{"id":34524,"date":"2022-05-11T09:58:54","date_gmt":"2022-05-11T08:58:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/?p=34524"},"modified":"2022-05-20T11:42:30","modified_gmt":"2022-05-20T10:42:30","slug":"2021-bordeaux-en-primeur-saint-estephe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/2022\/05\/2021-bordeaux-en-primeur-saint-estephe\/","title":{"rendered":"2021 Bordeaux En Primeur | Saint-Est\u00e8phe"},"content":{"rendered":"

Saint-Est\u00e8phe certainly felt like the most far flung, northerly part of the M\u00e9doc when we arrived, driving down the dip from Lafite and up to Cos d\u2019Estournel as the sky darkened and rain began to threaten. An easy way to brighten up any day, is to walk through their ornamental garden, once you\u2019ve squeezed your car through their very tight gate, into their tiny car park. We watched a group of tourists knock out one of the standing stones with the gate sensor on while we were there. Doubtless whenever the price of the wine goes up, it is simply to compensate for this). It\u2019s as spectacular as it is bombastic \u2013 passing hedges sculpted into elephants next to the East Asian Pagoda like Ch\u00e2teau.<\/p>\n

\"Cos<\/p>\n

Ch\u00e2teau Cos d’Estournel<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Inside, it\u2019s more gentleman\u2019s club or museum. Full of wingbacks, dark wood and exotic looking ornaments. Even the barrel cellar has an Asian bent, with a glass bridge spanning its length which looks suspiciously Squid Games-esque\u2026
\nYou\u2019d expect the red from Cos, perhaps the winery best positioned to lay claim to being the \u2018first growth\u2019 of Saint-Est\u00e8phe, to be good. It was the white, however, which really stole the show. It was as immensely structured as it was intense and we\u2019ve no doubt will be an enormous reward for anyone willing to patiently sit on it for a decade, even the Pagodes de Cos Blanc was quite something \u2013 richer and more forward, but equally delicious.\"Cos<\/p>\n

Ch\u00e2teau Montrose<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Onward a short distance (and thankfully into a much more ample car park) to the other Ch\u00e2teau which could claim to be the first growth of the region, Montrose. Not quite as bombastic as Cos, Montrose is still just a remarkable place to visit \u2013 it\u2019s so completely pristine, you feel more like you\u2019re in a Hollywood studio set, expecting a golf buggy to pop out at any moment with a famous director shouting from it.<\/p>\n

\"Montrose\"<\/h4>\n

Ch\u00e2teau Calon-S\u00e9gur<\/strong><\/h4>\n

\"CalonThe 2021 was a triumph. A very serious bottling, their first in organic conversion and, as William Kelly puts it, \u2018a brilliant achievement\u2026 reminiscent of a purer, more precise, modern-day version of the estate\u2019s 1996<\/em>\u2019. You\u2019ll need some serious patience if you put this in your cellar, but it\u2019ll be worth it.
\nOur third and final stop in Saint-Est\u00e8phe was Calon S\u00e9gur. We talk a fair bit about changes being made to Ch\u00e2teaux in Bordeaux. More and more are converting to or, have converted to organics. Lots of cover crops are being tested, along with lighter tilling to promote a healthy microbiome and greater diversity of insect life. Parcel by parcel vinification is slowly becoming the norm amongst the quality conscious Ch\u00e2teaux and use of multiple different fermenting vessels, like amphorae, has been on the rise for a while.<\/p>\n

Calon S\u00e9gur, however, have deployed something which we think is completely new. Estate director, Vincent Millet, who previously spent a number of years at Ch\u00e2teau Margaux and has a PhD in wine microbiology, has instituted \u2018geo referencing\u2019 for each individual vine in Calon\u2019s 55-hectare clos. This means that every vine is geo tagged, with a reference point to establish which treatments it had undergone and what changes need to be adopted for optimal health. It\u2019s the next advancement in precision viticulture and will no doubt push this already overachieving estate even further ahead.
\nThe 2021 was a reference point for Calon and will easily compete with their top back vintages.
\nDespite just visiting three actual Ch\u00e2teaux in Saint-Est\u00e8phe this time, it\u2019s worth noting that we tasted many others while we were in the region. Memorably, Lilian Ladouys at Pedesclaux and Ormes de Pez at Lynch Bages, both of which were every bit as good as usual and still pushing the limits of great value in Bordeaux.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

\"2021<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Saint-Est\u00e8phe certainly felt like the most far flung, northerly part of the M\u00e9doc when we arrived, driving down the dip from Lafite and up to Cos d\u2019Estournel as the sky darkened and rain began to threaten. An easy way to brighten up any day, is to walk through their ornamental garden, once you\u2019ve squeezed your […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":32,"featured_media":34530,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1465,1],"tags":[1444,797],"class_list":["post-34524","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2021-bordeaux-en-primeur","category-ls-post","tag-2021-bordeaux","tag-saint-estephe"],"contentshake_article_id":"","yoast_head":"\n2021 Bordeaux En Primeur | Saint-Est\u00e8phe<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Saint-Est\u00e8phe certainly felt like the most far flung, northerly part of the M\u00e9doc when we arrived, driving down the dip from Lafite and up to Cos\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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