Chalonnais

Marie Jacqueson reported being 35% down in white and 40-45% down in red in 2020, A similar story we heard in all the cellars we visited. As a one off this would not be crippling - but it really has been a cruel run here. After dismally-sized harvests since the frost-affected 2016 all the way through to the brutally short 2021 crop (with just the healthy 2018 vintage being an anomaly). This is not a happy time for these vignerons. and as a result we have very little wine available this year. On the bright side for consumers, there is, as usual, great quality and great value in these wines. Both François Lumpp and François Raquillet have had qualitatively superb vintages, it is well worth seeking out these superstar wines. The Dureuil-Janthial wines will not be bottled until Feb-March and will not be released for sale until the end of the year at the earliest.


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Domaine Ninot

Domaine Ninot has 13 hectares split 50/50 between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Rully and Rully 1er Cru in white and red, and 2 hectares of red Mercurey. They have been working organically since 2017, and the first vintage to be certified organic is 2020.

The domaine is run by Erell, who is in charge of the cellar and the commercial side, and her brother Flavien in the vineyard. The family has had roots in the region since the 14th century, and Erell and Flavien's grandfather was one of the leaders of the appellation of Rully when it was established in 1939. However he died when their father Pierre-Marie was only 14, and the domaine, split between five children, had to be sold. Pierre-Marie kept his part of the inheritance, 5 hectares of vines, and began again, gradually adding to the holdings by fermages and purchases. Once Erell had completed her studies in oenology and commerce, and had gained experience by working abroad, he handed over the keys to the cellar.

2020 RULLY ROUGE La Barre Domaine Ninot

2020 RULLY ROUGE La Barre Domaine Ninot

Dark colour and rich dense fruit, but saline and racy too - terrific juice and a zingy finish.Dark colour and rich dense fruit, but saline and racy too - terrific juice and a zingy finish.L&S (Nov 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2020 RULLY ROUGE Chaponnières Domaine Ninot

2020 RULLY ROUGE Chaponnières Domaine Ninot

Richer yet than the La Barre, there's an almost chocolatey gourmandise about the fruit. Very impressive and will be hard to resist right out of the blocks.Richer yet than the La Barre, there's an almost chocolatey gourmandise about the fruit. Very impressive and will be hard to resist right out of the blocks.L&S (Nov 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2020 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Ninot

2020 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine Ninot

Very expressive, a lovely translucent style, fresh and slightly saline, it's relaxed and pure with juicy fruit density and a supple velvety texture.Very expressive, a lovely translucent style, fresh and slightly saline, it's relaxed and pure with juicy fruit density and a supple velvety texture. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028L&S (Nov 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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Domaine François Raquillet

François took over the running of this estate from his father, Jean, in 1990, with his wife Emmanuelle. Records show that the same family have made wine in Mercurey since the 1600s, and Francois is the eleventh generation. His daughter Jeanne is also now heavily involved, her passion is really viticulture - so she works mostly in the vineyards for now but will be the 12th generation at the helm of this stellar property.

With eleven hectares under vine, François has substantially reduced yields, introduced higher quality oak barrels (up to 50% new wood for the Premiers Crus) and significantly increased the quality of wines made at this domaine. François explains he tries to avoid over-extraction at all costs - his one aim is to deliver the beautifully pure fruit profile he gets out of the old vines - this he does with great success. It is a wonderfully transparent style - combined with good mid-palate weight.

It is a sad story once again in this corner of the Chalonnais with a terrible run of vintages in terms of yield continuing. From the highs of 2018 where they made an average of 42hl/ha across the domaine, to 2019 when the yield was down to only 32hl/ha, followed by this year's slim 35hl/ha which will be followed by the pitiful 23hl/ha in 2021. This is not really enough for the family, given the very reasonable pricing of this part of the world. Great value across the range. Which goes some way to explain his recent acquisition of a parcel in Pommard perhaps.

2020 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine François Raquillet

2020 BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir Domaine François Raquillet

This has that textbook Pinot Noir nose of red berries and black pepper. Not overly ripe but bright & joyous. A little bit of grip on the palate adds a bit more seriousness. Nice acidity. Overall aThis has that textbook Pinot Noir nose of red berries and black pepper. Not overly ripe but bright & joyous. A little bit of grip on the palate adds a bit more seriousness. Nice acidity. Overall a very good Bourgogne Rouge, proper Pinot Noir. Drinking range: 2021 - 2023L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2020 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine François Raquillet

2020 MERCUREY Vieilles Vignes Domaine François Raquillet

Grapes from three different parcels. Average of 60yo vines. Dark & red berry fruits on the nose with a hint of violet. Ripe and quite rich. Sweet spice. Very good acidity. Very fresh finish. NiceGrapes from three different parcels. Average of 60yo vines. Dark & red berry fruits on the nose with a hint of violet. Ripe and quite rich. Sweet spice. Very good acidity. Very fresh finish. Nice grip to the tannins. This should represent very good value. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 12

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2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Vasées Domaine François Raquillet

2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Vasées Domaine François Raquillet

Comes across more elegant & gentler on the nose than the VV. Again, there are quite grippy tannins but it's nicely balanced with good acidity. Darker fruits again, violets & sweet spice. AnotherComes across more elegant & gentler on the nose than the VV. Again, there are quite grippy tannins but it's nicely balanced with good acidity. Darker fruits again, violets & sweet spice. Another cracking Mercurey from François. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Veleys Domaine François Raquillet

2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Veleys Domaine François Raquillet

Good waft of vanilla on the nose at the moment but there is dark berry fruit as well. Tannins are quite firm but there’s a lovely acidity that balances it out nicely. Of the wines tasted here, theGood waft of vanilla on the nose at the moment but there is dark berry fruit as well. Tannins are quite firm but there’s a lovely acidity that balances it out nicely. Of the wines tasted here, the Veleys has the most grunt. As ever this seems like it needs longer in the cellar to come around and it certainly has lots of potential. With just 7 barrels of Veleys this year Francois has been ageing it in 3 new oak barrels (so it is just over 40% New Oak in 2020) the remaining 4 barrels are 2 one-year-old and 2 two-year-old. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine François Raquillet

2020 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine François Raquillet

Not tasted as it was being racked on the day of our visit. On the basis of the other wines this year - we look forward to tasting this in bottle very much.Not tasted as it was being racked on the day of our visit. On the basis of the other wines this year - we look forward to tasting this in bottle very much.L&S (Nov 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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Domaine François Lumpp

François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by two of their children, Pierre and Anne-Cécile.

François is a passionate viticulturalist and places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results (often at the expense of yield).

2019 was a very small harvest here, with especially little white. 2020 thankfully was an excellent year for whites, but the red harvest was small - and the sombre tale continues with the atrocious 2021 vintage now in the cellar. It is no surprise that Tim Atkin described François Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' All the Lumpp wines offer great value for money - year after year.

As she took us through the wines this year, Anne-Cécile explained 2020 was hot and dry - but really good for Chardonnay. Funnily enough Chardonnay vines channelled all their energy to the grapes and not the leaves - for Pinot it was somewhat the opposite - here the leaves were great but grapes less pristine and in much smaller volumes! They started picking on the 20th August.

Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2020 GIVRY 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

2020 GIVRY 1er Cru Crausot Domaine François Lumpp

70% new oak. Still in tank when tasted. Limestone-heavy soils. Hottest of all the plots. Completely south facing. The ripeness of the vintage is evident immediately with a real depth of fruit on the70% new oak. Still in tank when tasted. Limestone-heavy soils. Hottest of all the plots. Completely south facing. The ripeness of the vintage is evident immediately with a real depth of fruit on the nose, both red & dark berries. But, there is restraint. Black pepper, wild strawberry, black cherry. Alcohol is quite chunky for this estate but overall it’s very well balanced. Tannins are ripe and grippy. Lovely acidity. Drinking range: 2024 - 2033L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2020 GIVRY 1er Cru Clos Jus Domaine François Lumpp

2020 GIVRY 1er Cru Clos Jus Domaine François Lumpp

70% new oak. Still in tank when tasted. The soils here are high in iron. Slightly more restrained on the nose but the palate is far more concentrated and intense. Alcohol is more integrated. Bit70% new oak. Still in tank when tasted. The soils here are high in iron. Slightly more restrained on the nose but the palate is far more concentrated and intense. Alcohol is more integrated. Bit more sweet spice. Much grippier tannins but lovely acidity. Long finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2020 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

2020 GIVRY 1er Cru à Vigne Rouge Domaine François Lumpp

70% new oak. This year malo has taken much longer than usual - so the Vignes Rouges is spending 18 months in barrel, rather than their traditional 12 months. Still in barrel when tasted. Opaque70% new oak. This year malo has taken much longer than usual - so the Vignes Rouges is spending 18 months in barrel, rather than their traditional 12 months. Still in barrel when tasted. Opaque purple. Such a lovely colour. More floral on the nose with notes of violet and those textbook darker fruits. Lovely sweetness to the plummy fruit, but, yet again, not overripe. Lots of sweet spice, dark cherry, blackberry. Tannins are not as grippy as Clos Jus. Very youthful but delicious. Well worth seeking out. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033L&S (Dec 2021)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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