CHINON

The 2009 Chinon Le Clos Guillot from Bernard Baudry comes from the Clos Guillot vineyard (you could probably guess that much), which is located on the limestone slopes east of Chinon again (that is the connecting theme here, after all). This time, however, the vineyard is much, much closer to Chinon; Le Clos Guillot sits on the outskirts of the town, above the Clos de l'Olive (made famous by Couly-Dutheil) and next to a plot named Bel-Air. The Baudry family planted 3 hectares here in 1993, although some vines were planted on their own roots and have largely succumbed to phylloxera (although some, on a sandy plot within the vineyard, survive), and thus the area committed to the vine is lower now. In the glass the 2009 has a deep, cherry-red hue, with a very reassuring crimson, crushed summer fruit rim. The nose takes an hour or so to open up, but is smoky, with a black berry character to it. There follows a stony, rather reserved texture on the palate, taut and crunchy, but without any greenness; exactly what the Loire should be about in my opinion. It is rather sappy, with a dry structure, and a piquant acidity lending the wine a mouth-watering finish. All in all, a very good wine indeed, and on that seems to me to be true to its limestone origins, such is the substance of the wine. There is certainly no rush to drink here; this has years and years ahead of it in the cellar. Rating: 17/20 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Sept 2013)