires’ this was known as the Cuvée Ultra until 2011. (But to avoid any confusion Christophe keeps the word Ultra on the back label). Wow. Straight out of the blocks this is like a‘Vignes Centenaires’ this was known as the Cuvée Ultra until 2011. (But to avoid any confusion Christophe keeps the word Ultra on the back label). Wow. Straight out of the blocks this is like a masterclass. Perfectly chiselled fruit. Black crisp berries and softer red fruit notes race across the palate. Lovely breadth. Effortlessly broad and sweeping but so light on its toes. The feel is aerial somehow, yet intense. Full of tension, the balance between ripeness and freshness. Between weight and lift. Really pretty juice, but finishes with more intent. More serious bite from the soft tannins and the lovely acidity. Really very wonderful. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 MAZOYÈRES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 MAZOYÈRES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

There is a dinstinct more muscular, more mineral sense immediately. Far less flashy and flirty than the Chapelle or the Charmes. The energy is exciting, the power impressive. A real heft in theThere is a dinstinct more muscular, more mineral sense immediately. Far less flashy and flirty than the Chapelle or the Charmes. The energy is exciting, the power impressive. A real heft in the middle of crisp, chalky minerality - well dressed in nice pert red fruit. not overdone. Brilliantly imposing and serious. Finishes with a good sensation of scratch and structure. Yes, top stuff, but will need time. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 CHAPELLE CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 CHAPELLE CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

After the Charmes there is more ripeness in this Chapelle, more svelte slick gloss to the feel. This is hyper polished. Richer, riper and then a dark note builds in the fruit. Moving to the blackerAfter the Charmes there is more ripeness in this Chapelle, more svelte slick gloss to the feel. This is hyper polished. Richer, riper and then a dark note builds in the fruit. Moving to the blacker spectrum with damson and blackberries here - but sexily ripe. Just a touch of firmness on the finish, some structure - but this is an intensely-laden, sleek wine of great joy. Drinking range: 2019 - 2028L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

Hello! This is immediately so inviting, such charm reels you in to the beautifully set fruit at the core here. It is broad and expansive. Lovely ripeness, but still some pep to the red berries. It isHello! This is immediately so inviting, such charm reels you in to the beautifully set fruit at the core here. It is broad and expansive. Lovely ripeness, but still some pep to the red berries. It is just so inviting. Really no hard edges and yet no excess. Sleek and polished but not flashy in anyway. at the finish more minerality peeks out, the super fine grip builds. Highest parcel of Charmes right next to Chambertin and this is where that more mineral, more grippy edge comes from. Brilliant. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

This is gorgeously succulent on the nose. It is elegant and juicy and floral on the attack. Intense and fresh in the middle - lovely depth with no over richness. Rippling bolt of satin. The finishThis is gorgeously succulent on the nose. It is elegant and juicy and floral on the attack. Intense and fresh in the middle - lovely depth with no over richness. Rippling bolt of satin. The finish is very persistent, delightfully floral and fresh. It has structure and grace. Rating: 19.85 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 CHAMBERTIN Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

Nose has a darker edge than the other Grand Crus here. There is a jolt of energy on the palate. Yes the fruit is ripe, but with such vigour and energy that it races along. Really lovely brightness toNose has a darker edge than the other Grand Crus here. There is a jolt of energy on the palate. Yes the fruit is ripe, but with such vigour and energy that it races along. Really lovely brightness to the plum and strawberry highlights, clean lines and such drive. This is poised and so well measured. Weight builds but is always without excess. Not glossy, not heavy - just spot on. Walking the tight-rope of impact and excess this nails it. Not wavering at any moment, this delivers with huge fanfare. The balance with minerality is tip top - nothing is out of kilter. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

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2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Beaux Monts Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 VOSNE ROMANÉE Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru Beaux Monts Christophe Perrot-Minot

This cask sample has a gentle whiff of reduction on the nose, which quickly passes and the delicate bouquet leads to a full palate. Loaded with juicy acidity that pumps through the nice, peppy redThis cask sample has a gentle whiff of reduction on the nose, which quickly passes and the delicate bouquet leads to a full palate. Loaded with juicy acidity that pumps through the nice, peppy red berries and good energetic middle of enticing richness. Strangely brilliant that balance of weight, silkiness and then the freshness. Clever stuff from Christophe, this almost sums up his 2017s that he says are unique with their high levels of freshness and yet ripeness. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

2017 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot

Crisp cut but good weight here too. Quite dark fruit profile but with some crunch and sophistication. Not flimsy though, this has good weight and nice impact for a Bourgogne. Bravo. Crisp cut but good weight here too. Quite dark fruit profile but with some crunch and sophistication. Not flimsy though, this has good weight and nice impact for a Bourgogne. Bravo. Drinking range: 2019 - 2024L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Domaine Dugat-Py's wines are far from shy and retiring, but they do require patience to show their best. Old vines, tiny yields, viticulture with minute and constant attention, all lead to a magnificent concentration and purity in the raw material. Without extracting harsh tannins, Loïc (who despite his youthful good-looks, has overseen the wine-making since 2012) gets an astonishing density into the wines, and they take on the high percentage of new oak quite casually. (The village wines get 55-65% new wood, while the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus are all aged in 100% new barrels.)

The wines are every bit as good as you'd expect from this domaine in 2017 and for once may not be as devilishly long-lived as usual. As Loïc said the wines have an openness and a more aerial feel this year - and are deeply charming for it. The season he says was unusual and with the vines recovering from the loss of so much fruit in 2016 to frost (almost 30%) they went in to overdrive producing lots of grapes in 2017. Taking counsel from his father and grandfather he resisted the urge for a bountiful harvest and spent August thinning out the crop with a thorough green harvest. 'No holiday for me' he said cheerfully - and kept smiling as he explained they dropped enough fruit to fill another 20 barrels - ouch! There were, said Loïc, some problems with 'blocage de maturité' where young vines really suffered in the 36/37-degree heat. The harvest was early - starting on the 2nd of September, they were among the first. Neither in 2017, nor in 2018, was there really anything to do on the sorting table. The understanding and skill from the three generations of Dugats was crucial in such fine results. When you taste these mesmerising wines, you realise that all the right decisions were made. A real highlight on our tour of the region. Dense and intense but with a lovely softness in 2017, truly extraordinary.

These wines are in high demand, but it is still well-worth making requests, especially if buying other wines. Likely to be released in March.

Domaine-Bernard-Dugat-Py
2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Coeur de Roy Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Coeur de Roy Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

75 year old vines are the average here. This has more breadth and density than the Vieilles Vignes. A really polished deep feel. Incredible intensity, but with no tightness. There is a joyous and75 year old vines are the average here. This has more breadth and density than the Vieilles Vignes. A really polished deep feel. Incredible intensity, but with no tightness. There is a joyous and open expression. Excellent black and velvety fruit pulp core, dotted with mulched red flesh and the odd stripe of darker berries in the middle. Pert strawberry and some softer red fruits too make up the svelte weight. There is super energy too and a saline mineral freshness that adds further bounce. A great freshness to this Pinot, so impressive. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Champeaux Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Champeaux Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Following the Petite Chapelle this is on a totally different spectrum. A wilder nose jumps out of the glass. Dark fruit and toast. Again more brood here, reminiscent of the Corbeaux. Darker with anFollowing the Petite Chapelle this is on a totally different spectrum. A wilder nose jumps out of the glass. Dark fruit and toast. Again more brood here, reminiscent of the Corbeaux. Darker with an exciting ‘sauvage’ feel; jagged rock and mineral. Black berries and some damson notes are more compacted by mineral push and some earth, hawthorn and leafy elements. A mineral power which is epic, but will need time to mellow. Really impressive stuff. Drinking range: 2023 - 2032L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

This is made up of 2/3 Charmes and 1/3 Mazoyeres Chambertin, but all of their vines here are on the same terroir. In fact they do have other Mazoyeres vines, on different terroir - which is madeThis is made up of 2/3 Charmes and 1/3 Mazoyeres Chambertin, but all of their vines here are on the same terroir. In fact they do have other Mazoyeres vines, on different terroir - which is made separately. Wow. This is so intense. Immediately the broad sweep of exciting dark fruit is uncompromising. This Charmes is no slouch, no soft supple cushion of charm - it is bright and driven and loaded with fruit. Peppy and then some mineral bite too. Really concentrated. Loïc harvested early, on the 3rd September and that makes it even more amazing that it has such intensity. A real joy. Charming, but in an electric way. Drinking range: 2022 - 2031L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Corbeaux Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Corbeaux Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

This vineyard is right next to Mazis Chambertin. Loïc has two parcels here, with vines planted up to 80 years ago. After the electric Fonteny, this is darker and denser. A sinewy, more old-schoolThis vineyard is right next to Mazis Chambertin. Loïc has two parcels here, with vines planted up to 80 years ago. After the electric Fonteny, this is darker and denser. A sinewy, more old-school feel, Loaded with darker, more black fruit and a granular grip. There is a lively acidity too and no fat at all. Good drive, good focus, but this is just a tad firmer and more brooding than the other wines here. Finishes with a beautiful, defined and fresh feel. Uplifting fruit, but impressive. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Perrières Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Perrières Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Initial impression is sweet vanilla and spice from the oak. Really spicy fruit too. The oak is covering the fruit at the moment but it’s there at the core and opens up to a gently floral character.Initial impression is sweet vanilla and spice from the oak. Really spicy fruit too. The oak is covering the fruit at the moment but it’s there at the core and opens up to a gently floral character. Chewy, firm tannins but not angular. Big and rich. Freshness on the finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2037 Rating: 16.5++ Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Dec 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Fonteny Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Fonteny Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Loic has used between 30% and 50% whole bunch fermentation with all of his 1er Cru wines this year. The Dugat's 1er Cru Fonteny vines are more than 60 years old. This is lovely in the mouth. DarkLoic has used between 30% and 50% whole bunch fermentation with all of his 1er Cru wines this year. The Dugat's 1er Cru Fonteny vines are more than 60 years old. This is lovely in the mouth. Dark fruit expression, but it stays quite taut and mineral. The intense juice really penetrates every corner with a good, bright, pulsing fruit hit. There is fantastic pep and drive. Intense in its blackness. A luxurious feel here great weight and svelte fruit but that buzzing energy is awesome. Really this is an incredibly attractive and engaging wine, 'Almost on rock', says Loïc, 'very straight'. Drinking range: 2021 - 2030L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2017 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

2017 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

100% Whole Bunch. They have 3 parcels here, the most important of which is more than 90 years old - and this makes up over half of the final blend, while the others are 75 and 50+. So pure. So100% Whole Bunch. They have 3 parcels here, the most important of which is more than 90 years old - and this makes up over half of the final blend, while the others are 75 and 50+. So pure. So intense though. It is light on its feet but the density is extraordinary, the concentration off the charts. And yet still a litheness and a power. It drives on, laden with dark red fruits, some forest bramble and violets but green leaf too and some tobacco. Really intense, drier feel than the Mazoyeres. Complex and firm. Incredible mass and mineral energy - mega wine. This will need time. Drinking range: 2024 - 2040L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 3

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Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2017 CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

Just when you think the Dugat-Py range can't get any better, you have a taste of this mind-blowing Chambertin, which gets my vote as the red wine of the vintage. Focussed, floral and beguiling, itJust when you think the Dugat-Py range can't get any better, you have a taste of this mind-blowing Chambertin, which gets my vote as the red wine of the vintage. Focussed, floral and beguiling, it has balletic poise and supple, fine-grained tannins, with notes of rose petal, wild strawberry and tangerine accompanied by incredible concentration and palate length from 90-year-old vines. Drinking range: 2027 - 2035 Rating: 99-99 Tim Atkin MW - Decanter(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, wood case of 1

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Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2017 MAZOYÈRES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py

After the Charmes Chambertin, this is more serious. Less flash and flourish, but at its heart is some beautifully focused, darker fruit. More structured, spicier, and still richly velvety, even withAfter the Charmes Chambertin, this is more serious. Less flash and flourish, but at its heart is some beautifully focused, darker fruit. More structured, spicier, and still richly velvety, even with just a hint of fruit sweetness. The minerality builds and there is a dusty scrape of tannin. More direct - more restrained for now. A wilder exrpression and more about structural force, impressive length - rather wonderful. Drinking range: 2024 - 2035L&S(Nov 2018)

75cl bottles, case of 3

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