GRAHAM

Lush and inviting, with waves of cassis, melted red licorice, plum preserves and boysenberry reduction coursing through, carried by a velvety structure that lets this flow wonderfully. Flashes of apple wood and tar score the finish, which ends with authoritative cut. This is serious. Drinking range: 2035 - 2055 Rating: 97 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Oct 2019)

The 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port was picked from August 28 at Malvedos, though production is one-third less than the previous year. Here the Touriga Franca was particularly early ripening. It has an expressive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, fig jam, dates and touches of clove, aromatics that are very seductive if perhaps just missing the intellectual capacity of the Dow’s. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, a gorgeous Graham’s with hints of espresso and cloves that tincture the multi-layered fruit that veers towards black rather than red towards the finish that fans out without a care in the world. This is perhaps one of the more flamboyant Vintage Ports that is likely to drink earlier than the Dow’s, yet that takes nothing away from what is a beautifully crafted Graham’s. Total production is 5,250 cases. Drinking range: 2030 - 2070 Rating: 95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2019)

Black core with narrow crimson rim. Glorious fruit intensity of tangy wild berries. Sweet elderberry and hedgerow and a touch of oaky/biscuit spice in the empty glass, dark chocolate. Immense concentration of pure fruit, deep layers of velvet, and yet the fruit is fresh. Fills the mouth with luxury. No dried-fruit flavours this year. Deep and endless fruit, the tannins are rich rather than powerful, deep and rounded, so smooth. Mouth-wateringly tangy finish. Drinking range: 2030 - 2070 Rating: 18.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2019)