SAINT AUBIN
2016 1er Cru Rémilly Domaine Hubert Lamy
Nice and bright again, but with more weight in the middle too. A tad riper, tad sleeker than the Frionnes - good fruit profile. Yellow flesh and zippy floral hits - really good Burgundy!L&S (Oct 2017)
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There is mild touch of the exotic in the form of mandarin orange and viognier-like scents where additional notes of Granny Smith apples and citrus are present. Impressively dense and vibrant medium weight flavors brim with dry extract that buffers the firm acid spine shaping the mineral-driven finish. Excellent. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2018)
Not much nose but real substance on the palate. Discreet for the moment. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2018)
The 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has a fresh, quite stony bouquet with red apples, cold slate and subtle smoky scents—a more understated nose but clean and precise. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity and good weight, yet it clams up towards the finish and at this stage, does not deliver the riveting complexity and spine-tingling mineralité of recent vintages. Let’s see how this performs once in bottle. It is a very good Saint-Aubin, but maybe it can strive for even more once in bottle. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)
This has a mix of clay, rock and limestone all mixed up and looser – it does not have that clay layer like the Dent de Chien so in a warm vintage it can suffer and get too ripe without water it stresses. But therefore it really shows well in a lesser vintage. Also depends – part of the vineyard get the wind and is always fresher. Wind does play a part here. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 17.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2017)
The En Remilly is a touch more concentrated and textural than the Murgers des Dents de Chien, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus zest, preserved lemon and crème pâtissière. On the palate the wine is supple, flossy and full-bodied, with succulent acids and lovely amplitude and dimension. Drinking range: 2022 - 2033 Rating: 92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Oct 2017)
Aromas of lemon, menthol, crushed rock and ginger, plus a suggestion of spicy oak. Very rich, pliant wine with compelling sweetness and terrific energy to its flavors of crystallized lemon and lime and minerals; there's also a pear note here that reminded me of Chassagne-Montrachet. Conveys a strong impression of sappy density without weight, with the smooth, slowly mounting, gripping finish coating the palate with crunchy fruit and saline crushed-stone minerality. This assemblage of multiple parcels should make an outstanding Saint-Aubin wine. Rating: 91-93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Sept 2017)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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