CHÂTEAU BEYCHEVELLE

The 2003 Beychevelle has a rather one-dimensional nose with vestiges of red fruit, singed leather and hung game (though I don't find this bretty like some earlier vintages). The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, again, quite gamey and low in acidity. A bit Rhône-like towards the finish, this is a decent 2003 that is not going to go anywhere. Tasted at the Beychevelle vertical at the property. Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 87 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2023)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a bad thing. Rating: 89 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (May 2006)

Given the performance of this somewhat mystifying but beautifully situated estate in St.-Julien, we might be seeing a resurrection in quality, or at least much more consistency. A beauty in an up-front, supple, sexy style is the generous and savory, dark ruby /plum-colored 2003 Beychevelle. Medium to full-bodied with loads of fruit and glycerin, it is much more approachable than usual, but also generously proportioned and exceptionally well-balanced. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022. Rating: 90 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, www.RobertParker.com (Mar 2005)