{"id":26763,"date":"2017-04-24T12:47:12","date_gmt":"2017-04-24T11:47:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/?p=26763"},"modified":"2017-04-25T13:15:42","modified_gmt":"2017-04-25T12:15:42","slug":"2016-bordeaux-vintage-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/2017\/04\/2016-bordeaux-vintage-style\/","title":{"rendered":"2016 Bordeaux: Vintage Style &#8211; what the wines are like and why"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Classicism is the name of the day in 2016, but it is certainly a very polished classicism. A return to wines mostly in the 13-13.5% level, so more \u2018Englishman\u2019s claret\u2019 than some recent top vintages.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26767\" class=\"wp-image-26767 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/IMG_2427.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"302\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26767\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fran\u00e7ois Mitjavile of Tertre R\u00f4teboeuf<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Fran\u00e7ois Mitjavile of Tertre R\u00f4teboeuf<\/strong> was as interesting as ever: \u201cIt was a general success, with a very homogenous character. All the grape varieties could be picked in perfect condition and ripeness. The rain in September saved the vines which had begun to work very slowly in the heat so as not to get exhausted. But the idea that <em>Ao\u00fbt fait le mo\u00fbt<\/em> (\u2018August makes the must\u2019) is now dead. It used to be that the harvest was either early and good, or late and \u2018<em>petit<\/em>\u2019. This is not true now \u2013 2000, 2005, 2010, 2015 and 2016 are sunny summers but which then extend into slow maturation and long ripening. September and October were moderate \u2013 sun by day and nights that were cool. It\u2019s rich but it\u2019s aerial because of the late cool harvest: a vintage of fresh opulence.\u201d He does not make a second wine. The <strong>Domaine des Cambes<\/strong> comes from different plots \u2013 vines on the foot of the slopes of <strong>Roc des Cambes<\/strong>. At Tertre R\u00f4teboeuf, he makes just one wine \u00ab\u00a0<em>c\u2019est au coeur de la po\u00e9sie du vin qu\u2019on fait des mill\u00e9simes purs<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, (\u201cit\u2019s at the heart of the poetry of wine that one makes pure vintages\u201d i.e. the wine reflects the whole production of the whole vineyard in each year) and \u201cthe authenticity of a wine from a vineyard and a year is a great civilisation, like a classical music\u201d. He also mentioned that the 2016s have some of the \u00ab\u00a0<em>grace aromatique<\/em> \u00bb of 2006, and we were lucky enough to taste a 2006 later at Conseillante which was wonderful, so maybe this is a good comparison on the right bank.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-26800\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Pierre-Taix-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"325\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26800\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pierre Ta\u00efx of La Mauriane<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Pierre Ta\u00efx of La Mauriane<\/strong> described the fruit as \u2018fragile\u2019, and said that overall the whites are not good this year \u2013 aromatic but \u2018pateux\u2019 (pasty, heavy) \u2013 the September rain came too late for them. It was important to pick early enough to retain the brighter fruit elements \u2013 just because you could wait longer did not mean you should \u2013 was a sentiment we heard often. \u201cFor me the slight vegetal taste is an integral part of Bordeaux \u2013 it reminds one that Bordeaux is after all a <em>terroir Atlantique<\/em>\u201d. He went on to gently rail against the practice of thermovinification, a technique developed in the Languedoc in which the must is heated to 80C for a short period. \u201c40% of Bordeaux (ie straight ac Bordeaux) is made this way \u2013 lots of colour and you burn off any pyrazines (the elements which give leafy and green aromas) \u2013 you can bottle it after seven months but two years later it is dead. Some top growths use this on the Cabernet to get rid of the pyrazines.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26769\" class=\"wp-image-26769 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/The-line-up-at-\u00c9glise-Clinet.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"286\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26769\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The line-up at \u00c9glise Clinet<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Denis Durantou of l\u2019\u00c9glise Clinet<\/strong> said that 2016s are \u2018wines to drink, not to taste\u2019 \u2013 meaning, we took it, that they are less \u2018impressive\u2019 than a vintage with more amplitude like 2010, but that they are likely to be brilliant to drink, and we\u2019d concur \u2013 most enjoyable at their maturity, at table, with food.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26770\" class=\"wp-image-26770 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Denis-Durantou.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"361\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26770\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Denis Durantou of \u00c9glise Clinet<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Jacques Thienpont<\/strong>, asked his opinion of the vintage, said \u201cOh, we will sell it\u201d. Not much doubt about that then.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26771\" class=\"wp-image-26771 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Jacques-Thienpont.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"772\" height=\"268\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26771\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jacques Thienpont with samples of l&#8217;If and Le Pin &#8211; and his Flemish tapestry &#8216;won&#8217; at auction.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Alexandre Thienpont of Vieux Ch\u00e2teau Certan<\/strong> said that the young vines really suffered from the drought: \u201cthe violent contrasts of the growing season really exaggerate the terroir effect. 2016 really shows the style of each terroir\u201d.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Jean-Pascal Vazart at L\u2019\u00c9vangile<\/strong> described it as a very \u00ab\u00a0sympathique \u00bb vintage, with extremely polished tannins, but which the acidity was blocking a bit \u2013 \u201cthere\u2019s an extreme power contained in the wines, it\u2019s the \u00e9levage which will reveal it\u201d.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26772\" class=\"wp-image-26772 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Jean-Pascal-Vazart.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"313\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26772\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jean-Pascal Vazart at L&#8217;\u00c9vangile<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Florence Cathiard at Smith Haut Lafitte<\/strong> said it really was a year for Cabernet (again this was echoed elsewhere, but obviously less on the right bank). \u201cThe Merlots are at the same level as 2015, but the Cabernets are better\u201d. She explained how their growing and vinifications are always evolving \u2013 \u2018bio-precision\u2019 in the vineyard, less sulphur in the winery. They\u2019ve always had their own cooperage, but now also have their own vine-grafting operation, on an island in the Garonne, to keep it away from pests. The chef de culture, Fabien Teitgen, is known locally as \u2018the ghost\u2019 as he patrols the vineyard on a Segway, surveying for exactly what treatments may be required, and where.<\/p>\n<p>At <strong>Haut Bailly<\/strong> they were keen to say that in the end 2016 is in the average of total rainfall \u2013 it just fell very irregularly. They likened 2015 to 2009 \u2013 very \u2018flatteur\u2019 (which does not quite translate to \u2018flattering\u2019, but easy, approachable, lush etc.), while 2016 is more like 2010 \u2013 all about purity and length. While this is sort of true it\u2019s not quite right either, as the 2016s have less alcohol and sheer mass than 2010s.<\/p>\n<p>At <strong>Carmes Haut Brion, Guillaume Pouthier<\/strong> talked about the floral fruit in the Carmes, \u201ciris, peony, violet\u201d, before going on to say that there is huge concentration in the wine this year, but that it is hidden by the glossy fat \u2013 but that he thinks it will drink from ten to fifty years from now. We\u2019ve been a little more conservative with our longevity estimates.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine\/2016-CHATEAU-LES-CARMES-HAUT-BRION-Cru-Classe-Pessac-Leognan-26936-00.html?category=122\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26793\" class=\"wp-image-26793 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Guillaume-Pouthiers-doughnut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"221\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-26793\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guillaume Pouthier&#8217;s doughnut &#8211; click to find out more<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Many wines have very high IPT (<em>indexe de polyphenoles et tannins<\/em>) levels, often similar to, or in the case of <strong>Lynch Bages<\/strong>\u00a0for example, higher than, those reported in 2009 and 2010. Smith Haut Lafitte would not give us the IPT level saying it was not a good measure as it depends on where you base the index, but that Smith has 5 grams per litre of polyphenols \u2013 we are not sure just how high this is in relative terms, but they obviously felt it was high. IPT levels alone are not a determinant of quality, but they are an indicator \u2013 if a wine can have as easy a flow and feel of freshness and have these levels of dry extract, it certainly implies that they are very beautifully balanced.<\/p>\n<p>At <strong>Cos d\u2019Estournel, Aymeric de la Gironde<\/strong> told us 2016 is a \u201cvery civilised vintage. Love the result, but we went through moments that challenged our hearts and our blood pressure. The challenge was not to over-react. Some people did, with extra de-leafing in June \u2013 but that could have been disastrous after. A vintage for wines that express truly where they are from.\u201d The wines (Goul\u00e9e, Pagodes and Cos) are about 13% &#8211; \u201csomething we are working towards \u2013 I like the balance, enjoyable now and perhaps for the next 20 years.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>At <strong>Ducru Beaucaillou<\/strong> they wanted to stress how long it had been between flower and harvest. Normally reckoned to be about 100 days as a rule of thumb, 2016 was 125 days. This long \u2018hang-time\u2019 &#8211; slow maturation &#8211; is considered good for quality if matched to a harvest brought in in optimal condition, as was the case for 2016.<\/p>\n<p>In Margaux there were some strikingly successful wines with one thing in common \u2013 <strong>Palmer, Durfort Vivens and Ferri\u00e8re<\/strong> all lost crop to mildew in June during the flowering as they all practice biodynamic viticulture and were only able to treat with \u2018<em>boullie bordelaise<\/em>\u2019 \u2013 copper sulphate. Was this loss of crop beneficial in the end, as it is clear some of their neighbours in classic viticulture were struggling to ripen the full weight of the crop? Palmer\u2019s Petit Verdot was cropped at three bunches per vine, a pitiful 12-15 hectolitres per hectare.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/2016-BORDEAUX-PRIMEURS-115-02.html\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-26713 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/Browse-here-large-button.png\" alt=\"Browse 2016 Bordeaux En Primeur\" width=\"150\" height=\"50\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Classicism is the name of the day in 2016, but it is certainly a very polished classicism. A return to wines mostly in the 13-13.5% level, so more \u2018Englishman\u2019s claret\u2019 than some recent top vintages.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":26790,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[983],"tags":[984],"class_list":["post-26763","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2016-bordeaux","tag-2016-bordeaux"],"contentshake_article_id":"","yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>2016 Bordeaux: Vintage Style - what the wines are like and why<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Classicism is the name of the day in 2016. 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A return to wines mostly in the 13-13.5% level, so more \u2018Englishman\u2019s claret\u2019 than some recent top vintages.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/2017\/04\/2016-bordeaux-vintage-style\/","og_locale":"en_GB","og_type":"article","og_title":"2016 Bordeaux: Vintage Style - what the wines are like and why","og_description":"Classicism is the name of the day in 2016. 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