MOREY SAINT DENIS
2016 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux Domaine Lignier-Michelot
More perk here than the Charmes. It is more intense, with less of a shadow of mineral drive - this is more direct, more clean-cut, but a good weight too. Very appetising, very succulent. L&S (Oct 2017)
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There are plenty of sauvage and earth elements on the softly spiced aromas of plum and dark currant. The big-bodied and ultra-intense flavors possess terrific energy while terminating in a beautifully persistent finish that is shaped by dense but relatively fine tannins on the impressively complex finish. This built-to-age effort will need at least a few years of cellaring first. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)
(from slightly deeper soil than the Aux Charmes; made with 90% whole clusters): Good medium red. Riper and initially more exotic on the nose, but the aroma of black cherry is enlivened by orange zest and mango notes. Juicy and pure but a bit youthfully tight, and the least leathery of these 2016s to this point. Not quite as supple as the preceding wines but boasts lovely freshness and energy and finishes with a firm spine of dusty tannins and excellent length. Lignier told me this wine was a bit herbaceous at the beginning owing to the vinification with 90% whole clusters, but now it's zesty. There's also a sexy minerality that runs through the wine from entry to aftertaste. Lignier took back these vines in 2008, noting that they hadn't been worked well for 20 years. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 91 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2018)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux includes more whole-bunch fruit than the Aux Charmes at 70%. It has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry and sage, later a touch of brine. The aromatics feel quite complex and develop more and more delineation as it opens up. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, just a touch of reduction here but good depth with a little more sweetness and comeliness than the Aux Charmes. This is a well-crafted Morey-Saint-Denis from Virgile. Drinking range: 2021 - 2036 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.
The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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