MOREY SAINT DENIS
2018 Domaine des Lambrays
From Rue de Vergy and Larrets, both above the Grands Crus of Lambrays and Clos de Tart. Very exuberant nose, bright, ripe, with a mineral structure - a lovely village wine, full and juicy. As so often these high vineyards, which have little soil above the rock, do brilliantly in hot vintages.L&S (Nov 2019)
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(from La Bidaude and En la Rue de Vergy, both of which sit high on the slope above Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart). There is enough reduction present to partially mask the fruit though it does seem quite ripe. Otherwise there is good volume, freshness and verve to the delicious middle weight flavors that retain reasonably good delineation on the mildly warm and rustic finale. I like the texture and this should be approachable young if that is your preference. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
Bursting with aromas of ripe berry fruit, spices and a deft touch of creamy new oak, the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Village is medium-bodied, fleshy and open-knit, with a ripe core of fruit and youthfully chewy tannins. This will drink well with minimal bottle age. Rating: 87-89 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2020)
The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from two parcels at the top of Clos des Lambrays where the soil is very shallow, and is completely de-stemmed. It has a bright bouquet of black cherries and blueberry fruit, simple but full of energy. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe tannins and moderate acidity, and lightly spiced with a touch of white pepper on the finish. Enjoy this over the next 6–8 years. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
No whole bunch. 0.7 ha (1.7 acres) high up above the Clos des Lambrays. Blend of fruit from parcels including Larrey Froid (very poor soils and lots of hard limestone) and En la Rue de Vergy. High up so cool and slow ripening. 20% new oak. Tank sample and ready to bottle after Christmas. Classic delicate Morey on the nose, peppery dark fruit and lightly floral. Cool, dark-red fruit, riper and sweeter on the palate, silky texture and finishes with scented freshness. A beauty with both richness and finesse. Tannins already smooth but just right for the shape of the wine. Mouth-watering finish. Comes full circle. Their new technical director Jacques Devauges says the Morey village wine ages very well, if you can resist the temptation to drink it. The 1985 is still very good, apparently. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Dec 2019)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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