CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET

(made from a blend of old and younger vines): Hints of lemon and lime accented by white pepper on the nose and palate. On the light side but with good firming energy. Compared to Ramonet's other cru bottlings this wine comes across as a bit shallow. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 Rating: 88 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2018)

(from Le Grand Clos and Vignes Blanches). This is also very firmly reduced at present and will need additional time to integrate its SO2 addition. There is both excellent power and concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that avoid any sense of heaviness to the citrus-tinged acid spine shaping the seriously persistent finish where a hint of wood appears. This is as good an example of this wine as I can remember seeing. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2018)

Some very attractive clarity of fruit on the nose with an array of peaches, white nectarines, melons and honeysuckles. The concentration is staggering. Very, very deep and dense with great acid drive underlying the fleshy ripe fruits. A citrus, stony finish with honeysuckles, spice meat and stone fruits. Superb. Drink or hold. Rating: 94-95 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Feb 2018)

Lovely delicate aroma, herby citrus with a touch of spice. Complex yet subtle. Super freshness and delicacy – combining intensity with a lightness of touch. Effortless concentration. Lovely balance and excellent freshness. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2018)

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot (Marquis de Laguiche) was affected by the frost, and hence 50% of the fruit was lost. The nose is pleasant with scents of white peach and citrus lemon, although it does not quite have the vigor of the Embasees. The palate is well balanced with a ripe, sorbet-fresh entry of orange and pear, quite energetic toward the finish that fans out in confident fashion. This gets better with acquaintance and deserves a couple of years once in bottle. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Pure but much more closed on the nose than the Folatières, hinting at yellow fruits, subtle brown spices, lime leaf, lemon verbena, white pepper and a faint vegetal aspect. Broad and plush on the palate, showing an almost glyceral texture yet coming across as quite dry and unforthcoming, with a hint of apple from a remaining trace of malic acidity (the wine finished its malo shortly before my visit) as well as some primary fermentation notes and a floral nuance. Finishes with a phenolic dusty quality. Hard to taste today but shows very good potential. I may be underrating this cuvée. For his part, winemaker Faure-Brac likes the diversity of flavors shown by this wine, which he says is a function of the wide range of ripeness by parcel. Rating: 89-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sept 2017)