MOREY SAINT DENIS
2016 Domaine des Lambrays
This will be bottled with the Whites this year - soon in 2017, rather than in March 2018. Lovely and silky - so attractive. Really pretty. So smooth and this flows with a lithe exuberant joy - which is what they have decided to preserve by bottling sooner - taking it out of the wood to preserve the fruit. Delicious silky fruit, loaded with soft warm strawberry. Beautifully done. L&S (Oct 2017)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
(Brouin indicated this was bottled just a few days before I sampled it; no whole cluster). A fresh, spicy and expressive nose reflects primarily notes of various red berries and a dollop of earth. There is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the detailed and fleshy middle weight flavors that terminate in an utterly delicious and appealingly refreshing finish. There is enough underlying structure to suggest that this should be at its best with 5 to 8 years of cellaring. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)
500 bottles produced. Blend of fruit from Les Larreys, Rue de Vergy, La Riotte, Clos Solon and La Bidaude lieux-dits. Quite spicy with a bit of oak on the nose. Much richer than the average Morey. Spicy and appealing. Medium weight. Nice dry end. Rather relaxed and easy. Good polish. Like ginger creams. Not the purest nor the freshest but with great appeal. Drinking range: 2019 - 2028 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2018)
(production reduced by 20% due to frost; totally destemmed; bottled in November): Good medium red. Explosive nose combines red fruits, spices and flowers. Silky but also juicy and fresh, offering immediately delicious red berry and spice flavors and noteworthy inner-mouth energy. Spreads out horizontally on the back end. This is hard to spit even today. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 90 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2018)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which was matured in one-third new oak, has a clean and pure bouquet with hints of blueberry and black cherries, pretty, almost Chambolle-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crunchy brambly red fruit tinged with white pepper and a pinch of soy, fanning out nicely on the easygoing and approachable finish. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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