DOM PÉRIGNON ROSÉ

Moët’s 2003 Brut Rosé Dom Pérignon exhibits both richness and robustness reflecting its torrid vintage, yet manages to stint neither on primary juiciness nor transparency to nuance; nor does it come off as at all heavy. Lightly cooked ripe strawberry and fig infused with rose hip, licorice, Ceylon tea, heliotrope and leather inform a delightfully forward nose and lush, effusively fruity palate. A tart and seedy edge to the strawberry serves for invigoration; and lobster shell reduction serves for mouthwatering salinity and somehow downright sweet animal savor. There is a hint of tannin, but it is fine-grained and suggestive of structural support. A long, seductively rich finish manages to harbor not just the immediately aforementioned virtues, but also a sense of transparency to floral and tea-like nuances and to virtually shimmering stoniness. This alluring and distinctive beauty should be worth following for at least the next half dozen years. Rating: 94 David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2014)