CHABLIS
2013 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 12.5% |
| Vineyard | Valmur |
Withheld power on the nose, rich citrus and peach, floral, fine and concentrated. Palate is taut and intense, citrus, some toasty oak, but then a pure mineral drive, rich acid, grip and saline length, impressive. Drinking range: 2017 - 2025 L&S (Nov 2015)
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A complete wine, with an immediate openness. Only 26h/ha from these 45 year old vines. The palate is ample with lost of energy. The finish is chiselled and mineral. Rating: 'Exceptional Success' La Revue du Vin de France (Nov 2015)
Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2015)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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