|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos du Cailleret|
Here the class and mineral are really leading. More body and a really classy, restrained, grown-up style - a real bar of flashing silver-gilt. Lovely long finish with perfect crystalline definition. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Rating: 91 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2016)
The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Caillerets, from vines planted in 1947, has a very different nose to the Folatières with apple blossom, white peach and apricot scents. The palate is underpinned by a keen salinity, very structured with more mineral/limestone towards the finish. This is another superb white from Thierry, perhaps even more bewitching than the Folatières. Drinking range: 2017 - 2032 Rating: 93-93 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Dec 2015)
This is tense and compact. Shimming cold chalky minerals. Quite reserved. This has tension and precision. A lovely long saline finish with a tingling vibration. Excellent finish. Rating: 19 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2015)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too.
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