MOREY SAINT DENIS
2016 Rue de Vergy Domaine Lignier-Michelot
Nose here is generous and ripe - then the first hit on the palate far more restrained ripeness - good feel, but a nice lick of acidity carries the fruit on. In the mouth it gains weight, there's a lovely texture - which slowly fills out. Fruit gets deeper, riper, and broader, but it is super and not heavy in any way. Minerality kicks in towards the end and grips this more and more - lovely, smart kit that will be excellent - but needs a moment.L&S (Oct 2017)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
Here too there is just enough reduction to mask the nuances of the red raspberry aromas along with ample amounts of both earth and floral elements – I would again suggest decanting this for a few minutes. The medium-bodied flavors are sleeker and more mineral-driven while delivering sneaky good length on the saline finish. This isn’t as dense but it’s finer and with better depth as well. In a word, excellent. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2019)
A perfumed, cool and airy array is composed of red raspberry along with ample amounts of both earth and floral elements. The medium-bodied flavors are sleeker and more mineral-driven as well while delivering sneaky good length on the saline finish. This isn’t as dense but it’s finer. A qualitative choice. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)
Another Morey which impressed me came from an old friend of mine, Virgile Lignier and his Lignier-Michelot label. 2016 Morey Saint Denis, En la Rue de Vergy, Domaine Lignier-Michelot showed velvety, dense fruit and uncommon intensity at this price and it was a great example of why this lieu dit is one of the hidden gems in this village. If you like wines with more weight and juiciness, then look no further. Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2018)
(I tasted a pre-bottling sample from tank, as this wine was scheduled to be bottled the evening of my January visit; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright medium red. Darker but more withdrawn on the nose than the old-vines Chambolle, hinting at black cherry, licorice and soil. Quite rich, displaying captivating sucrosité (these vines were picked first) but also lovely punch for a wine with 13.2% natural alcohol. Spreads out nicely to dust the palate on the savory finish. Rating: 89-90 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2018)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy includes 50% whole-bunch fruit this year. It has a well-defined bouquet, darker berry fruit, earthier than say Bruno Clair’s own La Rue de Vergy, but it gains vigor in the glass. The palate is sharp and bright on the entry. I like the tannins here—very fine, slightly chalky with impressive mineralité and harmony on the black tea-tinged finish. It is not a deep or powerful Morey, but it feels long and terroir expressive. Drinking range: 2020 - 2035 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)
Floral and purple notes. The palate is fine, light and elegant. It is pure and edged. Light and focused. It is straight, there is minerality on the finish. I do like this. Light, but so engaging. Drinking range: 2020 - Rating: 16.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2017)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.
The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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