2009 Domaine Thierry Mortet

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Gevrey Chambertin
ABV 13%

Thierry's village Gevrey, so much his biggest production, is fine, saline, fresh, ripe and with lots of volume - just lovely. A very complete, vinous, mineral wine which does not really have a particular fruit expression (there's nothing shouting Gevrey cassis here) - it's just too sophisticated for that. Great finesse of fruit and flavour. Well done! L&S (Nov 2010)

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A lovely Pinot Noir that has really hit its stride with a bright floral perfume fighting through that slightly-developed gameyness. The nicely woven-in tannins really let the red fruit do most the talking and the firm streak of minerality is what shines on the long finish. Rating: 92 The Wine Gang - (Oct 2015)

2009 was a top red burgundy year with rich, fleshy, velvety wines, and Thierry Mortet’s gorgeous Gevrey gets my vote. Mortet set up his domaine in 1992 and now owns 6 hectares of pinot noir, mostly in Gevrey-Chambertin at the northern end of the Côtes de Nuits and Chambolle-Musigny, a hop and a skip to the south. Enjoy this red’s bold, floral, assertive red berry fruit now with roast pheasant, or cellar it until 2020 when the fruit will have given way to leather and spice. Jane MacQuitty, The Times (Oct 2015)

Very appealing, well-balanced perfumed fruity essence with some earthiness. Juicy and ready and open. Just the job for current drinking. Drinking range: 2014 - 2020 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - (Aug 2015)

Domaine Thierry Mortet

The domaine dates back to 1992, when Domaine Charles Mortet was split between Thierry and his brother Denis, and Thierry set up on his own with just 4 hectares of vines. Today he has 7.3 ha, of which 6 are red and 1.3 white. Only 4.36 hectares are Gevrey or Chambolle, the rest being a small parcel of Marsannay Blanc and regionals - Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc, Aligoté and Passetoutgrain.

Thierry continues to be praised in the French press without ever quite seeming to crack the influential American journalists. It may be simply because he is a bit short of fancy appellations - one little cuvée of Grand Cru would no doubt do his reputation a lot of good - but might also put his prices up, and these remain very modest.

In the vineyard, Thierry has been certified organic since 2007, but really this was just an official stamp on what had been the practices of the domaine since the beginning, and he is working towards biodynamic certification. In the cellar, the grapes are entirely de-stemmed, and given four or five days of cold maceration are followed by the fermentation, with just a touch of cooling to keep the temperature around 31-33C (below 35, at least), and two pigeages a day. The total time in vat can be as little as 17 days. The wines then go into barrel, all second use or older for the Bourgogne, with 30% new wood on the Gevrey, and 50% on the Clos Prieur, for a period of around sixteen months.

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