CHÂTEAU LATOUR MARTILLAC

2017 Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

EN PRIMEUR

Latour Martillac lies on a particularly deep rise of Pyrenean gravel which makes these wines more elegant and high-toned than some of their Pessac neighbours. The 2017 shows off the terroir. It is full of fine, precise dark berry and cassis fruit. There isn't masses of mid-palate fruit weight but it's charming and fresh with an attractive herbal streak. Tannins need time to settle but this should be drinking well from 2022. Drinking range: 2022 - 2035 Rating: 89-90 L&S (May 2018)

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The 2017 Latour-Martillac, which is aged in 40% new oak, picked from 12 to 29 September, contains 13.5° alcohol with a pH of 3.6. I must confess that this is the one property where I encountered some sample variation, a couple showing some oxidative issues. The best sample had a high-toned, gregarious bouquet with cassis, blackberry and boysenberry aromas tinged with sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, compact in style with firm grip but missing the peacock’s tail on the saline finish, as if ending the show before the final act. I will seek to re-taste this at a later date. Drinking range: 2020 - 2036 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2018)

The inky-colored 2017 Château Latour-Martillac is another terrific wine from this consistent estate. Blackberries, crushed rocks, espresso, and ample herbal notes give way to a medium-bodied, nicely concentrated 2017 that has ripe tannin and a focused, firm style on the palate. Give it 2-4 years and it should keep for a decade. Rating: 89-91 Jeb Dunnuck, www.jebdunnuck.com (Apr 2018)

Inky crimson. Lifted, pure cassis aroma with a touch of cassis leaf. Dry, powdery tannins. Fine texture, rather elegant, not for those who want masses of fruit, but harmonious and fresh. Perhaps a little bit skinny. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 15.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2018)

This sports some dark plum and fig fruit flavors allied to a gentle and silky structure. A light licorice snap hint echoes through the finish, with sweet spice notes. The polished finish shows a gloss of toast. Rating: 90-93 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Apr 2018)

The 'tour' of the estate's name is a tower that stands in the main courtyard of the estate - it is all that remains of a 12th century fort. The rest of the fort was demolished and the stones used to built the château sometime in the 18th century. A Bordeaux wine merchant, Edouard Kressmann, purchased the estate in 1871 and the Kressmann family own and run it to this day. In 1930, the striking art-deco inspired label was created. Also in 1930, the word 'Martillac' was appended to the name to avoid confusion with any other Château Latours there might be. They produce both red and white Pessac-Léognan, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot vines being grown on the slightly higher gravel soils of the Martillac plateau above the château and Merlot, Sauvignon and Semillon growing on the clay/limestone land nearer the River Garonne.