2014 Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
After the 'vignes nouvelles', this has a more lifted subtlety to it, and airier grace - but it is true that the difference is not as huge as last year. Brilliant value as ever, as good as many Meursaults. Drinking range: 2016 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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The 2014 Bourgogne Blanc comes from Remi Jobard's original holdings of vine (both young and old vines in terms of planting). It has a clean, perhaps slightly conservative bouquet that perhaps does not quite deliver the same degree of complexity as the "Vignes Nouvelles." The palate is lively on the entry with notes of grapefruit and melon, a little spicier than the Vigner Nouvelles, but just cuts away a little swiftly on the finish. Drink over the next 3-4 years. Drinking range: 2016 - 2020 Rating: 85-87 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com (Dec 2015)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The entire domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients. Remi has two vast new presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and is sure that this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. One of the absolutely top domaines of the Côte de Beaune, and still at prices that are well, well below his qualitative equivalents.
Just when you think Burgundy is getting a tad expensive, some other upward pressures are applied to prices - small harvests and Chinese wine buyers are the current in vogue factors. Luckily for you, there are merchants out there (or here, to be precise) with the nouse to seek out good value even in a region where good value can feel hard to come by. Here's a fine old selection, red and white, all with prices south of £20 a bottle - not necessarily a price to tempt the less discerning away from the discount supermarket but it does mean that us ordinary mortals can still afford to drink Burgundy.
From the classic minerality of Chablis to the rich and comfortable Remi Jobard wine from Meursault, all of the textured joy of white Burgundy is here in this case. Whether aperitif, with dinner, or for washing down a mid-week supper, all occasions can be catered for.
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