PULIGNY MONTRACHET
2016 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Nose is nicely poised and restrained. Lovely crispy hard white apple on pallet. Bright but with super weight. Floral too. White pretty, intense flowers. Then something deeper, riper and broader in the fruit make-up. Nice zing and quite fun feel, but there is an unctuous weight to the texture too. 'Plus tendue, plus droit que 2015 mais avec assez de matiere.'L&S (Oct 2017)
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The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a stern and steely bouquet, well defined that tightly coiled at the moment. The palate is fresh on the entry with good tension, perhaps more than some of the Premier Cru Chassagnes tasted alongside. There is commendable length with a lovely tang of orange rind and mandarin towards the persistent finish. What an excellent Village Cru from Boillot. Tasted at the Domaine Direct Tasting in London. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2019)
(bottled in August of 2017) Light yellow. Yellow peach and smoky minerality on the nose, with a note of reduction that's currently accentuating the wine's spicy oak element. Nicely juicy and concentrated, but more saline and austere than the 2017 version. This tactile but very closed village wine finishes with good grip and a hint of toasty lees. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026 Rating: 89 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sept 2018)
(bottled in August of 2017): Light yellow. Yellow peach and smoky minerality on the nose, with a note of reduction that's currently accentuating the wine's spicy oak element. Nicely juicy and concentrated, but more saline and austere than the 2017 version. This tactile but very closed village wine finishes with good grip and a hint of toasty lees. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026 Rating: 89 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2018)
Racy and smoky on the nose with masses of ripe, lime fruit on the mid palate. Long and relatively rich. Maybe not that long lived but great delivery. Drinking range: 2018 - 2023 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2018)
Bottled. Stony and subtle on the nose but not lacking fruit. Dry and tangy with mandarin and mandarin pith giving both freshness and texture. Bone dry and really tangy. Long for a village wine. Drinking range: 2019 - 2023 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2018)
My picks are 2016 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot for its richness and expressive fruit, not least because my score for this wine was only a notch behind the Premier Crus.Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2018)
(Boillot made just 23 hectoliters per hectare overall in his village holdings, as his vines on the Chassagne side of the appellation were affected by frost): Pale, bright yellow. Pure, precise aromas and flavors of white peach and lemon plus a hint of white flowers. Juicy and taut in the mouth, with enticing savory minerality framing the fruit. Finishes tactile, firm and persistent. This cuvée includes Boillot's Bâtard-Montrachet juice in 2016: owing to the frost, he harvested just 20 kilos of fruit from his 20 ares. Rating: 88-90 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sept 2017)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.
With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.
Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.
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