|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
After the Poruzot, this is sweeter and rounder, a calmer experience. Lovely succulent fruit, perhaps not the most intense on the finish but that may be what makes it so attractive today. Astonishing wine from such young vines. L&S (Oct 2019)
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This too is reserved though not quite to the same degree as the Poruzots with its grudging aromas of toasted hazelnut, white fruit compote and plenty of floral elements. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is finer and just as sleek while delivering even better depth and persistence on the chiseled if youthfully austere finale. This is very good and especially so given the young vines. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2020)
Volume and delicacy, richness and reserve. Sweetness and minerality. Actually this is a really good Charmes. Beautiful. Among of the best I tasted. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 Rating: 96 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2019)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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