2013 1er Cru Pucelles Domaine Henri Boillot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Riper yet than the village Puligny, more weight and depth. Still bright, firm acidity, minerals more than fruit here, and a sense of raw power only just clothed by the fat. Rich finish where the flavour broadens a little. Drinking range: 2016 - 2022 L&S (Nov 2014)
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Domaine Henri Boillot
A top producer for red and white alike. Henri and his son Guillaume have now moved all the vinification and élevage out of Volnay entirely in order to have all the wine in one place (down on the plain in Meursault). Not so 'folklorique', but a better tool to reach even higher quality levels. After six years working alongside Henri, Guillaume has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2013 - Henri's contribution is henceforth entirely on the whites, but one senses this is really Guillaume's show now. Guillaume's major input on the reds was to end the practice of autmatically de-stemming everything - there is now some use of whole bunches and the wines have gained in definition and energy as a result, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had.
An expressive nose flirts with reduction yet not so much as to impair the attractiveness of the intensely floral nose where additional breadth is present in the form of orange peel, spice, pear and honeysuckle nuances. The beautifully stylish, intense and fleshy middle weight flavors possess good verve and outstanding depth on the impressively rich and persistent finish. This is generous yet quite classy and should also amply repay up to a decade of cellaring. 2021+ Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2015)
The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has the most expressive bouquet with bruised apple, Conference pear and limestone scents soaring from the glass. The palate is clean and crisp with almost piercing citric acidity, superb tension and a clean and precise finish, not unlike the Pucelles that I had just tasted chez Anne-Claude Leflaive. This has a long tail on the finish - excellent. Drinking range: 2017 - 2030 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com (Dec 2014)
More oaky and less open on the nose than the Combettes: "always the least exuberant of these premier crus," notes Boillot. Dense but tightly wound, showing terrific energy to its chewy flavors of lemon oil, flowers and salty minerals. The slowly building, chewy, gripping finish suggests that this wine will blossom with time in bottle. "> Rating: 91-94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sep 2014)
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