PULIGNY MONTRACHET

2017 1er Cru Truffières Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

EN PRIMEUR

More focused. Not so tartly peppy - but fresh still. Good energy and great gentle power. Not as broadly intense as the Combettes, but more minerality here. Yet this has nice ripeness to the fruit too - just balanced by that freshness. We asked Lydie where the name comes from and she explained there is a wood here near this plot - with mushrooms - where the name comes from. Up high just below Blagny. Sadly no truffles though! Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S (Oct 2018)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffière 1er Cru sports a vibrant nose of Granny Smith apples, freshly sliced Conference pears and a touch of citrus lemon, tight at first but opening with aeration. The palate is a little richer on the entry than its peers, revealing hints of tropical fruit (guava and passion fruit), although the acidity keeps any exotic inclinations in check. Possibly a later-picked example. One of the earlier drinking Puligny-Montrachet wines in 2017. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Aug 2021)

Quite a deep straw colour. Spicy and sweet on the nose with a bit more richness and sherbet character than the village Puligny. Rich, almost alcoholic finish. Maybe not for purists but definitely for hedonists. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)

All of Jean-Marc Boillot’s wines looked impressive, with the aforementioned Montagny being a must buy, but of the Puligny fleet, I liked both the perfectly balanced 2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot and also the lusty, Grand Cru-shaped 2017 Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru La Truffière. Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2019)

Bright, light yellow. Aromas of yellow peach and spices convey an oilier, slightly exotic impression of ripeness. But chewy, tactile and quite dry on the palate, with plenty of stony minerality to buffer its fruit. Finishing long but a bit phenolic, even disassociated, this wine will need time to harmonize. Boillot is aging this in one new 350-liter barrel and two used 228s, as he wanted to avoid using a feuillette. (13.5% alcohol) Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2018)

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.

With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.

Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.

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