POUILLY FUISSÉ

2016 sur la Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud

EN PRIMEUR

Tasted from Cask. Yikes this is on the acid at the start. Perky, zippy super bright. Yet not tart with it. High toned and super feel. So pure. Really delicious middle. Less serious, more welcoming than the Crays - really good. Bright, yellow agrumes juice. Pure and long. L&S (Oct 2017)

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This too is dominated by phenolic characters though the wood regimen is less evident. The mouth feel of the dense and muscular flavors is also borderline chewy as the dry extract is almost thick though the mildly warm finish is nicely refined, even sophisticated, though I underscore that it is bone dry. 2021+ Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2018)

The 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche is quite giving and charming, bursting from the glass with fragrant aromas of fresh peach, yellow orchard fruit, pastry cream and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and supple, with an expansive, open-knit profile. This should drink well on release. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Aug 2018)

This too is dominated by reduction and lactic aromas at present. The mouth feel of the dense and muscular flavors is also borderline chewy as the dry extract is almost thick though the finish is somewhat edgy and even a bit clipped though I suspect that this is due to the abundant gas. In sum, this is difficult to read today though my instinct is that it will ultimately come together. Drinking range: 2020 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)

(13.2% alcohol; 20% new oak): Bright medium yellow. Deep, smoky yet discreet aromas of ripe citrus and stone fruits and crushed rock. A superconcentrated sweet-salty wine with lovely nectarine, citrus and spice flavors. The wine's thickness of fruit is nicely leavened by harmonious acidity. Some hail here cut production by about 35% in 2016. A wonderfully full, horizontal wine without any excess weight. Finishes sappy, flinty and long. The Barrauds' vines are in the middle of the climat, altitude-wise, and Julien noted that their fruit ripens very quickly and often needs to be harvested early. Rating: 92-93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Dec 2017)

We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.

All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.

As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'

With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.

The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.

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