NUITS SAINT GEORGES
2016 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Because of where Yves vines are here this again has some classic 'Vosne side' style and feel. Violets on the nose, some lovely floral dried red petals and interesting perky fruit too. More serious, more intense fruit power in the middle. Firm core, some leather and stones. Tough earthy minerality adds a sense of restraint, but this is broad and richly satisfying. Powerful flavour, nice sleek, soft lines a big 'Rondes' feel, impressive stuff. L&S (Oct 2017)
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Bright red-ruby. Restrained aromas of currant, raspberry, smoke and spices. Pure but very tight and discreet, and yet this wine is clearly more pliant and ripe than the Lavaut Saint-Jacques (it finished its malo last April and was much closer to being a finished wine in January). More density here to support the rather suave tannins. In spite of its deeper-pitched saline soil tones, this wine conveys an impression of weightlessness and finishes with very good spicy lift. Confuron owns a full hectare of vines here but produced just five barrels of wine, the equivalent of less than 12 hectoliters per hectare. Rating: 91-93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Feb 2018)
Here the wood is somewhat more obvious with its layered and ripe nose that displays notes of plum, cassis, earth and plenty of spice elements. The mouthfeel of the concentrated and vibrant flavors is a mix of power and refinement as the mid-palate is relatively supple yet the finish immediately tightens up on the balanced and long but very serious backend. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)
Cask sample. Entrancing aromas with loads of herbal complexity on the nose, crunchy black fruit and a lovely juniper bitterness on the finish. Layered, lengthy finish. Substantial and intense, and will come out of its shell in time. Drinking range: 2024 - 2044 Rating: 17.5+ Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2018)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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