|Grapes||Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer|
Pungent marjoram and black pepper, bacon fat and rose petal in the nose really project the Gewurz- and red Traminer elements in Deiss’s 2009 Grasberg. But after the cool refinement and seductive polish of the corresponding 2008, this wine represents a stark contrast in its warm spicy palate impingement and near tannic sense of structure. A palpable sense of chalkiness certainly seems to point toward the influence of this austerely chalky, high-altitude site, which used to yield an extremely spare and aggressively mineral Riesling two decades ago, before Deiss converted to faith in field blends. An oiliness of texture and saliva-inducing salinity help to moderate the tendency toward severity in this 2009, which certainly cannot be faulted for lack of memorable personality or palate persistence. I can imagine this still forcefully asserting itself 15 years from now, but I would not cellar any without periodic monitoring of its interim evolution. Rating: 90-90 David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2011)
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|Chelsea||020 7244 0522|
|Kensington||020 7221 1982|
|Barnes||020 8878 8643|
|Chiswick||020 8995 7355|
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Domaine Marcel Deiss
Jean-Michel Deiss's wines are without doubt among the most exciting of the region. His experimental field blends in the wines he likes to call 'level of Premier Cru' are immensely impressive and worth experimenting with - they each have a definite and unique character, and are some of the most fascinating white wines in the world. Deiss may be a contrary character himself, not always in tune with other producers in the area, but the quality in the wines really does speak for what he has achieved. Biodynamic.
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