BILLECART SALMON

Disgorged in October 2018 with seven grams per liter dosage, the 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Louis Salmon derives from the villages of Cramant, Chouilly and Mesnil-sur-Oger, and half of the vins clairs that went into the blend were vinified in older barrels. It's still tightly wound, even after over a year on cork, unfurling in the glass with a delicate bouquet of crisp yellow apple, Meyer lemon, blanched almonds, elderflower and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, deep and searingly intense, it's seamless and complete, with a bracing spine of acidity, a delicate pinpoint mousse, and a long, mouthwateringly mineral finish. This is a serious, built-to-age wine that will really reward patience. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 95+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Sept 2020)

Billecart-Salmon’s elite Blanc de Blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house over two centuries ago with her husband Nicolas François Billecart. The 2007 vintage is only the second release of this cuvée and it is even more sophisticated than the 2006, to which I gave a mighty 19/20 score in my notes! It follows that this wine gains a fulsome 19.5/20 score. Made from a blend of three Grands Crus; Cramant which brings pin sharp acidity to the mix, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, which loads structure and longevity into its frame and Chouilly which anchors this stunning creation into the Côtes des Blancs soil with its devastating minerality, this is a sensational wine. Billecart has augmented its oak imprint from 15% in 2006 to 50% in 2007 and yet I can barely sense this increase given that this wine is in silky, lascivious harmony. It has aged for nearly a decade on its lees and it is ready to go right now. The counterpoint between delicacy, refinement and steely intent is wondrous and every time you let this wine caress your palate it does so with a discreet, but a highly enjoyable pinch of drama on the back end of each sip. As I get older, I drink fewer and fewer bottles of Champagne, preferring to save myself for the wines that really matter while turning down the offer of anything but those wines I know pass my sky-high standards. 2007 Louis is one of only a handful of truly great Champagnes I have tasted in the last twelve months and I cannot recommend it enough. Rating: 19.5 Matthew Jukes, Moneyweek (Apr 2020)