{"id":36791,"date":"2026-07-31T12:18:25","date_gmt":"2026-07-31T11:18:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/?p=36791"},"modified":"2026-07-31T12:18:25","modified_gmt":"2026-07-31T11:18:25","slug":"when-the-hills-burn-who-guards-the-vine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/2026\/07\/when-the-hills-burn-who-guards-the-vine\/","title":{"rendered":"When the Hills Burn, Who Guards the Vine?"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"model-response-message-contentr_a149c8a7a7a8e0dd\" class=\"markdown markdown-main-panel enable-luminous-fast-follows enable-updated-hr-color md-content tutor-markdown-rendering\" dir=\"ltr\" aria-busy=\"false\" aria-live=\"polite\">\n<p data-path-to-node=\"1\">As I write this in late July 2026, the European horizon is looking rather smoky. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bbc.co.uk\/news\/articles\/c5yd8gly1ydo\">Wildfires have swept across Spain and France<\/a>, burning hundreds of thousands of hectares. We&#8217;ve even seen smoke drifting ominously over the limestone slopes of Burgundy&#8217;s C\u00f4te-d&#8217;Or. It is a stark, inescapable reminder that the climate is changing, and the wine map is shifting right along with it.<\/p>\n<p id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-141\" data-path-to-node=\"2\"><span data-path-to-node=\"2,0\">Naturally, this has prompted a frantic rush of corporate greenwashing across the industry, with meaningless eco-badges suddenly appearing on back labels overnight<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"2,2\">. But for the proper artisan winemakers, the men and women with actual dirt under their fingernails, sustainability is not a marketing exercise<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"2,4\">. It is a matter of sheer survival and integrity<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"2,6\">. By throwing out the synthetic chemicals and embracing regenerative, biological farming, these vanguard estates are building resilient, living soils to combat the heat. Let\u2019s take a stroll through the vineyards of a few such stalwarts who are fighting on the climate frontline.<\/span><\/p>\n<h2 data-path-to-node=\"2\">Meet the winemakers<\/h2>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-142\" data-path-to-node=\"3\"><span data-path-to-node=\"3,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Castagnoli-2465-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"3,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Castagnoli<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"3\"><span data-path-to-node=\"3,0\">Up in the dizzying heights of Chianti Classico, the Schefernacker family farms narrow, dry-stone terraces<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"3,2\">. By strictly adhering to organic principles, they force their Sangiovese roots incredibly deep into the friable <i data-path-to-node=\"3,2\" data-index-in-node=\"113\">galestro<\/i> bedrock. When the summer heat causes lesser, chemically-fed vines to simply shut down, Castagnoli\u2019s vines are able to find vital moisture hidden deep underground<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"3,4\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-143\" data-path-to-node=\"4\"><span data-path-to-node=\"4,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Domaine-Marcel-Deiss-349-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"4,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Domaine Marcel Deiss<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"4\"><span data-path-to-node=\"4,0\">Over in Alsace, Mathieu Deiss continues his father&#8217;s slightly controversial but entirely brilliant practice of <i data-path-to-node=\"4,0\" data-index-in-node=\"132\">complantation. G<\/i>rowing Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer all jumbled together in a single field blend<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"4,2\">. This creates a self-regulating ecosystem<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"4,4\">. If a scorching vintage causes one grape variety to struggle, another naturally thrives, providing a brilliant, old-school hedge against climate volatility<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"4,6\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-26247 size-full\" title=\"Marcel Deiss in his vineyard\" src=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/Deiss-web.jpg\" alt=\"Marcel Deiss in his vineyard\" width=\"800\" height=\"420\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-144\" data-path-to-node=\"5\"><span data-path-to-node=\"5,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Champagne-Louis-Roederer-545-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"5,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Champagne Louis Roederer<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"5\"><span data-path-to-node=\"5,0\">One might expect a historic Grande Marque to rest on its laurels, but Roederer actually farms 250 hectares of their own vineyards organically and biodynamically<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"5,2\">. They use mechanical ploughing and cover crops to encourage deep root systems. This equips <\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"5,2\">the vines to handle extreme heat and hydric stress<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"5,4\">. They have even scrapped their traditional non-vintage blend for the &#8216;Collection&#8217; series, frankly admitting that climate change has made static, replicable house styles entirely obsolete<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"5,6\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"5\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-33548 size-full\" title=\"The vineyards of Louis Roederer\" src=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/roederer-vineyard.jpg\" alt=\"Roederer vineyard\" width=\"600\" height=\"275\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/roederer-vineyard.jpg?format=webp&amp;quality=95&amp;bg=ffffff 600w, https:\/\/blog-2207a.kxcdn.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/roederer-vineyard-300x138.jpg?format=webp&amp;quality=95&amp;bg=ffffff 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-145\" data-path-to-node=\"6\"><span data-path-to-node=\"6,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Bodega-Chacra-1318-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"6,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Bodega Chacra<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"6\"><span data-path-to-node=\"6,0\">Down in Patagonia, Bodega Chacra stands firmly on our artisan frontline of climate champions<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"6,2\">. Producing outstanding, energetic Pinot Noir, such as their &#8217;55&#8217; and Barda cuv\u00e9es, they are living proof that unapologetic luxury and zero ecological guilt can sit quite happily in the exact same glass<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"6,4\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"6\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-9749 size-full\" title=\"Bodegas Chacra - Patagonia\" src=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/10\/Bodegas-Chacra-Patagonia.jpg\" alt=\"Bodegas Chacra - Patagonia\" width=\"751\" height=\"375\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-146\" data-path-to-node=\"7\"><span data-path-to-node=\"7,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Poggerino-603-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"7,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Poggerino<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"7\"><span data-path-to-node=\"7,0\">Returning to Chianti Classico, we find Piero Lanza, a winemaker who purportedly knows all of his vines by name<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"7,2\">. He uses strict biodynamic preparations like horn manure and horn silica to foster a hyper-resilient vineyard ecosystem<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"7,4\">. This complex biological web serves as a brilliant buffer, protecting his Sangiovese against the increasingly erratic droughts and heatwaves plaguing central Italy<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"7,6\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"7\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-25492 size-full\" title=\"Poggerino-Chianti-Tuscany\" src=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/Poggerino-Chianti-Tuscany.jpg\" alt=\"Poggerino-Chianti-Tuscany\" width=\"700\" height=\"394\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-147\" data-path-to-node=\"8\"><span data-path-to-node=\"8,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Domaine-de-la-Mordoree-222-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"8,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Domaine de la Mordor\u00e9e<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"8\"><span data-path-to-node=\"8,0\">In the Southern Rh\u00f4ne, the summer heat can be absolutely punishing. Yet, Domaine de la Mordor\u00e9e relies on biodynamic farming in a valley continuously swept by the Mistral wind<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"8,2\">. This combination of living soil and natural ventilation yields reds of astonishing freshness, completely defying the baking temperatures<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"8,4\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"8\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-14367 size-full\" title=\"Domaine de La Mordoree - Vignes\" src=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Domaine-de-La-Mordoree-Vignes.jpg\" alt=\"Domaine de La Mordoree -Vignes\" width=\"800\" height=\"267\" \/><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-148\" data-path-to-node=\"9\"><span data-path-to-node=\"9,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Domaine-Yannick-Amirault-420-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"9,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Domaine Yannick Amirault<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"9\"><span data-path-to-node=\"9,0\">Yannick Amirault was a rebel long before it was fashionable. Back in 1983, he completely ceased using synthetic fertilisers on his Bourgueil vineyards, opting instead to interplant grasses to naturally manage the soil<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"9,2\">. Today, his son Beno\u00eet helps run this certified organic estate by the lunar calendar<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"9,4\">. Their early defiance of post-war chemical farming has left them with incredibly resilient soils, ensuring their Cabernet Franc retains its legendary purity even in the warmest years<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"9,6\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"p-rc_10fb3ac495ed216e-149\" data-path-to-node=\"10\"><span data-path-to-node=\"10,0\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine-producer\/Chateau-de-Plaisance-2501-04.html\"><b data-path-to-node=\"10,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Ch\u00e2teau de Plaisance<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/h3>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"10\"><span data-path-to-node=\"10,0\">Finally, in the Anjou Noir, Vanessa Cherruau is doing marvelous things with dry Chenin Blanc<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"10,2\">. She has introduced extensive agroforestry protocols directly into her biodynamic vineyards<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"10,4\">. By fostering a complex, polycultural ecosystem, she increases plant diversity and soil health, giving her vines a genuine fighting chance against shifting weather patterns<\/span><span data-path-to-node=\"10,6\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"12\">It is a rather grim business watching the hills and forests burn, but the resilience of these growers offers a genuine bright spot. They deserve our attention, and quite frankly, they deserve a place on your dining table.<\/p>\n<h2 data-path-to-node=\"12\">How can you support them?<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"12\">If you&#8217;d like to support the resistance, we\u2019ve put together a rather splendid 12-bottle <a href=\"https:\/\/www.leaandsandeman.co.uk\/wine\/ECO-WARRIORS-MIXED-CASE-107280-00.html?pack=59586\"><strong>Eco-Warriors&#8217; mixed case<\/strong>.<\/a> It&#8217;s a complete, guilt-free tasting tour of the world\u2019s most resilient vines, ready to pour this weekend.<\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"12\">Do bear in mind that any order over \u00a3150 qualifies for free nationwide delivery. Pop a case in your basket, pull a cork, and raise a glass to the folks keeping the vines alive.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As I write this in late July 2026, the European horizon is looking rather smoky. Wildfires have swept across Spain and France, burning hundreds of thousands of hectares. We&#8217;ve even seen smoke drifting ominously over the limestone slopes of Burgundy&#8217;s C\u00f4te-d&#8217;Or. It is a stark, inescapable reminder that the climate is changing, and the wine [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":46,"featured_media":36380,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1158,1157,246,485],"tags":[248,247],"class_list":["post-36791","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-biodynamic","category-organic","category-organic-biodynamic-wines","category-producers","tag-biodynamic","tag-organic"],"contentshake_article_id":"","yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>When the Hills Burn, Who Guards the Vine?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"For the proper artisan winemakers, sustainability is not a marketing exercise. 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